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By Ali Koomen, who spent over a dozen years in the car dealership busines, provides her expert insights

Nothing is more mysterious than the actual true market value of any vehicle. Many points, both tangible (automatic or manual, 2 door or 4 door, etc) and intangible (mileage, color, demographics and other ) play a part in determining a value. It truly is an inexact science, but Edmunds.com has put together a very comprehensive data base that attempts to factor in all points, in order to help a buyer or seller determine a vehicle’s true worth.

In order to arrive at these numbers, Edmunds compiles data from many different sources, including info from dealerships, past history data, depreciation rates, demographical preferences and more. This unlikely stew of components gets computed and calibrated so that when a visitor to the website enters information on a vehicle, Edmunds neatly spits out a prediction of the true market value.

However, as anyone who has ever attempted to buy or sell a car knows, the price posted on a vehicle or given online is a suggested price. Edmunds does not claim that if it lists a loaded 2008 Chevy Silverado extended cab truck for $22,950 that people will gladly and willingly plunk down that amount for the vehicle, no questions asked. What it does say is that, based on past data, the amount is a good and fair price.

However, a buyer might have to pay more. It could be that suddenly, everyone in the area is looking for that exact pickup. It could be that the vehicle in question is lichen green, which happens to be the exact color a buyer is looking for. It might be that the truck is in such immaculate shape that it commands extra.

Then again, it could be worth less than Edmund’s prediction. Perhaps the Ford F150 is a more popular pickup in that region than Chevy. There could be a sudden glut of that truck available for sale. It could be any one of a hundred little things that make a person either want to buy a car or to avoid it altogether, and it is for that reason any predicted value of any vehicle must be taken as just that: a prediction.

The true market value information obtained on Edmunds.com can be a great help when attempting to negotiate the price of a new or used vehicle. Simply go to the website, spec out the make and model desired. A nicely equipped 2009 Toyota Camry SE has an MSRP of $30,590. The dealer invoice price on the car is $27,159. Edmunds then suggests that the true market value—what others in my region have paid—is $27,714. These numbers are tools. A buyer could offer $26,500, which is, of course, less than what the dealer paid for it. However, it gets the negotiation ball rolling, and hopefully the dealer will come down, the buyer moves up and again until a price fairly close to $28,000 is agreed upon.

In the end, any vehicle is worth exactly what a buyer is willing pay for it. Fortunately, for both buyers and sellers, this number is not obtained out of thin air, but mutually agreed upon with the assistance of websites such as Edmunds.com

If you have a question you’d like our experts and community to answer, please ask your question at http://forum.iseecars.com.  To start your car search, visit http://www.iSeeCars.com to find over 2 million cars for sale across more than 11,000 websites.

By Ali Koomen, who spent over a dozen years in the car dealership busines, provides her expert insights

A CPO vehicle is not brand new, but it is in such immaculate condition that it is really a misnomer to call it used. While there are many different guidelines as to what qualifications a used vehicle needs in order to be considered as a CPO, the three main characteristics are that the vehicle must be in great condition with low mileage and have original factory warranty remaining.

A ‘dealership certified’ pre-owned vehicle simply means that the place selling the car has checked it out and says it is a good car. A ‘manufacturer certified’ vehicle has gone through a vigorous check-up set by the manufacturer and covers everything from tires to interior to the mechanical components, brakes and more.

“Certified” has a completely different meaning from “guaranteed” but there is a common misconception that a certified car carries a guarantee. However, this is often not the case. Most CPO’s will offer the balance of the new vehicle warranty, which is nothing spectacular as most vehicles with remaining factory warranty transfers those rights to the new owner. Some CPO cars come with a limited satisfaction warranty, above and beyond the standard manufacturer’s warranty. Some may offer free loaners or rental reimbursement on repairs that take longer than one business day. Some CPO’s come with a roadside assistance program, and some dealerships offer special financing on certified vehicles.

So is a certified vehicle that much better than one that is not? That depends. First of all, the price on a CPO will range $500 to a couple thousand (depending on the vehicle) more than an identical vehicle that is not certified. For that, you’ll get peace of mind that comes in knowing the car has been thoroughly checked out, and there may be other perks as mentioned above.

Do keep in mind that it is possible to buy a non-certified used vehicle and have it turn out to be a wonderful car. Sometimes the mileage is just a little too high to qualify. Some vehicles may have too many minor things wrong to make certification. Occasionally the vehicle deserves certification but needs repairs that the dealership cannot afford. If a dealer paid too much on a trade-in or auction unit, there’s less wiggle room on the possible pricing when it comes to reselling the unit. In other words, if a vehicle up for certification was found to need a major brake overhaul that would cost the dealer $500, but it had only allowed a $200 get-ready allowance, the extra $300 would come from the profits made when the unit is sold. At this point it is a judgment call from the dealer whether the work should be done so that the vehicle can get certified and be worth an extra $500 or so, or if the vehicle should be left as is so the dealer doesn’t have to come any more money out of pocket.

Since all manufacturers and dealers have different guidelines for certification, be sure to research CPO vehicles just as carefully as you would a brand new vehicle.

If you have a question you’d like our experts and community to answer, please ask your question at http://forum.iseecars.com.  To start your car search, visit http://www.iSeeCars.com to find over 2 million cars for sale across more than 11,000 websites.

By Ali Koomen, who spent over a dozen years in the car dealership business provides her inside perspective on the car buying process

1. Asterisks and fine print: If the advertised price seems too good to be true, check the asterisks and fine print. Read closely– the price is good only after rebates (such as owner loyalty or college grad) that many buyers can’t qualify for. Or the price is the cost before ‘mandatory’ add-ons such as extremely overpriced Scotch-guarding and paint sealcoat. Or there’s only one unit available at that price. Or. . .or. . .or (Tip: Read all fine print closely.)
2. Trade-in taken hostage: You want to leave but suddenly it’s impossible to get your own car keys back. Common ‘excuses’ are. . . “Our appraiser is backed up”, “Our lot boy accidentally took it to the detail department”, “We’ve temporarily misplaced your keys”. Then the inevitable, “While we’re waiting, let me show you the numbers on the new car.”(Tip: Don’t give up the keys until you’re ready to work the deal.)
3. Undervalued trade-in: dealerships jockey the numbers to give the illusion of a great deal. Don’t be wowed by the $5,000 the new truck is ‘discounted’ if the trade-in worth $6,000 was only valued at $2K. (Tip: Sell the trade outright)
4. High pressure to buy that day: If a salesman says that the price given is ‘only good for that day’, he is lying. The only reason a price would increase in 24 hours is if there was a rebate situation ending that very day. (Tip: If he won’t let you think on it, take your business elsewhere.)
5. Puppy dog close: Once that adorable puppy is taken into a home, there’s no way he’ll be returned to the pound. The same with that new car. The dealership may offer to put the car on a BCA (Borrowed Car Agreement). The salesman knows that once you’ve taken the vehicle home and see how it looks in the driveway, you’ll be loathe to return it. (Tip: Don’t fall for the BCA unless you are serious about the vehicle.)
6. Iffy deal let loose: Similar to a ‘puppy dog close’, this tactic involves high emotion. The deal is worked out, the papers are signed and you’ve taken the car home. Then a few days or even a week or so after buying the car, the F&I department calls to say the original deal didn’t get bought. He’ll need another thousand or two down, or the deal needs to be reworked, meaning much higher payments. By the time the F&I guy calls with the bad news, the neighbors have all seen the new car in the driveway, friends are all envious and your family is in love with it. You’ll probably do whatever possible to keep it and avoid the embarrassment of having to return it. (Tip: Refuse to take possession of the car until the loan has been confirmed.)
7. Higher interest rate than merited. If the finance guy gets the loan ‘bought’ at 9% but tells you the best he could do is 9.75, he’s just made more money on the deal and raised your payments by about *ten bucks a month, or $600 over the life of the loan. *Based on a standard 60 month, $25,000 loan (Tip: Secure financing from your own lender ahead of time.)
8. 2.9% financing! No interest charge for one year! No payments for six months! Each and every one of these fantastic financing and payment options have a major caveat: only those with exemplary credit (scores in the 800’s) can qualify. (Tip: This is a way to get buyers into the store. If you don’t qualify—and few do—beware of the actual terms offered.)
9. Add-ons: Don’t let your guard down once the deal is worked out, because unless you’ve pre-secured your own financing, it’s time to face the dealership’s F&I department. And if you thought the salesman was pushy, just wait until you meet the finance person. He’ll push costly disability insurance policies, life insurance policies, extended warranty deals and more. The dealership makes big money in the financing process and the F&I guys are pushed to sell, sell, sell. (Tip: Tell the F&I guy that you know he has to offer all such policies but you are not interested in any of them.)
10. The dreaded T.O. The salesman is not the enemy. He’s just trying to sell cars. The manager, however, is evil personified when it comes to removing cash from your wallet. He seems like a nice guy, too, which is why there’s a middleman between the salesman and the manager, the T.O. person. If a deal cannot be worked with your salesmen, the manager sends in the big gun, the Turn Over guy, the Closer. The Closer wins more than he loses, and if you though the salesman was a bit pushy, you haven’t seen anything until the closer is let loose. (Tip: If you see the Closer headed your way, run!)

If you have a question you’d like our experts and community to answer, please ask your question at http://forum.iseecars.com.  To start your car search, visit http://www.iSeeCars.com to find over 2 million cars for sale across more than 11,000 websites.

iSeeCars.com, the leading Web 2.0 car search engine providing the best unbiased experience for consumers to search pre-owned cars for sale quickly, easily and smartly, reports the top used car searches for 2008. iSeeCars.com currently enables users to search over 2 million cars for sale across more than 10,000 different
car websites.

The top 10 searched used cars by make on iSeeCars.com for 2008 were:

1. Honda
2. Toyota
3. Ford
4. Chevrolet
5. Nissan
6. BMW
7. Volkswagan
8. Lexus
9. Mercedes
10. Dodge

The most searched for pre-owned car by manufacturer was Honda; Ford was the most searched for American car manufacturer. In the luxury car segment, BMW had the most searches.

The top 10 searched used vehicles by make and model for 2008 were:

1. Honda Civic
2. Honda Accord 
3. Toyota Camry 
4. Toyota Tacoma 
5. Toyota Corolla 
6. Ford Mustang 
7. Ford F-150 
8. Nissan Altima 
9. Jeep Wrangler 
10. Chevrolet Tahoe 

The most searched for pre-owned auto was Honda Civic. Japanese cars from Honda and Toyota occupied all top 5 car searches. The truck with the greatest number of user searches was Toyota Tacoma followed by
Ford F-150.

Consumers on iSeeCars.com also took advantage of other unique features on the website to more easily find quality used cars at great deals.  Car buyers searched cars for sale by owner 6 times more than they did
those for sale by dealer.  There was also a high frequency of searches by users for “moving sale” listings to find bargains — with the idea that cars for sale by private sellers who are moving could potentially
be had for lower prices since the sellers are under a time constraint.

The variety and the amount of search activities performed by users on iSeeCars.com in 2008 definitively shows that iSeeCars.com is addressing a huge need for consumers for an unbiased integrated search
experience focused on helping the car buyers. Evidence that iSeeCars.com is providing a key service for car buyers is the vast number of positive feedback sent in by users about the usefulness and ease of use of the website.

In 2009, we look forward to improving iSeeCars.com and providing additional features to make the website an even better experience for car consumers. Visit iSeeCars.com to search for a car. 

By: Sarah E. Sanuth, an insider in the automotive industry  with many years of experience in the car dealership and repair business

Used car dealerships are very different than many of your new car dealerships; therefore they make most of their money a different way. They seek their inventory from very different avenues.

Your traditional new car dealership will obtain their inventory from a manufacturer, such as General Motors or Ford, on a line of credit. When a used car dealer purchases inventory, they pay cash or finance through something called a “Floor Plan.”

A “Floor Plan” is where a lender gives the dealer a line of credit that can only be used at the auto auction and has a high interest rate and very strict terms. They have to sell their inventory fast in order to make profit or they risk losing the vehicles to repossession, along with many other items the dealership owns. More fortunate dealers have the ability to obtain a normal line of credit from a regular bank. These lines are mostly unrestrictive.

When a new car dealer obtains trades in the process of a sale, they sometimes try to sell the vehicle on their lot, but when they can’t or don’t want to, they bring the car to a dealer-only auto auction. Financial institutions also bring their repossessions to these auctions.

From there, used car dealers bid on these vehicles and the highest bidder wins.

During the month of November 2008, a 2006 Chevrolet Malibu LT with 59,000 miles sold for $6,500 at one of these auctions. According to KBB.com, the value of this vehicle and what you would expect to pay for it at a used car dealership is $10,300. The dealer might have to put a small amount of repairs into the vehicle totaling about $500, which still leaves the potential for up to $3,300 profit on this one vehicle.

Used car dealers are not under any franchise agreement, therefore they can use whatever brand parts they want to repair these vehicles, saving them a vast amount in the repair department.

Now let’s say you’re purchasing this vehicle and have a trade-in. Dealers however, do not give you full boat on that trade-in. Your trade-in is a 2001 Chevrolet Cavalier LS with 100,000 miles and a book value of $1,775 trade-in and $4,680 retail. Again the dealer will not give you $1,775, but rather something closer to $1,000.

This decreases the price of the new vehicle to $9,300, making the profit for the new car $2,300 and you just gave them another $4,680. Now they might not sell the vehicle for $4,680 but rather $3,500-$4,000 just to move it, making the total profit on the sale about $5,800 minus any repairs that may need to be done to the trade-in. If they don’t sell the trade-in on their lot and rather bring it to the auction, which also in the month of November 2008, a 2001 Chevrolet Cavalier with about 100,000 miles sold for $2,100, making the profit now a total of $4,400. If they bring the vehicle to the auction, they don’t need to make any repairs. But if they do, they will see a bigger return on their money.

The older the vehicle is the smaller the profit margin. This is because older vehicles need more to repair them in order to make them salable.

Now if you are financing the vehicle, the dealership might have a relationship with the financial institution where the dealer receives a “kickback.” This is where each month, quarter or year, the dealer receives a small percentage of the interest that you have paid to the bank for bringing the bank business. This is an incentive and essentially profit for the dealer for not doing anything. If you get the financing through the dealership, it is more likely that they will receive a “kick-back.”

Used car dealers also obtain the inventory from two other sources, impact auctions and the public. An impact auction is almost the same as a regular dealer-only auction, except these vehicles have been in major accidents. Most of the components of these vehicles still work; they just have major body damage. The used car dealer will buy the parts at a huge discount and repair it themselves and sell it for full retail. There is a lot more labor that goes into it this way, but the initial cost of the vehicles is much less than the traditional auction.

Many people have vehicles that they don’t want to repair, such as a perfectly good vehicle that has a major issue, like a blown transmission or motor. They will then replace the motor or transmission and sell it for retail. Again, this is more labor than cost.

With these two means, they will spend about $2,000 on the vehicle, $2,000 in repairs (if they own the repair facility as well) and in the end have an $8,000-$10,000 vehicle. However, not all used car dealers go this route. Larger used car dealerships will just use the traditional auto auction.

Some used car dealers also make money in another way that is unique to the used car industry. Very few used car dealerships go this route, because time and headache involved in the process. This is called “Buy Here Pay Here.” This is when a dealer will finance the consumer himself, usually someone who has bad credit who couldn’t get a loan elsewhere. These vehicles are usually a little older, but still have plenty of life left in them. A dealer will purchase a car, such as the Chevrolet Cavalier mentioned above, for $1,000 and with some minor repairs, sell it for retail with interest, or above retail with no interest. The consumer makes a deposit of $1,000 and makes payments until it is paid off. However, if the vehicle is not paid off, then it will be repossessed and sold again to another “Buy Here Pay Here” customer, for what is owed with the addition of storage, repair and repossession fees.

Used car dealers make their money very differently, but there is also a higher risk involved than new car dealers. All investment is out of pocket. But keep in mind when you decide to negotiate with a used car dealer that they also have bills to pay such as rent or mortgage, electricity, heat and salaries. These costs come out of the profit margin.

If you have a question you’d like our experts and community to answer, please ask your question at http://forum.iseecars.com.  To start your car search, visit http://www.iSeeCars.com to find over 2 million cars for sale across more than 11,000 websites.

By Ali Koomen, who spent over a dozen years in the car business

Buying a used vehicle just got a little safer, thanks to a new federal law known as the National Motor Vehicle Title Management System, or NMVTIS. It has been a long time in the making, but within the year it should be fully operational in all fifty states. This system, operated by the Department of Justice, is a nationwide database that provides information that can alert buyers, sellers, insurance agencies and government agencies as to problems in a vehicle’s title.  This type of information is currently not found in car history reports from companies like Carfax or AutoCheck.

Under this law, salvage yards and insurance companies must now report vehicles that have been ‘totaled’. This will help in putting a stop to vehicle cloning (stealing one car’s identity to exchange it with a stolen or totaled vehicle) and title washing (moving a totaled or flood-damaged vehicle’s title from one state to another to remove the ‘salvage’ designation from the title.

Salient points that will be checked under the new law include checking the current and previous state of title, the date the title was issued, the most recent odometer reading, all histories from auto recyclers or junk yard history for the vehicle and insurance company history for the vehicle if totaled.

This system makes it much easier for many businesses and forms of government to scan the vehicle history and make certain it has a clear, clean title before a new one is issued. Each state’s Department of Motor Vehicles will use this invaluable tool to help stop fraud. Law enforcement officials will be able to instantly check if a vehicle involved in a traffic stop, crime or accident has been stolen. Automobile dealerships will be able to acquire complete title histories on both the units available for resale as well as vehicles taken in on trade. Insurance carriers will have easier access in making certain a car is what the insured claims it is, and will help in reclaiming stolen vehicles that may otherwise have gone undetected. Best of all, the law helps protect vehicle buyers, by making sure that the car being purchased is not stolen and that it has not been totaled or has a salvage title.

States participating in NMVTIS have found it to be a very helpful program. One of the most impressive statistics is that the state of Florida was able to use information from the program to crack a car theft ring responsible for over $8,000,000 in luxury vehicle thefts. The state of Virginia has realized a near-17% decrease in vehicle thefts, and participating states overall have saved money that would have otherwise been lost to insurance fraud, cloned vehicles, stolen vehicles, odometer fraud, fraudulently titled vehicles and more.

Until the program becomes fully operational nationwide in January of 2010, states that are currently non-participatory are expected to have a sharp increase in vehicle thefts, title washing and cloning. The states currently not using or reporting to the NMVTIS are Alaska, Connecticut, Colorado, Hawaii, Illinois, Kansas, Maine, Maryland, Mississippi, North Dakota, Oregon, Rhode Island and Utah as well as Washington, DC.

Further information on the program can be found at http://www.ojp.usdoj.gov/BJA or at http://www.nmvtis.gov.  Using this information and supplementing it with car history reports from companies like Carfax or AutoCheck will make it easier and safer to buy a used car.  For more info on car history reports, see our recent article on Car History (CarFax) Reports Explained and How You Should Use Them.

If you have a question you’d like our experts and community to answer, please ask your question at http://forum.iseecars.com.  To start your car search, visit http://www.iSeeCars.com to find over 2 million cars for sale across more than 11,000 websites.

By Ali Koomen, who spent over a dozen years in the car business

The price on any new vehicle is subjective. The make/model/trim level/units available/possible rebates/trade-in value and even the mood of the sales manager can affect the price. While there’s no way to guess if the manager is happy or cranky at any one particular time, there are certain days, time of the month and time of year to get a better deal.  Most of these times apply to getting good deals on used cars as well.

TUESDAY EVENING is one of the best nights to buy. Fewer people go out on Tuesdays than any other night of the week. Dealerships are slower, and salesmen will have more time to give individual attention to each deal.

FRIDAY MORNING is probably the best day to purchase a new vehicle. Most dealerships have the weekly salesmen meeting early on Friday morning. The sales associates leave the meetings either all fired up to make a sale, or duly chastened, if their current units sold number isn’t where it is supposed to be. Either way, the salesmen seem to be more likely to do what they can to sell a vehicle when they’re fresh out of a Friday morning meeting.

MEAL TIME: few customers are in the dealership, half the salesmen are out having dinner and the salesmen that remain at the dealership are the ones that take the job very seriously. If they step out to grab a bite, they’ll possibly miss the next deal. These are the guys that are there to make the sale and will work harder to make sure it happens.

THE FINAL THREE OR FOUR DAYS OF THE MONTH will help garner the best deal. Salesmen vie furiously for Salesman Of The Month bragging rights, and those who are neck-and-neck will be making the final push to grab the title. Managers make premiums on monthly units sold, and if the manager on duty just needs to push a few more units in order to see the next bonus, he may let deals slide through that he normally wouldn’t allow.

END OF MODEL YEAR is often touted as the best time to buy a car, since the dealerships blow out the current year’s models to make room for the new. The problem is that all the makes and models arrive at different times of the year, making it hard to pinpoint when it’s best to catch a deal on the outgoing year’s vehicles. By early summer, most new car dealerships should be able to give an estimated time of delivery on the next model year and most salesmen will be happy to put your name on a call-back list to let you know when the new model of interest starts arriving. When that call comes, go in and look at the older year’s models, and perhaps you’ll find a bargain.

DECEMBER is the best month to purchase a vehicle. The buying customers all but disappear at the end of the year, what with holidays and parties and shopping and the like. Salesmen and managers really welcome the rare warm body that strolls into the dealership during this month, and will work hard to sell the few opportunities that are presented. Also, many dealerships hand out fantastic incentives to the top salesmen and managers at the end of the year. Those close to making their year-end bonus will push that much harder to close a deal.

Just keep in mind that any time the dealership’s traffic is slower, or any time there’s a push by the sales staff to make a bonus, the consumer will often find a better deal.

Once you decide when to buy, here are some additional Tips on Negotiating a Great Car Deal.

If you have a question you’d like our experts and community to answer, please ask your question athttp://forum.iseecars.com.  To start your used car search, visit http://www.iSeeCars.com

By: Sarah E. Sanuth, an insider in the automotive industry  with many years of experience in the car dealership and repair business

When searching for a used vehicle, we are all on the alert for those that have been in major accidents, have had flood damage, or are branded “salvage.” We automatically assume the worst of these vehicles. Any vehicle that has been flood damaged should be avoided, because water and electrical components don’t mix and are very expensive to fix. But “salvage” vehicles are a different story altogether, and could save you a lot of money.

Many salvage vehicles don’t have major mechanical damage, but rather the bulk of the damage is body, or cosmetic. There are salvage dealers, who are licensed by the state, which will sell these vehicles before and after they are repaired.

There is a specific process for repairing a vehicle that is considered a total loss before it can be considered safe and is quite time consuming. The following outlines the process of becoming a repaired “salvage” vehicle.

• The vehicle needs to be deemed a total loss by an insurance company. Many times when an insurance company classifies a vehicle as a total loss, it is quite repairable. They use the overall cost to repair the vehicle as a determining factor in comparison to the overall value.
• The vehicle then needs to be purchased for “salvage value.” Insurance companies will give the owner, or the lien holder, the option of purchasing the vehicle for this value, which can be between $50-500. If neither purchases it, it is usually sold to a salvage dealer.
• From there, the vehicle is brought to a repair facility for a full estimate. The technician/mechanic has to completely run through the entire vehicle and find everything that is wrong with it.
• All the parts the vehicles needs are ordered and the vehicle is repaired.
• The vehicle then needs to be inspected by the State Police. Usually each state has set up dates and locations where these inspections can take place. All documentation for the repair needs to be submitted with the vehicle.
• The State Police then go through the entire vehicle to ensure that it has been repaired correctly and safely, and that every part that has been put into the vehicle was purchased, not stolen.

Once this has all taken place, the state will allow the vehicle to be registered and re-titled. For a vehicle like this, there are two great advantages:

1. The vehicle is usually in better condition than a vehicle that hasn’t been in this kind of accident. This is because the mechanic is licensed by the state, and now the state is reviewing their work; and if something is wrong, they could have their license suspended or lost altogether.
2. Whether a mechanic does the work before you purchase the vehicle, or you have it done after the fact, you will save a lot of money. Repair facilities will give discounts when a large amount of work is done like this.

So the next time you want a great vehicle, and come across one that is salvage, don’t be afraid of it; you will be getting a great vehicle and saving a lot of money at the same time.  Of course, make sure you do your due diligence and have it inspected by professional mechanic.  For information and tips on the inspection process, see checklist for used car inspection and test driving a used car.

If you have a question you’d like our experts and community to answer, please ask your question at http://forum.iseecars.com.  To start your used car search, visit http://www.iSeeCars.com

By Ali Koomen, who spent over a dozen years in the car business

While haggling over the price of merchandise makes most Americans uncomfortable, in many mid-eastern and Asian countries it is considered a normal part of doing business. In fact, in some markets it is almost an insult to the shopkeeper if one does not engage in some good-natured bickering before mutually reaching a price.

It is not in our culture to haggle over prices. Sure, we may ask for a ‘freebie’, like no delivery fee when we buy a washer-dryer combo, but it’s almost an embarrassment to haggle a price —except when it comes to buying an automobile. Could you imagine going into a nice furniture store, pointing out a thousand dollar sofa and then telling the owner: “I looked it up online and I know you paid $600 for it, so I am prepared to give you $650 because fifty bucks is more than enough profit.” It would certainly take chutzpah to do that, but conversations similar to this take place every day at car dealerships across the country.

If back and forth haggling is unsettling to you, a no-haggle dealership may be the best place to buy a car. The sticker posted on the vehicle is generally a fair price somewhere below the MSRP (Manufacturer’s Suggested Retail Price.) No haggling, no bickering, the price is what it is. The no-haggle price allows the consumer to get a fair deal and it allows the dealership to make a profit. The dealership still sets the prices, so the discount given will vary from car to car, just as it would on a regular lot. It’s easier than the standard way of purchasing a car, but in many cases a better deal could be made at a regular lot. However, dealing with a regular dealership involves a lot of time-consuming back and forth haggling. In today’s world, many do not have the luxury of the time needed to negotiate a traditional deal, while others are adverse to the pressures of such a purchase. For those people, the no-haggle lot presents a simple way to buy a car.

Saturn, a division of GM, is well-known for having no-haggle lots. It’s easy for Saturn dealerships to do so, as GM restricts the number of Saturn dealers in any given area. However, many other brand dealerships have turned to the no-haggle policy. An example is Autonation which is the largest car retailer in the U.S. with over 200 dealership locations, sells new and used cars at fixed, no-haggle prices. Carmax is another large automotive retailer that offers up-front pricing on used cars; Carmax has close to 100 used car superstores throughout the U.S.

Keep in mind that no car dealership sells any vehicle without making some sort of profit, and the no-haggle places are certainly no exception. While the price of the vehicle is a given—after all, it’s posted right there on the windshield—the dealership has all sorts of other ways to make money off any deal. One common trick is to undervalue the trade-in or to charge a higher interest rate than merited. Dealers also make a lot of money by selling unnecessary insurance policies and extended warranties and/or aftermarket equipment and add-ons.

The best way to come out ahead at a no-haggle lot (or any dealership, for that matter) is to sell the trade outright, obtain financing ahead of time from your own lender and by saying no to all pressures to buy additional policies and equipment. That’s how the dealerships juggle numbers, and without that, it’s quite easy to see if you’re getting a good deal.

However, if you do enjoy negotiating and prefer to buy a car at a traditional dealership, see tips on negotiating a great car deal. Here’s more tips for negotiating a used car.

If you have a question you’d like our experts and community to answer, please ask your question at http://forum.iseecars.com.  To start your used car search, visit http://www.iSeeCars.com

By: Sarah E. Sanuth, an insider in the automotive industry  with many years of experience in the car dealership and repair business

There comes a time that we all ask ourselves whether or not we should sell the vehicle we have. Have we had it long enough? When will it start to give me problems or even possibly leave me stranded? Is the mileage too high?

Unfortunately, there is no clear cut answer to this question, as there are always exceptions to the rule.

Two things are for sure. If the vehicle is pre-1996 and/or over 200,000 miles; it needs to go. Vehicles that typically fit into this criterion are long over-due. Age is a big factor regardless of the mileage driven because environmental factors are starting to take its toll. Items such as salt and water start to eat into the frame and cause frame or component rot, which you may not always see. Higher mileage, such as 200,000, also receives similar effects, regardless of age because of the time it sees driving. Transmission and other important parts of the vehicles will start to fail, making for a hefty repair.

With those two items aside, the 7 year mark (when a vehicle has reached the age of 7) is when you should be at least thinking about selling it to purchase a new one.

Many financial institutions will not finance a new vehicle for more than 7 years. This is because when the vehicle has reached the age of 7, frame and component rot tends to creep in. If they know the vehicle is going to start to fail on a level that could hinder its operation or “fitness for a particular purpose,” the borrower might give up on the payments altogether, “It doesn’t work anymore, why should I have to pay for it.”

There are financial institutions that will finance a used car, however these companies have stringent guidelines on how long and what year models; this is for the same reasons as above.

Of course, if you have a vehicle that is older than this, and aren’t seeing the effects of age; you just may have lucked out. But keep in mind that this is not something you can avoid. Steel rots after time, and there is nothing that can change it; it can only be prolonged.

Each vehicle will rot or fail at different times. We all drive over different roads and are exposed to different environmental factors.

Keeping the undercarriage of your vehicle clean on a regular basis will slow the process down, especially if you live in a region where there is heavy salt usage on the roads, such as in winter. (I have seen a 2003 vehicle is the Northeast in which the alternator disintegrated during a transmission repair because of heavy salt use.)

Once your vehicle starts to creep on the 7 year mark, you should make an effort to carefully inspect certain areas of your vehicle. This will help determine whether or not you should sell it and purchase a new one.

Doors

Open each door of the vehicle and check the bottom-most part of the door (where it would meet the bottom part of the door jamb of the door frame.) Check for water damage. Even though doors appear to be sealed, water will get in overtime and causes the bottom of the door to rot. Check all doors, including any hatch or trunk lids.

If you do start to notice rot in this area, drill a small hole at the bottom of each door so that water can escape before it causes more damage. This will buy you some time.

This area can be fixed, but is still only prolonging the inevitable. The most comprehensive way to stop this is to purchase a new door, which in turn will equal obtaining a new paint job, which can get expensive.

Undercarriage

Check for any holes or large rust spots (you may see large flaking rust spots) on the frame. Frame damage is very expensive to repair. Cars typically need to be coated on the undercarriage at least once every year to prevent this damage, but it is not standard practice and many people don’t know that it is part of preventative maintenance.

Newer cars tend to rot faster than some of the older models. This is for reasons of quality. As time has gone on, car manufacturers have been looking for ways to produce the same product with less overhead. The steel that these vehicles are made of isn’t as thick, which means it needs less time to rot.

Regardless of whether or not your vehicle is old, there are signs that signal problems ahead. Any time you have reoccurring mechanical failures, you should start to consider selling it. One small thing after another is only a signal that something bigger may be coming.

When you’re ready to sell your car, see tips for increasing the value of your used car before selling it.

If you have a question you’d like our experts and community to answer, please ask your question at http://forum.iseecars.com.  To start your used car search, visit http://www.iSeeCars.com

By: Sarah E. Sanuth, an insider in the automotive industry  with many years of experience in the car dealership and repair business

While CarFax can offer some insight on whether a used vehicle has been in an accident, it is never absolute. Used cars will usually show signs of an accident or body work. However, if you can’t find any evidence that an accident occurred or body damage was repaired, it usually means one of two things.

1. The used car was never in an accident.
2. The repairs were done flawlessly, which should have no effect on the overall value of the vehicle.

The following are tips to help you determine whether a used car has been in an accident.

• Alignment of body panels. Check the gaps of each of the body panels to make sure that there isn’t an excessive gap. They should each be symmetrical in the sense that the gap isn’t bigger at the top of the panel as opposed to the bottom. Each side of the vehicle should be the same as the other.
• Open and close all doors. Every door should open with ease and should not rub or hit up against any panel or part of the body in the process. You should not have to do anything special, such as lifting or pushing down, on any doors so that they open or close.
• Check the paint. When a vehicle has to be repainted, the paint is mixed on an as needed basis. Regardless of the quality of the paint, or the mixing procedure; no two colors will be exactly the same. Make sure every panel has an even, uniform color. You should also be looking for any paint drips or runs.
• Check the door jambs, under the hood and any rubber gaskets for overspray. Even the most skilled body technicians will leave some overspray.
• Look in the trunk. When body work is performed, a lot of sanding takes place. When looking in the trunk, check under everything and in any crack for dust. It is almost impossible for anyone to remove all the dust associate with body work.
• Look for tape lines. Masking tape is also used for painting cars. Check to see whether or not you see any straight tape lines, indicating that an area was taped off to prevent overspray. Areas to check would be windows, handles and wheel wells.
• Check the curves. Cars have curves, and it is extremely difficult to seamlessly follow all of them. Make sure that there is no indication that a curve, or rounded area, has been tampered with to make it less fluid.

There are always exceptions to the rules. If a vehicle appears that it has had work done to the bumper, it is not always a cause for concern. By the time a vehicle reaches the age of 4, it will have had some repair to the bumper cover. This does not mean that it has been in an accident as they receive the brunt of what flies up from the road and constantly have dings, dents and scrapes.

The next time you shop for a used car and want to know whether or not it has been in an accident, follow these simple tips and you will help ensure that you have purchased an accident-free vehicle.

For more tips and advice on what else to look for in inspecting a used car before you buy, see Tips for Test Driving a Used Car and Used Car Inspection Checklist.

f you have a question you’d like our experts and community to answer, please ask your question at http://forum.iseecars.com.  To start your used car search, visit http://www.iSeeCars.com

By: Sarah E. Sanuth, an insider in the automotive industry  with many years of experience in the car dealership and repair business

With the economic down-turn, many consumers are looking to save money and cut corners when possible. Up until recently, especially with the great financing deals automakers were offering, many consumers were trading their vehicles in every three years or so, but not getting the full potential out of their vehicle. Now that credit options and our own pockets have tightened, it is forcing many of us to look at extending the life of our vehicles.

Of course there are many people who don’t want to have to deal with taking care of or maintaining things, but vehicles are no different than a house or home, and it doesn’t have to be expensive.

First and foremost, find a mechanic who charges reasonable rates. In this economic time, look for a mechanic who charges no less than $50 an hour and no more than $75. A mechanic who charges too little can draw you in on the price and not provide quality while a mechanic who charges more than $75 an hour is charging too much.

The following are some tips you can take to ensure that you extend the life of your car:

• Check your oil often. Many drivers don’t realize that a new vehicle can burn as much as one quart of oil every 1,000 miles with the average vehicle only holding about 4-5 quarts. With that said, you could burn as much as three-quarters of your oil before your next oil change. Check it, and check it often.

• Have your oil changed on time. While every 3 months or 3,000 miles has been the standard to having your oil changed, it may be outdated. Check your vehicles owner’s manual for the manufacturer’s recommendation. The next time you get an oil change, ask the person providing the service exactly what kind of oil was used, because some types don’t need to be changed for up to 15,000 miles. Don’t just get an oil change, get an L.O.F.; Lube, Oil and Filter. But if you’re ever unsure, always stick to the “every 3,000 miles” rule.

• Make sure other fluids are topped off; such as antifreeze/coolant, brake fluid, power steering and transmission fluid.

• Transmissions and cooling systems need care, too. Many drivers forget that they have a transmission or radiator that may need servicing as well. If you don’t recall when the last time was that you had these components serviced, you should think about getting it done. This is not a maintenance issue that needs to be done all that frequently, but nonetheless, still needs to be done and is sometimes just a matter of getting a transmission flush. Check your owner’s manual for recommendations and get it done.

• Tires. Tires not only need to be inflated to the proper PSI for gas mileage, but help lengthen the life of the tires themselves and provide safer driving conditions, while reducing the wear on other components of your vehicle.

• Winter means special care. If you live in an area where there is salt used on the roads in winter, it is best to have certain items performed at the start of the season. Have the undercarriage of your vehicle undercoated. This will stop the salt from causing the steel underneath to rot. Salt not only cause steel to rust or rot, but can cause other components to fail as well. So make sure you wash your vehicle regularly in the winter as well.

• Keep the body looking good. Make sure that you wash your vehicle regularly year round (never forget the underneath and wheel wells) and apply a wax every once in a while. If you keep the paint in good shape, you are also keeping the metal underneath in good shape (which will also maintain its overall value.)

• Check for updates. Many times manufacturers will come across something that will extend the life of a component of your vehicle, such as an updated type of transmission fluid. This information is not public, but the next time you have your vehicle serviced make sure the technician checks AllData for such updates. If the mechanic does not have AllData, it is best to go somewhere where they do.

• Check recalls. While many vehicles will be fine, it is still best to check every once in a while to see whether yours has had a recall for any reason, as these are free repairs. Check http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/recalls/recallsearch.cfm.

• Once a year have your vehicle completely run through by a mechanic. Many mechanics will provide this service for a small fee, usually under $100. By doing this, you will know a time frame of what repairs or issues needs to be addressed, and be able to take care of them before it is too late or they cause damage to other areas of the vehicle.

When all is said and done, you will have spent much less than what it would have cost to finance a new vehicle. Many of the items above can be done yourself, as long as you have the capability of performing them. If you are ever unsure, it is always best to have a qualified mechanic perform these tasks.

Keeping your vehicle running smooth and keeping up with cosmetic items not only extends the life of your vehicle, but will help maintain the overall value of it when it does come time for you to purchase another vehicle.

If you have a question you’d like our experts and community to answer, please ask your question at http://forum.iseecars.com.  To start your used car search, visit http://www.iSeeCars.com

By: Sarah E. Sanuth, an insider in the automotive industry  with many years of experience in the car dealership and repair business

Auto Insurance is a necessity to every person who owns a vehicle, but it doesn’t have to be a costly mistake. There are many parts to having the proper coverage that are often overlooked or under-examined.

Know your Driving Record

Your driving record is a key factor in determining the cost of your insurance. If you know your driving record is going to improve, wait until it does before you purchase insurance, it can save you a lot of money. But if you have insurance and you know your driving record will improve before renewal, make an effort to get quotes before renewing with your current insurance company.

Coverage

Your first step is to know what your states minimum requirements are on coverage. Next assess what kind of coverage you really need, or feel the safest with having. Limits are the most important. While you may have coverage for bodily harm set at $25,000; this might not be enough in the event that you are in an accident and someone gets hurt.

In the event the damage exceeds the limits that you have set in your policy, or are sued beyond those limits, the remainder is your responsibility to pay. This means that any assets that you happen to have can be attached until the balance is paid. However, if you don’t have assets, excessive coverage isn’t necessary.

The average car on the road is worth more than $20,000. So that should the lowest you go on property damage.

Deductible

Make sure you choose the proper deductible. Many times consumers choose a policy based on price but get a deductible that is too high, therefore hindering their ability to have their vehicle repaired. Make sure that you can afford to pay the deductible in the event that you need to use the insurance.

Cost

With all coverage limits the same, compare the pricing difference between many different companies. Usually the smaller the company, the higher the price for the insurance, but the better service you will receive. But regardless, make sure you choose a company that will provide you with the most comprehensive coverage and the best service.

A great website that will compare rates for you in one step is www.insweb.com.  Also check out www.InsuranceQuotes.com if you want a quick insurance quote.

Consumer Reviews

Do a full assessment of the company you are planning on using before you purchase the auto insurance. Service is a big part of having insurance and if many customers have been left in the dark, you probably will be too. You don’t want to be paying an insurance company if they won’t cover a claim.

You can check a few different sources to get information about an insurance company. You can check your states Department of Insurance. This site should give you a wealth of information on their customer satisfaction ratings. Another website with this information is J.D. Power and Associates at www.jdpower.com.

Another area to check, especially during hard economic times, is the companies Standard and Poor’s rating at www.standardandpoors.com. This rating will give you information on the company’s ability to pay a claim.

Retain your Rights

In the event something happens and you are not at fault in the accident, make sure you retain your rights to sue. Some insurance companies will require you to give up this right to be covered. However, if there is an event that isn’t covered properly by the other persons insurance, you may need to sue them to recoup those costs. You don’t want to be left without that ability.

Before you sign, make sure that you have covered all your options and researched them as much as possible so you are making an informed decision and receiving the best coverage and service.

If you have a question you’d like our experts and community to answer, please ask your question at http://forum.iseecars.com.  To start your used car search, visit http://www.iSeeCars.com

By: Sarah E. Sanuth, is an insider in the automotive industry  with many years of experience in the car dealership and repair business

When it comes time for us to purchase a used car, we all want to try to get the best deal. So how do we ensure that we are going to be taken seriously and get what we want?

Both used car dealerships and new car dealerships offer used vehicles for sale; but both approach the situation much the same. Adhere to following the below tips and you will be on your way to better negotiation when you purchase your next used vehicle.

Dress for Success

Yes, you will need to dress the part of an informed, intelligent car buyer. You don’t want to show up wearing a T-shirt and jeans, nor do you want to wear a suit. The more professional you dress, the more serious you will be taken.

Salesman will read what you are wearing and play upon it. If they see that you don’t care about your appearance they will assume that you don’t have the money or ability to purchase either a new or used vehicle. If you show up wearing diamonds and a suit, they will assume that you have all the money in the world to spend.

Familiarize Yourself

Take the time to review documentation from a previous car you purchased. Make note of any mistakes that were made during that process, or items you paid too much for; and bring that knowledge with you. It’s like taking a test in school. The more you study the better the grade you will receive.

Research

Research the dealership and the vehicle you are interested in purchasing. Knowing more about what you are dealing with arms you with knowledge to come out on top.

Keep Test-Driving Separate

You don’t have to buy the same day you test drive. Simply tell the salesman that you are interested in test driving the vehicle, but are looking at a few different cars. Test-drive the vehicle and then leave the dealership; after all you have another vehicle you need to look at.

Never express Urgency

You should never buy a vehicle in a rush, and never tell a salesman that you need it now. If they know you need something now, they will play into that by trying to put you in something NOW.

Know what it is Worth

Check car classifieds sites such as autotrader.com or iSeeCars.com for advertised prices on used vehicles you are interested in purchasing. Kbb.com and NADA.com will also give you a guideline of what you would expect to pay for the vehicle.

Don’t Get Emotional

Think of the whole endeavor as a business deal. Never get excited. Salesmen play on emotions and will exploit it.

Prices aren’t set in Stone

The asking price is just that, an asking price; there is always room to move. Keep in mind that used car dealers have less room to move than new car dealers.

Don’t Be Afraid

Don’t be afraid to low-ball. Throw a number out there that you are willing to pay for the car, never use the term up-to. If you are ever asked up-to, stick to the same number you threw out there.

Play One Dealer against the Other

If you have found a better price somewhere, go back to one of the dealers that didn’t do so well price wise and politely tell him that you have found the vehicle for $X, and ask if he can look at the numbers and beat that price.

Distance Buying

Distancing yourself from the car buying process can make for better negotiations. Other than test-driving a vehicle, there is no real necessity for you to enter the dealership until you are ready to sign the paperwork. This will help you make an objective, sound decision.

Keep Prices Separate

If you are going to finance your next used vehicle, don’t fall into the whole payment game. Negotiate the price of the vehicle itself as one number. Payments and Interest are another negotiation altogether.

Secure Financing before Shopping

Check sites such as BankRate.com for lenders, and interest rates; you could also try your local credit unions. Knowing the amount you can finance before shopping helps make a starting point for offers you will make on a vehicle. This will also help you avoid getting into a term or interest rate the dealer might try to impose on you.

Warranty

Used vehicles almost never come with a warranty, or at least any long term warranty. Make sure that you at least try to walk away with a minimum of a 30 day/1,000 mile warranty. Not all companies will offer a warranty, you must ask for it; but the standard is between 30 days/1,000 mile and 3 months/3,000 miles.

If you have purchased a vehicle that doesn’t have a remaining manufacturer warranty or extended warranty, start looking at obtaining an extended warranty.  For more information on extended warranty, read the article on tips on buying extended car warranty.
If you follow the tips above, you will be on your way to making a more informed decision about the purchase of a used vehicle, and ensuring that you get the best possible price.

If you have a question you’d like our experts and community to answer, please ask your question at http://forum.iseecars.com.  To start your used car search, visit http://www.iSeeCars.com

By: Sarah E. Sanuth, is an insider in the automotive industry  with many years of experience in the car dealership and repair business

An auto warranty gives us a certain kind of assurance, or peace of mind that if something goes wrong with our car, it will be taken care of, even if it means that we have to pay a little extra for it. While new cars always come with a warranty, a used car almost never does unless it’s a recent model (new cars typically come with a 4 year or 50,000 mile warranty, whichever comes first); and it’s best to explore your options before you dive right in.

The market is flooded with companies that will offer aftermarket extended warranties for any used vehicle. Normally, all you have to do is provide them with the make, model and VIN number and you are returned a quote on the vehicle.

When shopping for an extended warranty for your vehicle, here are some things to consider:

• If your vehicle is pre-1998 or the car has more than 140,000 miles, most extended warranty companies will not cover you.
• your car usually has to be driven less than the average yearly mileage (some companies will only warranty your car if you drive less than 10,000 miles a year.)
• It is often cheaper to get an extended warranty before an existing warranty lapses.
• On average, an extended warranty will cover 11,000 to 15,000 miles per year
• Coverage can be obtained for between 1 and 5 years (depending on the age and mileage of the vehicle.)
• Coverage will cost between $1500-3500 per year and deductibles are typically between $0 and $100.
• Certain vehicles are never covered; such vehicles include some high ticket Mercedes’, Land Rover’s, Ford Contours, and most performance cars like Porsche’s.
• Dealers mark-up their warranties. It may be cheaper to purchase a policy independent of the dealer (If you are at a Ford dealership, you can request a “Ford” warranty. A dealer may tell you they only offer aftermarket warranties because they make more money on them.)
• Most extended warranties are not transferable, coverage ceases the moment you sell the vehicle. A few companies will allow you to transfer it, which can be a great selling point if you decide to sell prior to coverage ending.

Before you shop for an extended warranty, you should first consult consumer reports at www.consumerreports.org for the most common repairs to the vehicle that you have (you should consult this when purchasing the vehicle as well.) There is a cost to use this service (about $26.00 for 1 year.) If you don’t want to pay for this service, you can also find similar info at Edmunds.com or simply Google your year, make and model with “common repairs”. This will tell you what it would normally cost you to repair a vehicle in a given year period and what you will need to have covered with an extended warranty.

Then compare the cost of the extended warranty and any co-pays or additional costs against what the repairs would cost without the warranty. If the repairs would normally be less or about the same without the extended warranty, it’s probably best to take that money and put it aside for those repairs.

Keep in mind that not all warranty companies are the same, and many of the conditions for covering a part or breakdown can be very different between one and the other.

ALWAYS READ THE FINE PRINT

Many extended warranty companies will boast their service will save you money and they offer the most comprehensive coverage. But just because they say it, doesn’t mean it is true.

Always research a company before you purchase a warranty. Check consumer complaint websites such as complaints.com and see what others are saying. The Better Business Bureau Online also offers a Consumer Safe Shopping List (visit bbb.com and search for the company name) .

While there are companies out there that do offer very comprehensive coverage, many don’t; so beware. Reading the area of the contract that will tell you what is, or isn’t covered is key. Some companies will tell you that transmission repair is covered. However, they cover only certain parts of the transmission (usually parts that will never wear.) Mechanics know that it is cheaper to just replace the entire transmission than it is to rebuild one, and less time consuming. Many extended warranty companies will force you to have a transmission rebuilt, which means more time and more money.

Remember, wear and tear and regular maintenance items aren’t covered, unless coverage is purchased separately. This includes everything from brakes and oil changes, to transmission flushes and tune-ups.

Warranty companies use “book times” for how long a repair should take. However, “book times” are under the most perfect conditions. In many cases, car owners are forced to pay the difference on the bill of what the warranty company won’t pay.

There are also some extended warranty companies out there that don’t make good on their contract, and rather will deny a claim on a small technicality. Others will also have it hidden in there that there isn’t just a co-pay, but rather only a certain percentage of the repair is covered.

The warranty company’s procedures are very important. If procedure isn’t followed properly, any repair resulting could not be covered, regardless of whether or not the part or component is covered. Make sure you make note of these procedures and follow them every time you have an issue.

When it comes time to purchase an extended warranty, make sure that you aren’t purchasing based on cost, but rather coverage. A cheaper policy will cover less and cost you more in the long run.

If you have a question you’d like our experts and community to answer, please ask your question at http://forum.iseecars.com.  To start your used car search, visit http://www.iSeeCars.com  

By: Sarah E. Sanuth, is an insider in the automotive industry  with many years of experience in the car dealership and repair business

Vehicle history reports have become a staple in the used car buying process. Most of us request a “Carfax” report not knowing what it will or could contain. Of course we all want to know whether or not the vehicle we are about to purchase has been in an accident or involved in the floods, and $29.99 seems like a small fee for peace of mind. But before we rely on such a report, we need to understand its limitations, and what the information in it really means.

These are the following areas in which Carfax claims are included in each report:

Title information, including salvaged or junked titles:

This information is available to anyone free of charge. A simple call to the Department of Motor Vehicles in the state in which the vehicle is registered/titled in will tell you this. Junk yards are required by law in some states to report, or hand over the title when a vehicle has been junked. Salvage vehicles have to be inspected by the state in order to be legal and obtain a salvage title.

Flood damage history:

This information is also free. It can be obtained from the National Insurance Crime Bureau at NICB.org. This website also compiles information about stolen and total loss vehicles and will allow you to check up to 5 VIN numbers per day.

Total loss accident history:

If the used car you are researching has been in a total loss accident, and is not listed in NICB, then it most likely will not be listed on a history report either. When vehicles have been deemed a total loss by insurance companies or the police department, the VIN gets branded to alert anyone of such incidences. However, if the police or the insurance company is not involved when this happens, you will not see this listed in any report.

Odometer readings:

While odometer reading may seem important, the most important issue when it comes to odometer reading is that the mileage is correct. Calling the Department of Motor Vehicles will tell you whether there is evidence that it has been tampered with by the branding of odometer discrepancy which will be stated on the title.

Lemon history:

Lemon usually refers exclusively to new cars. Most states do not classify any used car as a lemon, and therefore any “lemon laws” that your state may have will not apply here. However, having a vehicle that has, or has had problems, does not classify it as a lemon. If a used vehicle is up for sale and has at least 30,000 miles on, the probability of it having more than the normal quirks of that specific make or model is rare. However, “lemon” vehicles have to be branded on the title that they are in fact “lemons.” A simple call to the department of motor vehicles can provide you with this information as well.

Number of owners:

This information is also available through the Title Division at the Department of Motor Vehicles. As long as you have the VIN number, you can find out how many times the title for that vehicle has been issued, etc. If the vehicle has been titled in a different state prior, they can tell you which state it was titled in and a call to that states department of motor vehicles can provide you with the rest of the information.

Accident indicators, such as airbag deployments:

Again, if the vehicle was not inspected by an insurance company or the police didn’t respond to the accident, this information will not be listed on the vehicle history report. To find out this information, all it takes is an inspection by a qualified mechanic. When items such as airbags go off, they can’t be repaired, but rather need to be replaced. A look at this part will tell you whether or not it has been replaced.

State emissions/inspection results:

Emission and inspection information is very rarely included in a history report. There are some states that do report this information or allow companies such as Carfax access to their database, but if the information isn’t reported, you will not have that information.

Service records:

Unless the repair facility that worked on the vehicle kept record and reported those records through the database, they won’t show on a history report. Most of the time, the only service records that will be listed for a vehicle is something that has been repaired due to a manufacturer recall as this is mandated by the National Traffic and Highway Safety Administration.

Vehicle use (taxi, rental, lease, etc.):

If the vehicle has been used as a taxi, rental car or other, the owner of the vehicle at the time would have been on the title records. You can request this information from the department of motor vehicles as well.

Can I Get Most of the Information from the DMV?

Most of the information that you would want from a car history report may not be there, as the information on all these items are not logged or reported. The most pertinent information that you need would be title history, one call to the Department of Motor Vehicles can give you most of this information.

For the basic information, most DMV’s will provide you with the information free of charge over the phone. However, if you want the detailed information such as number of owners, service and emissions records, vehicle use and accident indicators, a Title Search application will need to be filled out and a small fee paid. The fee is dependent on the state, but varies between $5-30.

If from there you receive a report back that lists accidents, you may also request from the DMV any accident reports associated with it. Again, there is a small fee that is dependent on the state; on average is $1 per page. Call your local Department of Motor Vehicles for more information. Also visit the state DMV website to see if there’s any online access to the information.

How should you use these reports?

Vehicle history reports should only be a means to rule a vehicle out, never to count a vehicle in. Keep in mind that just because the report doesn’t list something doesn’t mean it didn’t happen. But if the item is listed, then it most likely did happen.

These history reports are very inconsistent and much of the information that you think that you are getting is not there. The problem with this is that the information contained in them is only as good as the information reported.

Companies such as Carfax and AutoCheck will state in their disclaimer that they are not responsible for the information that is contained in the report, nor are they responsible for any errors that may be contained in it. However, if you do choose to use a vehicle history report, remember that it can give some insight on that potential used car. However, don’t rely on them as absolute, because what you are looking for just might not be there in black and white and nothing can replace the knowledge and experience of a qualified mechanic.

If you have a question you’d like our experts and community to answer, please ask your question athttp://forum.iseecars.com.  To start your used car search, visit http://www.iSeeCars.com  

By: Sarah E. Sanuth, is an insider in the automotive industry  with many years of experience in the car dealership and repair business

When selling or shopping for a car, most people turn to Kelly Blue Book for new and used car pricing information. It has come to be known as the “tell all” and is almost always the first stop for car buyers and sellers alike. But many people and industries turn to this book not knowing where they get their information, or what it means.

Kelley Blue Book bases its used car pricing reports on a compilation of information, some of which is based on asking price, not selling price; but most of the information is not available or can’t be tracked by the company.

KBB Trade-In (wholesale) Value:

This information is based solely on what a dealer is willing to pay for a vehicle. It is a compilation of sales data from dealer-only auto auctions. However, not all auctions report this information, so it can be off greatly. For example, at the largest dealer-only auction in New England, a 2002 Toyota 4 Runner with 76,000 miles in excellent condition sold for $5,000, KBB.com says it is worth $6,600 trade-in (wholesale.) Fleet, rental and repossessed vehicles will also sell for a lot less than what KBB is reporting as “trade-in” value. At these auctions, optional equipment isn’t given much weight, or even tracked.

If you are trading your vehicle in, the pricing provided by KBB.com should be used as a highest best case scenario as the numbers that KBB provides are more often than not much higher than the actual trade-in or wholesale value. However, the value you receive should not be off by more than $2,000.

KBB Retail Value:

For KBB, there really isn’t a way for them to track the selling price of used vehicles. The only information that they have available is the asking price that anyone else can find on the internet. They do get some “actual selling” price information from some used car dealers, but the percentage is very small compared to how many used car dealers there are out there. They base their retail value on new car prices and take into consideration the market, depreciation, the cost to repair the vehicle and dealer overhead.

When purchasing a vehicle at retail from a dealer, the price you would expect to pay should be no less than the Private Party value and no more than $2,000 above Retail Value. This is due to the fact that KBB.com isn’t going by “real” numbers, but rather estimate based on their complex equation. Some dealers may have to put more work into the vehicle to get it up to standard than what KBB.com estimates into their equation.

KBB Private Party Value:

There is no way to track private party sales at all. This again is based on the same method for retail value without the overhead, repairs and profit margin considered.

If you are going to purchase a vehicle Private Party, the actual price you can expect to pay will vary greatly depending on the actual condition of the vehicle, as private party sellers are not required to repair the vehicle to standards set by law. The least that you should pay for a vehicle at private party is the trade-in value and the most should be retail. There will be some vehicles that will be purchased at private party that are in much better condition than some that are being sold at dealerships, therefore you should expect to pay close to retail for this vehicle, but never more than retail.

Which KBB Value to Use When Selling Your Vehicle:

If you are trying to sell a vehicle, you need to do an honest assessment of the vehicles condition. Don’t just assume that you are private party and that is your price, because that can work for or against you. If you know your vehicle needs a lot of work and would not pass a safety inspection, you should start at the fair condition private party value. On the other hand, if you have given your vehicle its oil changes, tune-ups and had maintenance performed religiously, and it would definitely pass a safety inspection, your starting “asking price” should be close to full retail.

Things such as the market, supply and demand, and regional differences are considered in the equation for all values as well, but take time to reflect in their pricing reports. For example, where gas prices were just at an all-time high, smaller cars were in much higher demand, therefore the prices were higher because of the market. In this instance, the SUV values were decreased. When things like this are taking place, you should adjust what you will expect to pay for this vehicle as KBB.com has not “caught up” with the market yet.

Much of the information provided by Kelley Blue Book is based on their experience and the information they have compiled years past. Fortunate for them, they have almost 100 years of experience in the automobile appraisal business. But these numbers are not etched in stone. These numbers are merely a starting point, or an estimate and nothing more. Just keep in mind to check the asking price of a vehicle at multiple dealerships in your area to ensure that the Blue Book accurately depicts actual values, before using it as guidance, as the market changes constantly. Also check the asking price of used cars listed for sale on various websites like cars.com, autotrader or car search engine sites like iSeeCars.com.

If you have a question you’d like our experts and community to answer, please ask your question at  http://forum.iseecars.com.  To start your used car search, visit http://www.iSeeCars.com  

By: Sarah E. Sanuth, an insider in the automotive industry  with many years of experience in the car dealership and repair business, is guest contributing an article sharing insightful tips on finding a good reputable car dealer to buy a used car.

Sometimes buying a used car can be seen as a gamble. There are some of us who dread walking into that car dealership because we have heard all the stereotypes. Are we going to get a lemon? Are we going to get taken advantage of? But not all used car dealers are made the same.

The following are tips to aid you in finding that a good reputable used car dealer.

Ask Your Friends

Any reputable used car dealer will rely on their customers to put the word out on how they conduct business. Referrals are a dealer’s cheapest and most reliable form of advertising. Ask anyone that you know who has purchased a used vehicle and how they were treated, they will give it to you straight.

Check Consumer Reporting Agencies

When customers feel they have been wronged by a company they might report it to agencies such as The Better Business Bureau, the Attorney General’s Office and any other outlet that will give them a place to file a complaint. Take the time to check these places to see whether or not a car dealer you might want to do business with has been reported. It may give you new insight into a dealer you might have thought was reputable.

Trust your Intuition

When we get that bad or weird feeling deep down, there is usually reason for it. First impressions are lasting impressions. Trust your instinct. It has gotten you out of possible trouble before, and it won’t let you down this time either.

Ask Questions

Don’t hesitate to ask any car dealer that you are interested in doing business with some essential questions. Some of these questions might include, “Can I bring the vehicle to a mechanic before I purchase?” or “What kind of guarantee/warrantee do you offer?” The way these questions are answered is more important than the answer itself. If your questions are answered with hesitation or the ever famous “I don’t know,” the probability of getting a raw deal increases. Any questions you ask should be answered clearly and confidently.

Don’t Listen to What Car Dealerships Say about Themselves

If someone wants your business, they are going to try and tell you through any of their advertising means that they are “reputable” or the “best” in the business. While it is possibly true, it very well may not be.

How Long Has the Car Dealership Been in Business?

In the used car business there are a lot of “fly-by-night” dealerships. You may have driven down the street and seen the name of a dealership change frequently or be constantly closed down. This is usually a sign that they are in it for the quick buck or have wronged too many customers. Unless the car dealership has been in business for a least a few years, there is no guarantee that you won’t get ripped off. A simple search on your states Secretary of State website will tell you how long they have been in business.

With all the used car dealerships out there, research and time is on your side. Take the time to do the research and it can help you find that one car dealer that will treat you right for years to come.

If you have a question you’d like our experts and community to answer, please ask your question at http://forum.iseecars.com.  To start your used car search, visit http://www.iSeeCars.com  

By: Sarah E. Sanuth, is an insider in the automotive industry  with many years of experience in the car dealership and repair business

A car or auto broker is much the same as a broker in any situation, such as real estate and mortgages, who serve as a middleman between the consumer and the dealer, and sometimes the financial institution. They usually have many years in the industry, and many were once dealership owners.

While it is sometimes nice to have someone do the legwork for you, is it really beneficial to you the consumer? Here we explore the advantages and disadvantages of using such a broker with your next car purchase.

Advantages

1. Auto brokers know the ins and outs of the car buying process, even the behind the scenes stuff that you probably don’t know. They truly know how much a dealer can move on their price.

2. While car brokers may not know everything about a certain make or model, they can get advice from colleagues, which provides them with all available information at their fingertips.

3. Most charge a flat fee. This means if car brokers don’t deliver, they don’t get paid.

4. Auto brokers have a larger buying power, which can equate to a better deal.

5. Prices of vehicles range regionally, they have the power to buy a car that is farther away, which means you could save money.

6. Auto brokers will arrange delivery of the vehicle to your doorstep, usually fully reconditioned with all proper manuals for no extra charge.

The fee is small, usually between $200 and $1,000; with higher end and exotic cars costing the most The fee is typically between 1-2% for new cars and 1.5-3% for used cars. A $20,000 used cars should only cost about $350.
7. Even if you don‘t save money and just break even with fees, car brokers can save you valuable time and headache.

Disadvantages

1. Some auto brokers work on commission. This means the more you pay, the more they get paid.

2. There’s a high likelihood the auto broker knows the dealer. Personal involvement can equal conflict of interest.

3. They may not shop around. Sometimes used car brokers use a single or a handful of dealers. Some are employees of a dealership, which means they don’t work for you and aren’t looking out for your best interest.

4. Depending on your state laws, an auto broker may not be required to be licensed or bonded. This means they may not be regulated by the state.

5. Some car brokers get paid by the dealership, not you.

6. Many car brokers only handle new cars.

7. You may not be physically able to check out the vehicle yourself. You will have to rely on pictures and their word. Some don’t have a mechanic or mechanic experience to properly check out a used car.
8. There is usually no guarantee included with the vehicle. If you purchase it and it dies, you have to foot the bill.

9. Some discount clubs like AAA or Checkbook.org offer car buying services for little to no cost. So, check with them before looking for a broker.

Whether you decide to use a car broker for your next purchase, or do the foot work yourself; there are a few things that you need to do to protect yourself. If you decide to use one, ask these questions to ensure you’re dealing with an honest broker:

1. How do you get paid? Flat fee or commission?
2. Who do you work for? (A real broker will not have any association with a dealership.)
3. How do you find the vehicles?
4. Are you licensed and bonded? (You can check your local government’s website as well.)
5. Do you have a mechanic to inspect vehicles?
6. What is the guarantee? (A reputable broker will allow you 72 hours to have the vehicle inspected by your own certified mechanic and if there are issues, fix it. But anything after that period is on you. Make sure you read the fine print.)

And always check consumer review websites to see how others experiences have been with any specific auto broker you’re considering. You can even go a step further and call dealerships in the broker’s area to see how well they know the broker.

If you have a question you’d like our experts and community to answer, please ask your question at  http://forum.iseecars.com.  To start your used car search, visit http://www.iSeeCars.com  

By: Sarah E. Sanuth, is an insider in the automotive industry  with many years of experience in the car dealership and repair business, is guest contributing an article sharing insightful tips on buying a good used car and what to look for in test driving a used car.

Taking a vehicle on a test-drive before buying it is a must. However, many of us don’t always know what we’re looking for; all we know is that we are supposed to. The following checklist / tips will help you make the most out of that test drive and buy a good used car.

1. Bring this checklist and a friend with you. The person doesn’t have to be a car guru but would be helpful in providing an extra set of eyes and ears. Have your friend write down the answers to the below questions and anything that you might hear, see or experience.

2. Make sure the vehicle is on a level, clean surface and start it. Allow it to warm up. Does it crank over right away? If it doesn’t, this indicates a starter or charging system failure.

3. After it is warm, while the vehicle is still running, check the transmission fluid. Does it read full and are there excessive bubbles on the dipstick? Bubbles could indicate excessive air or a breakdown inside the transmission.

4. Turn the vehicle off and check the oil. Is the level just right and does it look relatively clean with no lumps or debris? Oil changes are vital, it’s the vehicles blood; if it is dirty, oil changes weren’t done properly. If it appears milky, coolant is mixing with the oil in which case do not drive it; it means the head gasket or the engine is or about to go.

5. Start the vehicle again and take a walk around. Is there any overspray in the door jambs and do the hinges line-up properly? If you see these, this indicates that the vehicle has been in an accident and repaired; and should be priced accordingly.

6. Check underneath the vehicle. Look for any excessive rust or rot. Is there any fluid on the ground? If so, there is a leak somewhere that needs to be fixed.

7. Check all electrical components and accessories such as the HVAC system, interior and exterior lights, radio, power locks, windows, and seats. Does everything work properly?

8. Never use the radio while on a test-drive so you can pay full attention to the car and driving experience.

9. Drive a minimum of 30 minutes. You have to get the engine up to temperature in order for certain problems to expose themselves.

10. Drive off and on the highway. Do you like how the vehicle handles and steers?

11. Are all the gauges on the instrument panel working properly? Pay close attention to the temperature gauge. If it appears that it is not working properly, it could have either been disconnected to hide an overheating issue or the instrument panel needs to be replaced, which is costly. This could also mean the mileage is not correct.

12. Take plenty of turns, sharp and wide. On turns, listen for any whining and clicking sounds. These sounds will let you know there is a steering or axle issue. How does the vehicle hug the road?

13. Drive uphill and downhill. Does the vehicle lag or downshift properly? If it lags, the transmission may be on its way out.

14. Accelerate fast without flooring it. Does the transmission slam into gear or hesitate? This would also indicate a transmission problem.

15. Test the braking system in all scenarios. Slam on the brakes in a safe place. The vehicle should stop with no issues. Check the emergency brake. Does it hold the vehicle on a hill and stop the vehicle?

16. When you are done, while still in the vehicle take a look around, reach in the backseat. Is the vehicle comfortable? How was the ride itself? Was it too bumpy? Did you have a good view? Do you have enough head, leg and hip room? Sit in the back seat. Is there enough room back there as well? Check the trunk. Is there enough room to put what you need?

17. Make sure you write everything down. This will be your biggest comparing tool. If you’re going to check out another vehicle, do it right away while your thoughts are still fresh.

18. Don’t buy it right away. Wait until the next day and take it for another drive. This time, take it to an independent mechanic. Have them check out the vehicle and give them your list. This will aid them in either confirming your suspicions or putting them to rest.

Take the time to check every area of the vehicle. This will ensure that you make the right decision in buying a used car and leave nothing to surprise.

By: Sarah E. Sanuth, is an insider in the automotive industry  with many years of experience in the car dealership and repair business, is guest contributing an article sharing insightful tips increasing the value of your used car before selling it.

Whether you’re trading your vehicle in or selling it private party, you want to get the most for it. With a little elbow grease and a few dollars, you can increase the value of that used vehicle, as well as increasing the probability of selling it.

Cleaning/Reconditioning

First impressions are everything. A potential buyer will assume if you didn’t care what the inside or outside looked like, that you didn’t care what happened under the hood either. Take the time to make sure that these areas look impeccable. A simple vacuuming, shampooing, wash and wax will take care of this. Don’t forget the engine compartment. A simple degreaser and a rinse will take care of this. If you don’t want to do this yourself, for about $100, you can have it done.

Cosmetic Repairs

Anything that makes the vehicle look as though it is in disrepair needs to be fixed. This can include anything such as broken mirrors, glass, headlight, tail lights, missing heater and radio knobs, and tires. These items are inexpensive to replace and a simple trip to a junk yard can save you a bundle. Many items are attached only by a few screws and can be changed in minutes.

Remove aftermarket parts and accessories

If your vehicle has any modifications that aren’t factory installed, a suggestion would be to remove these and replace them with the factory parts. If a buyer sees these modifications, they may assume that the vehicle has been beaten on or taken for one too many joy rides.

Maintenance Records/Receipts

If you have your maintenance and repair records, include them with the vehicle. Giving this information will allow the customer to see that you have properly maintained the vehicle.

Research

When you’re buying a vehicle, you would research to see what the vehicle is actually worth, do the same when selling. Not only should you check book values from sites like KBB.com, but check classified advertising sites (our site iSeeCars.com allows you to see used car prices across a number of different classifieds sites) to see what people are listing the same vehicles for with same make, model, trim, year and similar mileage and options. When checking these prices, always underestimate the condition of your vehicle. This will ensure that you sell the vehicle, and sell it for a reasonable price. Market value is more important than book value and a vehicle is only worth what someone is willing to pay for it.

When trying to sell a vehicle, look at it as if you were a potential buyer. Anything that turns you off will turn a buyer off. Make those simple repairs; a small investment can go a long way.

If you have a question you’d like our experts and community to answer, please ask your question athttp://forum.iseecars.com.  To start your used car search, visit http://www.iSeeCars.com  

By: Sarah E. Sanuth, is an insider in the automotive industry  with many years of experience in the car dealership and repair business, is guest contributing an article sharing her insider’s perspective on car financing.

When many of us purchase a used vehicle, we look for financing. However, we don’t always consider all our options and sometimes just go the quick and easy route, even if it means costing more money. But looking for the best car financing doesn’t have to be difficult.

First and foremost, know your credit score. Most lenders look at just your scores, rather than your credit report as a whole. If you don’t know your scores, spend the few dollars and obtain them.

Starting your auto financing search prior to purchasing a vehicle will give you plenty of time to research and compare, and prevent you from making a hasty decision.

Perform an internet search for “car financing.” This will bring you to more than enough lenders to complete the search, but don’t forget your local banks and credit unions. Check and compare all interest rates; a site like Bankrate.com has helpful comparison information. Choose at least the best two lenders from each type of lending institution. Once you have all the rates and terms, compare them side by side.

Other than interest rate, there are other key items to consider, some of which will affect the interest rate you are going to receive.

Term

Typically, the longer the term the higher the interest rate, this will also affect your monthly payment. Before getting set on a certain interest rate or term, make sure you can afford the payments.

0% Financing or Rebates

Don’t get your heart set on getting that 0% interest rate. To qualify, you usually need a credit score of at least 680 and have to take the shorter financing term, which increases your monthly payment. If you take the rebate over the 0% interest rate, it decreases the amount you are financing. This in turn, could lower your monthly payment and decreases the overall cost of the vehicle. Edmunds.com offers a calculator to help you determine whether the lower interest or the rebate is best for you.

Down Payment

The amount in which you put down on the car purchase can affect the term, interest rate and monthly payment. Make sure that your down payment will adequately benefit your financing needs.

Extended Warrantees, Rust Protection, Undercoating, etc.

When you include any of these extras, it is rolled into the overall amount you are financing. You don’t have to purchase these items through the dealer, shop around and read the fine print. If you want to include these items, try to negotiate as they are often marked up. Otherwise, almost anyone can apply these items to their vehicle for a fraction of the price.

Before you Sign

Make sure that all the terms that you worked out are written in black and white and there is no deviation from what was discussed. Take the time to read every part to make sure nothing was slipped in. If something isn’t right, don’t sign until it is.

A lenders website will usually list all the terms and conditions of obtaining a used car financing. Make sure you read all the fine print before proceeding. Above all else, make sure you compare all the terms and conditions of a loan to ensure that it is something you can afford, and live with.

If you have a question you’d like our experts and community to answer, please ask your question at  http://forum.iseecars.com.  To start your used car search, visit http://www.iSeeCars.com  

By: Sarah E. Sanuth, is an insider in the automotive industry  with many years of experience in the car dealership and repair business, is guest contributing an article sharing her insider’s perspective on top mistakes to avoid in buying a used car.

When it comes to purchasing a vehicle, there are lots of things that need to be looked at, considered and talked about. Whether you get flustered or completely excited during the process, there is always room to make mistakes.

After personally selling more than 3,000 used vehicles, I have seen many mistakes. But when you make your money selling vehicles, you aren’t too keen on killing the sale by telling the consumer they are making a mistake.

The following is a list of the common mistakes I have seen made by many consumers when purchasing a used vehicle. Adhere to these and you will help to ensure that your next used vehicle purchase is one that doesn’t bring you down the path to a bad decision.

Fixing your old vehicle:

The biggest mistake many consumers make when purchasing a vehicle, is purchasing one for no reason. A good number of people don’t want to deal with the issues that their current vehicle is having, so instead of fixing it, they replace it. Of course, if you have a vehicle in which you have already had the transmission replaced a few times, it’s time to get rid of it. But if you are dealing with issues such as brakes, exhaust, or a cracked windshield; it is in your best interest to have these issues fixed.

Needs versus Wants:

There are features of the car that you need and there are those that are nice to have. Dual heating zones, navigation, Bluetooth, or buying something because everyone else has it equal spending more money than necessary. Before heading out shopping for a vehicle, always make a list of needs and wants, keeping the two separate. That will help ensure that you make the most practical car purchase, without overspending.

SUV’s, sports cars and vehicle with a lot of electrical components cost more to maintain. Unless you need one of these types of vehicles, don’t buy one.

Trading in your old vehicle:

When you trade in your vehicle, you never get what the vehicle is worth. Car dealers want your old vehicle for nothing, and will only show you money on paper. Always try to sell your vehicle through a private party sale before offering it on trade. A private sale can yield you thousands more than trading it in.

Listening to what people say:

When someone knows you are searching for a vehicle, they might offer you some advice and tell you to stay away from a certain make or model. Listen, don’t ignore it. This doesn’t mean that you have to swear off this vehicle completely, but means you need to dig in further and make a proper assessment, especially if the advice is from a mechanic. It is true, certain vehicles have constant transmission or motor problems, and there is nothing that you can do about it. If you don’t listen you may end up with a huge repair bill, a vehicle that doesn’t run, and a car payment to top it all off.

Having an independent mechanic look over the vehicle:

No one purchases a vehicle without taking it for a test drive, why purchase it without having a mechanic who has no personal interest in making the sale look it over for you. For a small fee, most any mechanic should be able to let you know anything that might be wrong with it. This could end up saving you a lot of money and headaches.

Sleeping on it:

Just because you are out looking for a car today, doesn’t mean you have to buy it today. Waiting at least one day to think over a potential purchase could help you from making a mistake you might regret. Taking yourself out of the situation will help you make a clear and informed decision without all the hassle of what is going on at a dealership.

Showing emotions:

Never let the salesmen know that you “love” or “want” a certain vehicle. If you can help it, try looking over the dealerships inventory without a salesman at your side. Simply tell him or her that you will come find them when you find something you are interested in. When it comes time to talk with the salesman, never hint that you “love” this or that vehicle. The salesman will try to play on any emotions that you might be displaying to coerce you into making the purchase “now” and possibly for the wrong price.

Car shopping alone:

Two sets of eyes are better than one. Always try to bring at least one person with you. Try to give the impression that the vehicle you choose is a joint decision, regardless of whether it is or not. The person you bring with you doesn’t have to have any mechanical experience, just someone who is another set of eyes and ears, to see and hear what you might not.

Secure financing before looking for a vehicle:

Car dealerships don’t just make their money selling vehicles; they make money on financing, too. Take the time to secure your financing before you look for a vehicle. Whether it is through your bank, credit union or other facility, this will give you a clear answer as to what amount you can really afford, cut out all the bull when you decide on a vehicle, and give you a better interest rate.

Researching:

With the wealth of information available on the internet today, there is no excuse for making an uninformed decision. Whether it is before or after you have started looking for a vehicles, always research every aspect of a potential vehicle purchase. For pricing information always check KBB.com, Edmunds.com or NADA.com. These sites will give you an idea of the book value for a specific vehicle.

But go a little further than that. Check out car classifieds sites to get an idea of what the vehicles are actually selling for. Doing a simple Google search on the make and model of a vehicle you are interested in can bring you to information about potential problems that the specific make and model might be known for.

Used car shopping can be a tricky and complicated process, but it doesn’t have to be. Before you sign on the dotted line, take the time to follow these simple steps; doing so will help ensure that you save money, headache and above all else, regrets.

If you have a question you’d like our experts and community to answer, please ask your question at  http://forum.iseecars.com.  To start your used car search, visit http://www.iSeeCars.com  

Most Expensive:

Imagine you’re driving to work in your brand new red sports car. You’re weaving
in and out of lanes and laughing at the people you pass driving to work in their over-
sized, gas-guzzling SUVs.

Well, while laughing, think about this: although SUVs do spend more money on gas,
you’re probably spending much more on your auto insurance premium. According to the
Insurance Institute for Highway Safety, faster cars get into more accidents—particularly
when the person behind the wheel is a young and inexperienced driver.

As a whole, smaller cars (which, in turn, tend to be faster as well) are more attractive to
young car buyers, mainly due to the fact that these cars are likely less expensive when
compared to larger vehicles. However, younger drivers also seem to be a bit riskier on
the road, and use the small size of their vehicle to burn through traffic.

The Subaru Impreza WRX, the Mitsubishi Lancer, the Acura RSX, and the Nissan Sentra
SE-R are the vehicles with the highest collision rates, mainly because the drivers of these
cars tend to be younger, and the way they drive causes more accidents.

However, don’t expect every car on the list of ‘Most Expensive Cars to Insure’ to be
small, sporty vehicles. The #1 most expensive car to insure is the Cadillac Escalade EXT
4WD. If you’re wondering why this would top the list when every other car is small,
sporty, and relatively affordable, the answer is simple: theft appeal.

The Cadillac Escalade is one of the most popular and most recognized car in its class. It
represents wealth, class, and style. Not only is this car looked favorably upon by older
generations, but also this is one of the hottest and most desired cars amongst the younger
generation. In addition, everything in an Escalade can be placed and attached into a
Suburban, making this car hot not only to all generations, but hot for thieves as well.
According to Bankrate.com, due to its desirability, Cadillac Escalade owners deal with a
comprehensive premium of six times the national average.

Least Expensive:

Fortunately, for those starting a family or thinking of starting a family, the cars
likely to have the lowest insurance costs are large sedans, mid-sized SUVs, or minivans;
namely vehicles ideal when traveling in packs.

The reason is simple; perhaps it’s because children are quite often in these vehicles, but
generally those driving family-car-like vehicles are less likely to be driving recklessly.
Additionally, one is less likely to use such vehicles as transportation to and from work,
therefore lowering the chances that it will be on the road during rush hour, a time when
the likelihood of accidents increase.

Other reasons these vehicles make the list of ‘Least Expensive Cars to Insure’ is because
many times these vehicles are kept in a private driveway or garage. Doing this lowers the
chances of theft, not to mention that these cars are deemed less desirable to thieves.

Still remember, however, that this list does not mean that the larger a vehicle is, the lower
the insurance costs will be. There are many vehicles that are so large that they cause
more damage on average to other cars when in an accident. For example, all models of
the Hummer are associated with causing higher damages in accidents, and because of
this, the auto insurance premiums tend to be more expensive.

10 Most Expensive Cars to Insure
1. Cadillac Escalade EXT 4WD
2. Subaru Impreza WRX 4WD
3. Hyundai Tiburon
4. Mitsubishi Lancer
5. Scion tC
6. Acura RSX
7. Nissan Sentra SE-R
8. Suzuki Forenza
9. Nissan Sentra/Mitsubishi Eclipse
10. Chevrolet Cobalt two-door

10 Least Expensive Cars to Insure
1. Ford Five Hundred 4WD (now the Ford Taurus)
2. Buick Rendezvous 4WD
3. Buick Lucerne/Buick Rainier 4WD/Honda Odyssey
4. Ford Freestyle 4WD/Subaru Outback 4WD
5. Buick Rendezvous/Honda Pilot
6. Chrysler Town & Country LWB
7. Honda Pilot 4WD
8. Buick LaCrosse/Chevrolet Uplander/Ford Escape/Volvo V70
9. Dodge Grand Caravan/Ford Freestyle 4WD
10. Ford Explorer 4WD/GMC Sierra 1500 4WD/Toyota Highlander/Toyota Sienna.

In addition to comfort, resale value and gas mileage, it is important to find out exactly
how much that leased or purchased car is going to cost to insure. You may be in for a
rude awakening if that “perfect” car has insurance costs that make your eyebrows jump
off your head!

For more information or to obtain an insurance quote for your next car, go to InsuranceQuotes.com.

Toyota Prius and hybrid versions of Chevrolet Malibu, Chevrolet Tahoe,
Ford Escape, Saturn Vue, and Toyota Camry pay back price premium after one
year

YONKERS, N.Y., Sept. 2 /PRNewswire-USNewswire/ — With gas prices
soaring, Consumer Reports’ latest analysis of owner costs shows that
drivers can save anywhere from $500 to $4,250 over a five year ownership
period by choosing selected hybrids rather than similar conventional
gasoline-powered vehicles.

Six of the 12 hybrids CR experts looked at — Toyota Prius and hybrid
versions of the Chevrolet Malibu, Chevrolet Tahoe, Ford Escape, Saturn Vue,
and Toyota Camry — can save consumers about $500 to $4,250 even without
tax credits, and pay back their price premium after only one year. For
several of these hybrids, owners can save even more by taking advantage of
federal tax credits.

CR experts compared the five-year owner costs of 12 hybrids with those
of similar conventional vehicles using Consumer Reports’ new-car owner-cost
estimates, introduced in the April 2008 issue.

The Toyota Camry hybrid, which gets 34 mpg overall in CR’s tests, saves
the most money, about $4,250 over five years compared with a similarly
equipped four-cylinder Toyota Camry XLE, which gets 24 mpg.

The Saturn Vue Greenline Hybrid can save about $3,000, while the Toyota
Prius and Chevrolet Tahoe save $2,000 and $1,500 respectively, when
compared to their non-hybrid counterparts. With tax credits, the Vue and
Tahoe come out ahead by about $4,500 and $3,700. Federal tax incentives are
no longer available for Toyota and Lexus hybrids.

The report, “Which Hybrids save you money” is available in the
redesigned October issue of Consumer Reports, on sale September 2 on
newsstands and online at http://www.ConsumerReports.org.

The October issue of CR also features an analysis of how drivers can
save gas and money by opting for a car with a stick shift. In recent tests,
Consumer Reports found that cars with a manual transmission can improve gas
mileage by a notable 2 to 5 mpg, compared with an automatic transmission,
and can cut a car’s price by $800 to $1,200.

It would take many years for most hybrids to pay back their premium
price just on fuel savings alone. But fuel costs are a relatively small
part — 25 percent — of the overall owner costs in the first five years.
Other factors include depreciation, insurance, interest on financing,
maintenance and repairs, and sales tax.

Cost estimates were based on driving 12,000 miles per year and paying
$4 per gallon for regular gasoline and $4.20 for premium.

“Most of the hybrids tested by CR have done really well, but hybrids
have higher initial upfront costs,” said Rik Paul, automotive editor,
Consumer Reports. “If you can afford that initial cost, you can be better
off buying one, and driving one might make you feel greener.”

The Honda Civic, Nissan Altima, and Saturn Aura hybrids will cost
drivers a little more than their conventional counterparts — from $250 to
$750 over five years — but some consumers might find it worthwhile to
drive a more environmentally friendly car. With federal tax incentives, all
three come out ahead after just one year.

Three hybrids — the Lexus GS 450h and RX 400h and the Toyota
Highlander Hybrid — cost more than their counterparts in the first five
years. They show five year losses ranging from about $1,250 for the
Highlander to $5,500 for the GS.

Hybrids vs. Conventional Cars

Interest in hybrids has been on a parallel trajectory with gas prices.
Hybrid sales jumped almost 40 percent last year. According to a recent
Consumer Reports survey, 32 percent of active car shoppers are considering
a hybrid for their next vehicle. And this past summer, automakers had a
difficult time keeping up with demand for the most popular models.

In addition to being thrifty with fuel, hybrids emit less pollution,
with some models classified as Partial Zero Emission Vehicles by the
California Air Resources Board. They also release fewer greenhouse gases
because each gallon of gasoline not burned prevents the emission of 19
pounds of carbon dioxide.

The Bottom Line

With higher gas prices, many hybrids now provide a definite benefit in
overall owner cost, despite an initial price premium. Still, if saving
money right out of the gate is important, some conventional cars provide
good fuel economy and cost less than hybrids. Consumer Reports advises
people to decide what type of vehicle is right for them and then to choose
one that gets good gas mileage for its class and rates highly in CR’s road
tests and reliability, safety and ownership-cost ratings.

OCTOBER 2008

(C) Consumers Union 2008. The material above is intended for legitimate
news entities only; it may not be used for commercial or promotional
purposes. Consumer Reports(R) is published by Consumers Union, an expert,
independent nonprofit organization whose mission is to work for a fair,
just, and safe marketplace for all consumers and to empower consumers to
protect themselves. To achieve this mission, we test, inform, and protect.
To maintain our independence and impartiality, CU accepts no outside
advertising, no free test samples, and has no agenda other than the
interests of consumers. CU supports itself through the sale of our
information products and services, individual contributions, and a few
noncommercial grants.

SOURCE Consumer Reports

This is common question amongst used car buyers.  That was certainly one of my main questions when I first started looking for a used car.  In my experience, I tend to look for cars that are 3-4 years old and less than 30-35K miles and that has worked well for me but that of course depends on your needs.  If you’re like my friend who is remodeling his home and is looking for a used car that can just help him haul materials, price is his main concern and not necessarily the mileage as long as the car can serve a temporary purpose of getting him from point A to B.

For people with normal driving needs, according to Tom and Ray Magliozzi (hosts of NPR’s CarTalk) in their book on “How to Buy a Great Used Car,” they advise buying a 2-3 year old car with 20-40K miles.  They think that would be the best bet for “people who want to drive a car that looks good, runs well, has up-to-date safety equipment and is very reliable.”

Of course, a lot of the reliability of the car also depends on the manufacturer.  We would suggest also consulting Consumer Reports list of Best and Worst used cars  – .

If you have a question you’d like our experts and community to answer, please ask your question at  http://forum.iseecars.com.  To start your used car search, visit http://www.iSeeCars.com  

Buying a three-year-old Toyota Camry can save $13,000 over a five year
period

YONKERS, N.Y., Sept. 2 /PRNewswire-USNewswire/ — A new Consumer
Reports study of owner costs shows that choosing a reliable three-year-old
car instead of a new one can save drivers thousands of dollars over the
first five years. In many cases, that’s enough to pay for all the gas used
during that time.

With relatively low mileage, modern safety and convenience features,
and usually a much lower price than similar new vehicles, late-model used
cars are in the sweet spot of auto deals.

On average, CR’s findings show that consumers can save 32 percent in
the first five years by buying a three-year-old car. Similarly, with a one
or two-year-old car, they can save 19 and 27 percent, respectively.

According to the analysis, buying a 2005 Toyota Camry with a V6 engine,
for example could save consumers about $13,000 over five years compared
with buying a new 2008 version. At $4 per gallon, the driver could pay for
all of his or her gas during that period (based on driving 12,000 miles per
year) and still be almost $2,500 ahead.

Similarly, driving a 2005 Ford Focus can save more than $8,000 over the
first five years, compared with buying the new Focus. And with demand for
big SUVs plummeting and their used-car values dropping, drivers could save
$25,500 over five years by buying a three-year-old Chevrolet Tahoe instead
of a new one.

CR’s five year owner costs are based on: Depreciation — Calculated by
using CR’s Auto Price Service. Fuel costs — $4 a gallon for regular gas
and $4.20 for premium, based on driving 12,000 miles annually and CR’s
overall fuel economy for the vehicle. Insurance — The cost of insuring an
average driver based on data from the Insurance Institute for Highway
Safety. Interest — CR assumed buyers purchased cars with a 15 percent
down on a five-year loan; http://www.Bankrate.com was the source for the
average interest rate. Maintenance and repairs — Data was taken from CR’s
2007 Annual Auto Reliability Survey. Sales tax — Calculated using the
national average at the time of purchase.

“A reliable late-model used car can be one of the best values out there
when buying a car,” said Rik Paul, automotive editor, Consumer Reports.
“Savvy shoppers can also get a more upscale model with more features for
the same owner cost as a less expensive new car.”

The full report is available in the redesigned October issue of
Consumer Reports, on sale September 2 on newsstands and online at
http://www.ConsumerReports.org.

Why used cars are good values

The real key to used-car savings is depreciation, or how much value a
car loses over time. On average, depreciation accounts for a whopping 45
percent of a new vehicle’s owner costs over the first five years, with the
steepest drop in value coming in the first year.

By contrast, a three-year-old vehicle has already taken its biggest hit
in resale value. Its depreciation accounts for only about 25 percent of its
five-year owner costs. Big depreciation for new cars means lower prices for
used cars, which in turn mean lower finance charges and sales tax. When
combined, that can cut owner cost dramatically.

However, CR found that some popular models such as the Mini Cooper and
Toyota Prius don’t depreciate much. So buying a used version of those
models results in modest savings.

Many people shy away from buying a used car because they’re afraid of
buying someone else’s problems. Yet CR’s reliability data show that cars,
overall, are much more reliable than they used to be. Rust and
exhaust-system problems, once common in older cars, are no longer of major
concern. And reliable late-model vehicles usually have few problems
overall. That said, if a car hasn’t been well-maintained, reliability and
value are wild cards.

To check reliability predictions, visit http://www.ConsumerReports.org/cars.

Bottom Line

While most used cars on the market are five years or older, it’s worth
looking for late-model used vehicles that are three years old or less.
Drivers can often find a late-model used car with many of the latest safety
features, such as electronic stability control and side and curtain air
bags. It’s even possible to find one with a transferable factory warranty.

OCTOBER 2008

(C) Consumers Union 2008. The material above is intended for legitimate
news entities only; it may not be used for commercial or promotional
purposes. Consumer Reports(R) is published by Consumers Union, an expert,
independent nonprofit organization whose mission is to work for a fair,
just, and safe marketplace for all consumers and to empower consumers to
protect themselves. To achieve this mission, we test, inform, and protect.
To maintain our independence and impartiality, CU accepts no outside
advertising, no free test samples, and has no agenda other than the
interests of consumers. CU supports itself through the sale of our
information products and services, individual contributions, and a few
noncommercial grants.

SOURCE Consumer Reports

In the aftermath of a series of hurricanes, the Better Business Bureau in Texas (in their Press Release yesterday) provides the following tips to avoid buying a flood-damaged car.

In the wake of a major disaster in your area, the Better Business Bureau urges new and used car buyers to be cautious of unscrupulous businesses and individuals who may try to sell flood-damaged cars without revealing the vehicles’ history.

The BBB recommends the following tips to help consumers determine if a car is flood-damaged:

Ask to see the title of a used car. Check the date and place of transfer to see if the car came from a flood-damaged state and if the title is stamped “salvage.”

Check all gauges on the dashboard to make sure they are accurate, and to look for signs of water.

Test the lights, windshield wipers, turn signals, cigarette lighter, radio, heater and air conditioner several times to make sure they work. Also, flex some wires under the dash to see if they bend or crack, since wet wires become brittle upon drying and can crack or fail at any time.

Check the trunk, glove compartment, and beneath the seats and dash for signs of mud, rust or water damage.

Look for discolored, faded or stained upholstery and carpeting. Carpeting that has been replaced may fit too loosely or may not match the interior color.

Check for a well-defined line, or watermark, and for musty odors resulting from mildew.

Check out the reliability of the dealer by contacting the Better Business Bureau where the company is located.

If the car’s history seems suspicious, ask the dealer or individual directly if the car has been damaged by flood water.

Before buying any used car, always get a pre-purchase inspection by a trusted mechanic. The extra cost may save you money in the long run.