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The internet has completely changed the way we buy cars. Twenty years ago, if a person wanted to research new and used cars, he had to schlepp down to the library and pore over back issues of Consumer Digest magazine. There was no leisurely cup of coffee while perched behind a computer for guy that couldn’t decide between a Chevy, Ford or Toyota. No, he had to go pound the pavement, visiting dealer after dealer, being subjected to sales spiel after spiel. No wonder drivers used to keep their cars a lot longer: who would want to go through that rigmarole just to get a new family sedan?

The arrival of the internet has changed the way car dealerships work. Nothing is secret anymore – with a few clicks of a mouse a consumer can find out trade-in value, the MSRP (Manufacturer’s Suggested Retail Price) on the new vehicle, the best dealer, available rebates and more:

• Know how much the trade-in is worth. Because any used vehicle’s trade-in value is so subjective (due to varying conditions, equipment, mileage, pay-off amount, or even color of the vehicle) it’s easy to be taken advantage when it comes time to trade a car. Prior to the internet, it was almost impossible to get a valuation on a vehicle without going to a car dealer. Today, websites such as www.kbb.com or www.edmunds.com help keep consumers informed.
• Figure out what sort of payment the budget can handle. Before there were loan calculators, like the one found at www.bankrate.com , the rough rule of thumb was that for decent credit, a buyer would pay back about $20 a month for every thousand borrowed, and a person with poor credit would pay back about $25 per thousand. However, using this rough rule of thumb was just that: rough. A visit to this website allows consumers to plug in different factors, such as loan amount, length of loan, percentage points in order to find the payment most comfortable with.
• Know how much car qualified for. If you currently have a preferred bank, visit that lender’s website to pre-qualify the loan. If not, go to www.lendingtree.com where one simple application will be reviewed by several different lenders, and all will make loan offers. Research the lenders and make a decision as to which loan will cost the least amount of money.
• Looking to buy pre-owned instead of brand new? Websites such as www.autotrader.com allow consumers to see the cars dealers have for sale and classifieds sites like www.craigslist.com allow consumers to find cars for sale by private parties.  Recently, sites like this website (iSeeCars.com) provide a search engine like Google that lets consumers easily search for car classifieds posted on thousands of car sites, saving users time and helping them find great deals.
• An invaluable website that will assist on the mission of used car buying is www.carfax.com For a fee of $39.99, Carfax will run checks on the VIN (Vehicle identification Number) of an unlimited number of vehicles. This will give all sorts of information that the dealer would rather remain hidden: was it a fleet vehicle, how many owners has it had, what sort of repair work has been done, what is the true mileage, has it ever been water-damaged or in an accident.
• The website www.is-it-a-lemon.com will inform consumers if the make and model of any vehicle has a bad history. There are also links on this website to assist with insurance, extended warranties and more.
• Go to www.nhtsa.gov to check any vehicle to see if it has ever been involved in a recall. This is also a good precautionary check for used car buyers, simply to see if there might be inherent problems due to a previous recall.
• *Just how reliable and honest is the dealership you’re considering? Check out www.ripoffreport.com for comments about the business. This website gives a forum for customers to sound off about their bad experiences. Granted, no dealership is perfect, and there will always be disgruntled customers for one reason or another. However, if there is comment after comment, or if there appears to be a trend as to how a certain place treats their customers, perhaps it’s time to check out a different dealer.

So go pour a cup of coffee, turn on the computer, skip the hassle and buy your next car.

If you have a question you’d like our experts and community to answer, please ask your question at http://forum.iseecars.com.  To start your car search, visit http://www.iSeeCars.com to find over 2 million cars for sale across more than 11,000 websites.

By Ali Koomen, who spent over a dozen years in the car dealership busines, provides her expert insights

“I know what you paid for that vehicle. . . ” or “Why don’t you dip into your holdbacks?”

There’s no other business where a buyer feels it is his right to know what the seller paid for the merchandise. Telling the dealership that it makes enough money on the holdbacks is just as presumptuous. Holdbacks help pay for costly advertising, and for flooring (interest paid to the manufacturer to have the vehicle on the lot) and other operating expenses.

Giving an ultimatum on price may come back to shoot you in the foot. The vehicle you just grandly offered to pay $200 over invoice for could be new to the lot and will most likely sell at MSRP or close to it, due to its desirability. On the other hand, you could be looking at a unit that has been there for months, the flooring on it has killed any chance of a good profit and all the dealer wants is to get the albatross off the lot. In a case like that, the manager may dip into the holdback, just to get rid of the vehicle.

Instead: Wait to see what the salesman’s response to the first offer is and take it from there.

“My payments cannot go any higher than $_______”

Payment shoppers are a salesman’s dream. It’s very easy to fit a vehicle to a payment by offering a different trim level, requiring more money down, changing the length or the terms of the loan, changing it from a purchase to a lease.

Instead: Don’t shop payments, shop the price of the vehicle. Go to www.bankrate.com and plug in terms, interest and price in order to find the payment desired; this will give a good indication of the price of the new vehicle you should be searching for. In other words, don’t look at a $30,000 truck if you need your payments under $300. . . .

“I’ve done my research!”

Most salesmen hate this declaration. So you’ve ‘done your homework.’ So what? The top three vehicle evaluation websites cannot agree on prices on identical vehicles. Besides, there’s a lot of misinformation on the internet, but a lot of people that have ‘done their research’ take it as gospel, when it should simply be points to ponder.

Instead: Don’t ever go into a dealership ‘unarmed’ , but keep in mind that not all information garnered online is correct. Use the info as a negotiation tool, not as something written in stone.

“I don’t have much time.”

A salesman might look at this as a challenge to keep you there long past your ‘deadline’. Or he may simply mentally dismiss you: why waste time talking to this guy when that couple over there looks ready to buy?

“I don’t have much time” is marginally better than the ubiquitous ‘I’m just looking’. No one goes into a dealership to while away the hours, everyone there is either gathering information with eventual intentions to buy, or wants to buy that day.

There is no ‘express route’ through the buying process. The salesman knows that it’s going to take time to show several vehicles, take one or two test drives, give his sales spiel, have the trade evaluated, negotiate the deal and put you into finance.

Instead: Let the salesman know that you’re there comparing his vehicle to a similar one in a different make, and there is no way you’ll buy until you’ve had a chance to test drive both. However, if you go with his vehicle, you will buy from him. Remember, vehicle salesmen work on commission only, and as long as he thinks there’s a chance he’ll get you to eventually buy, he won’t begrudge the time spent assisting you.

“I see that $30,000 vehicle there and I am willing to offer $18,000 on it” (or some other such ridiculous quote)

The salesman’s knee-jerk reaction will be “Don’t waste my time!” and he is right. Starting the negotiations at an impossible price just lets him know that you’re a jerk, or that you haven’t done even the slightest bit of research beforehand. Either scenario is going to start you off on the wrong foot.

Instead: Serious buyers should visit www.edmunds.com to get the TMV (True Market Value) and use the price given there as a negotiation tool. If the TMV on that $30,000 vehicle is $28,100, offer $27K. You’re not going to get it at that price, but a sound offer will correctly get the negotiation ball rolling.

If you have a question you’d like our experts and community to answer, please ask your question at http://forum.iseecars.com.  To start your car search, visit http://www.iSeeCars.com to find over 2 million cars for sale across more than 11,000 websites.

By Ali Koomen, who spent over a dozen years in the car dealership business provides her inside perspective on the car buying process

1. Asterisks and fine print: If the advertised price seems too good to be true, check the asterisks and fine print. Read closely– the price is good only after rebates (such as owner loyalty or college grad) that many buyers can’t qualify for. Or the price is the cost before ‘mandatory’ add-ons such as extremely overpriced Scotch-guarding and paint sealcoat. Or there’s only one unit available at that price. Or. . .or. . .or (Tip: Read all fine print closely.)
2. Trade-in taken hostage: You want to leave but suddenly it’s impossible to get your own car keys back. Common ‘excuses’ are. . . “Our appraiser is backed up”, “Our lot boy accidentally took it to the detail department”, “We’ve temporarily misplaced your keys”. Then the inevitable, “While we’re waiting, let me show you the numbers on the new car.”(Tip: Don’t give up the keys until you’re ready to work the deal.)
3. Undervalued trade-in: dealerships jockey the numbers to give the illusion of a great deal. Don’t be wowed by the $5,000 the new truck is ‘discounted’ if the trade-in worth $6,000 was only valued at $2K. (Tip: Sell the trade outright)
4. High pressure to buy that day: If a salesman says that the price given is ‘only good for that day’, he is lying. The only reason a price would increase in 24 hours is if there was a rebate situation ending that very day. (Tip: If he won’t let you think on it, take your business elsewhere.)
5. Puppy dog close: Once that adorable puppy is taken into a home, there’s no way he’ll be returned to the pound. The same with that new car. The dealership may offer to put the car on a BCA (Borrowed Car Agreement). The salesman knows that once you’ve taken the vehicle home and see how it looks in the driveway, you’ll be loathe to return it. (Tip: Don’t fall for the BCA unless you are serious about the vehicle.)
6. Iffy deal let loose: Similar to a ‘puppy dog close’, this tactic involves high emotion. The deal is worked out, the papers are signed and you’ve taken the car home. Then a few days or even a week or so after buying the car, the F&I department calls to say the original deal didn’t get bought. He’ll need another thousand or two down, or the deal needs to be reworked, meaning much higher payments. By the time the F&I guy calls with the bad news, the neighbors have all seen the new car in the driveway, friends are all envious and your family is in love with it. You’ll probably do whatever possible to keep it and avoid the embarrassment of having to return it. (Tip: Refuse to take possession of the car until the loan has been confirmed.)
7. Higher interest rate than merited. If the finance guy gets the loan ‘bought’ at 9% but tells you the best he could do is 9.75, he’s just made more money on the deal and raised your payments by about *ten bucks a month, or $600 over the life of the loan. *Based on a standard 60 month, $25,000 loan (Tip: Secure financing from your own lender ahead of time.)
8. 2.9% financing! No interest charge for one year! No payments for six months! Each and every one of these fantastic financing and payment options have a major caveat: only those with exemplary credit (scores in the 800’s) can qualify. (Tip: This is a way to get buyers into the store. If you don’t qualify—and few do—beware of the actual terms offered.)
9. Add-ons: Don’t let your guard down once the deal is worked out, because unless you’ve pre-secured your own financing, it’s time to face the dealership’s F&I department. And if you thought the salesman was pushy, just wait until you meet the finance person. He’ll push costly disability insurance policies, life insurance policies, extended warranty deals and more. The dealership makes big money in the financing process and the F&I guys are pushed to sell, sell, sell. (Tip: Tell the F&I guy that you know he has to offer all such policies but you are not interested in any of them.)
10. The dreaded T.O. The salesman is not the enemy. He’s just trying to sell cars. The manager, however, is evil personified when it comes to removing cash from your wallet. He seems like a nice guy, too, which is why there’s a middleman between the salesman and the manager, the T.O. person. If a deal cannot be worked with your salesmen, the manager sends in the big gun, the Turn Over guy, the Closer. The Closer wins more than he loses, and if you though the salesman was a bit pushy, you haven’t seen anything until the closer is let loose. (Tip: If you see the Closer headed your way, run!)

If you have a question you’d like our experts and community to answer, please ask your question at http://forum.iseecars.com.  To start your car search, visit http://www.iSeeCars.com to find over 2 million cars for sale across more than 11,000 websites.

By: Sarah E. Sanuth, an insider in the automotive industry  with many years of experience in the car dealership and repair business

Used car dealerships are very different than many of your new car dealerships; therefore they make most of their money a different way. They seek their inventory from very different avenues.

Your traditional new car dealership will obtain their inventory from a manufacturer, such as General Motors or Ford, on a line of credit. When a used car dealer purchases inventory, they pay cash or finance through something called a “Floor Plan.”

A “Floor Plan” is where a lender gives the dealer a line of credit that can only be used at the auto auction and has a high interest rate and very strict terms. They have to sell their inventory fast in order to make profit or they risk losing the vehicles to repossession, along with many other items the dealership owns. More fortunate dealers have the ability to obtain a normal line of credit from a regular bank. These lines are mostly unrestrictive.

When a new car dealer obtains trades in the process of a sale, they sometimes try to sell the vehicle on their lot, but when they can’t or don’t want to, they bring the car to a dealer-only auto auction. Financial institutions also bring their repossessions to these auctions.

From there, used car dealers bid on these vehicles and the highest bidder wins.

During the month of November 2008, a 2006 Chevrolet Malibu LT with 59,000 miles sold for $6,500 at one of these auctions. According to KBB.com, the value of this vehicle and what you would expect to pay for it at a used car dealership is $10,300. The dealer might have to put a small amount of repairs into the vehicle totaling about $500, which still leaves the potential for up to $3,300 profit on this one vehicle.

Used car dealers are not under any franchise agreement, therefore they can use whatever brand parts they want to repair these vehicles, saving them a vast amount in the repair department.

Now let’s say you’re purchasing this vehicle and have a trade-in. Dealers however, do not give you full boat on that trade-in. Your trade-in is a 2001 Chevrolet Cavalier LS with 100,000 miles and a book value of $1,775 trade-in and $4,680 retail. Again the dealer will not give you $1,775, but rather something closer to $1,000.

This decreases the price of the new vehicle to $9,300, making the profit for the new car $2,300 and you just gave them another $4,680. Now they might not sell the vehicle for $4,680 but rather $3,500-$4,000 just to move it, making the total profit on the sale about $5,800 minus any repairs that may need to be done to the trade-in. If they don’t sell the trade-in on their lot and rather bring it to the auction, which also in the month of November 2008, a 2001 Chevrolet Cavalier with about 100,000 miles sold for $2,100, making the profit now a total of $4,400. If they bring the vehicle to the auction, they don’t need to make any repairs. But if they do, they will see a bigger return on their money.

The older the vehicle is the smaller the profit margin. This is because older vehicles need more to repair them in order to make them salable.

Now if you are financing the vehicle, the dealership might have a relationship with the financial institution where the dealer receives a “kickback.” This is where each month, quarter or year, the dealer receives a small percentage of the interest that you have paid to the bank for bringing the bank business. This is an incentive and essentially profit for the dealer for not doing anything. If you get the financing through the dealership, it is more likely that they will receive a “kick-back.”

Used car dealers also obtain the inventory from two other sources, impact auctions and the public. An impact auction is almost the same as a regular dealer-only auction, except these vehicles have been in major accidents. Most of the components of these vehicles still work; they just have major body damage. The used car dealer will buy the parts at a huge discount and repair it themselves and sell it for full retail. There is a lot more labor that goes into it this way, but the initial cost of the vehicles is much less than the traditional auction.

Many people have vehicles that they don’t want to repair, such as a perfectly good vehicle that has a major issue, like a blown transmission or motor. They will then replace the motor or transmission and sell it for retail. Again, this is more labor than cost.

With these two means, they will spend about $2,000 on the vehicle, $2,000 in repairs (if they own the repair facility as well) and in the end have an $8,000-$10,000 vehicle. However, not all used car dealers go this route. Larger used car dealerships will just use the traditional auto auction.

Some used car dealers also make money in another way that is unique to the used car industry. Very few used car dealerships go this route, because time and headache involved in the process. This is called “Buy Here Pay Here.” This is when a dealer will finance the consumer himself, usually someone who has bad credit who couldn’t get a loan elsewhere. These vehicles are usually a little older, but still have plenty of life left in them. A dealer will purchase a car, such as the Chevrolet Cavalier mentioned above, for $1,000 and with some minor repairs, sell it for retail with interest, or above retail with no interest. The consumer makes a deposit of $1,000 and makes payments until it is paid off. However, if the vehicle is not paid off, then it will be repossessed and sold again to another “Buy Here Pay Here” customer, for what is owed with the addition of storage, repair and repossession fees.

Used car dealers make their money very differently, but there is also a higher risk involved than new car dealers. All investment is out of pocket. But keep in mind when you decide to negotiate with a used car dealer that they also have bills to pay such as rent or mortgage, electricity, heat and salaries. These costs come out of the profit margin.

If you have a question you’d like our experts and community to answer, please ask your question at http://forum.iseecars.com.  To start your car search, visit http://www.iSeeCars.com to find over 2 million cars for sale across more than 11,000 websites.

By: Sarah E. Sanuth, an insider in the automotive industry  with many years of experience in the car dealership and repair business, is guest contributing an article sharing insightful tips on finding a good reputable car dealer to buy a used car.

Sometimes buying a used car can be seen as a gamble. There are some of us who dread walking into that car dealership because we have heard all the stereotypes. Are we going to get a lemon? Are we going to get taken advantage of? But not all used car dealers are made the same.

The following are tips to aid you in finding that a good reputable used car dealer.

Ask Your Friends

Any reputable used car dealer will rely on their customers to put the word out on how they conduct business. Referrals are a dealer’s cheapest and most reliable form of advertising. Ask anyone that you know who has purchased a used vehicle and how they were treated, they will give it to you straight.

Check Consumer Reporting Agencies

When customers feel they have been wronged by a company they might report it to agencies such as The Better Business Bureau, the Attorney General’s Office and any other outlet that will give them a place to file a complaint. Take the time to check these places to see whether or not a car dealer you might want to do business with has been reported. It may give you new insight into a dealer you might have thought was reputable.

Trust your Intuition

When we get that bad or weird feeling deep down, there is usually reason for it. First impressions are lasting impressions. Trust your instinct. It has gotten you out of possible trouble before, and it won’t let you down this time either.

Ask Questions

Don’t hesitate to ask any car dealer that you are interested in doing business with some essential questions. Some of these questions might include, “Can I bring the vehicle to a mechanic before I purchase?” or “What kind of guarantee/warrantee do you offer?” The way these questions are answered is more important than the answer itself. If your questions are answered with hesitation or the ever famous “I don’t know,” the probability of getting a raw deal increases. Any questions you ask should be answered clearly and confidently.

Don’t Listen to What Car Dealerships Say about Themselves

If someone wants your business, they are going to try and tell you through any of their advertising means that they are “reputable” or the “best” in the business. While it is possibly true, it very well may not be.

How Long Has the Car Dealership Been in Business?

In the used car business there are a lot of “fly-by-night” dealerships. You may have driven down the street and seen the name of a dealership change frequently or be constantly closed down. This is usually a sign that they are in it for the quick buck or have wronged too many customers. Unless the car dealership has been in business for a least a few years, there is no guarantee that you won’t get ripped off. A simple search on your states Secretary of State website will tell you how long they have been in business.

With all the used car dealerships out there, research and time is on your side. Take the time to do the research and it can help you find that one car dealer that will treat you right for years to come.

If you have a question you’d like our experts and community to answer, please ask your question at http://forum.iseecars.com.  To start your used car search, visit http://www.iSeeCars.com  

By: Sarah E. Sanuth, is an insider in the automotive industry  with many years of experience in the car dealership and repair business

A car or auto broker is much the same as a broker in any situation, such as real estate and mortgages, who serve as a middleman between the consumer and the dealer, and sometimes the financial institution. They usually have many years in the industry, and many were once dealership owners.

While it is sometimes nice to have someone do the legwork for you, is it really beneficial to you the consumer? Here we explore the advantages and disadvantages of using such a broker with your next car purchase.

Advantages

1. Auto brokers know the ins and outs of the car buying process, even the behind the scenes stuff that you probably don’t know. They truly know how much a dealer can move on their price.

2. While car brokers may not know everything about a certain make or model, they can get advice from colleagues, which provides them with all available information at their fingertips.

3. Most charge a flat fee. This means if car brokers don’t deliver, they don’t get paid.

4. Auto brokers have a larger buying power, which can equate to a better deal.

5. Prices of vehicles range regionally, they have the power to buy a car that is farther away, which means you could save money.

6. Auto brokers will arrange delivery of the vehicle to your doorstep, usually fully reconditioned with all proper manuals for no extra charge.

The fee is small, usually between $200 and $1,000; with higher end and exotic cars costing the most The fee is typically between 1-2% for new cars and 1.5-3% for used cars. A $20,000 used cars should only cost about $350.
7. Even if you don‘t save money and just break even with fees, car brokers can save you valuable time and headache.

Disadvantages

1. Some auto brokers work on commission. This means the more you pay, the more they get paid.

2. There’s a high likelihood the auto broker knows the dealer. Personal involvement can equal conflict of interest.

3. They may not shop around. Sometimes used car brokers use a single or a handful of dealers. Some are employees of a dealership, which means they don’t work for you and aren’t looking out for your best interest.

4. Depending on your state laws, an auto broker may not be required to be licensed or bonded. This means they may not be regulated by the state.

5. Some car brokers get paid by the dealership, not you.

6. Many car brokers only handle new cars.

7. You may not be physically able to check out the vehicle yourself. You will have to rely on pictures and their word. Some don’t have a mechanic or mechanic experience to properly check out a used car.
8. There is usually no guarantee included with the vehicle. If you purchase it and it dies, you have to foot the bill.

9. Some discount clubs like AAA or Checkbook.org offer car buying services for little to no cost. So, check with them before looking for a broker.

Whether you decide to use a car broker for your next purchase, or do the foot work yourself; there are a few things that you need to do to protect yourself. If you decide to use one, ask these questions to ensure you’re dealing with an honest broker:

1. How do you get paid? Flat fee or commission?
2. Who do you work for? (A real broker will not have any association with a dealership.)
3. How do you find the vehicles?
4. Are you licensed and bonded? (You can check your local government’s website as well.)
5. Do you have a mechanic to inspect vehicles?
6. What is the guarantee? (A reputable broker will allow you 72 hours to have the vehicle inspected by your own certified mechanic and if there are issues, fix it. But anything after that period is on you. Make sure you read the fine print.)

And always check consumer review websites to see how others experiences have been with any specific auto broker you’re considering. You can even go a step further and call dealerships in the broker’s area to see how well they know the broker.

If you have a question you’d like our experts and community to answer, please ask your question at  http://forum.iseecars.com.  To start your used car search, visit http://www.iSeeCars.com  

By: Sarah E. Sanuth, is an insider in the automotive industry  with many years of experience in the car dealership and repair business, is guest contributing an article sharing insightful tips on buying a good used car and what to look for in test driving a used car.

Taking a vehicle on a test-drive before buying it is a must. However, many of us don’t always know what we’re looking for; all we know is that we are supposed to. The following checklist / tips will help you make the most out of that test drive and buy a good used car.

1. Bring this checklist and a friend with you. The person doesn’t have to be a car guru but would be helpful in providing an extra set of eyes and ears. Have your friend write down the answers to the below questions and anything that you might hear, see or experience.

2. Make sure the vehicle is on a level, clean surface and start it. Allow it to warm up. Does it crank over right away? If it doesn’t, this indicates a starter or charging system failure.

3. After it is warm, while the vehicle is still running, check the transmission fluid. Does it read full and are there excessive bubbles on the dipstick? Bubbles could indicate excessive air or a breakdown inside the transmission.

4. Turn the vehicle off and check the oil. Is the level just right and does it look relatively clean with no lumps or debris? Oil changes are vital, it’s the vehicles blood; if it is dirty, oil changes weren’t done properly. If it appears milky, coolant is mixing with the oil in which case do not drive it; it means the head gasket or the engine is or about to go.

5. Start the vehicle again and take a walk around. Is there any overspray in the door jambs and do the hinges line-up properly? If you see these, this indicates that the vehicle has been in an accident and repaired; and should be priced accordingly.

6. Check underneath the vehicle. Look for any excessive rust or rot. Is there any fluid on the ground? If so, there is a leak somewhere that needs to be fixed.

7. Check all electrical components and accessories such as the HVAC system, interior and exterior lights, radio, power locks, windows, and seats. Does everything work properly?

8. Never use the radio while on a test-drive so you can pay full attention to the car and driving experience.

9. Drive a minimum of 30 minutes. You have to get the engine up to temperature in order for certain problems to expose themselves.

10. Drive off and on the highway. Do you like how the vehicle handles and steers?

11. Are all the gauges on the instrument panel working properly? Pay close attention to the temperature gauge. If it appears that it is not working properly, it could have either been disconnected to hide an overheating issue or the instrument panel needs to be replaced, which is costly. This could also mean the mileage is not correct.

12. Take plenty of turns, sharp and wide. On turns, listen for any whining and clicking sounds. These sounds will let you know there is a steering or axle issue. How does the vehicle hug the road?

13. Drive uphill and downhill. Does the vehicle lag or downshift properly? If it lags, the transmission may be on its way out.

14. Accelerate fast without flooring it. Does the transmission slam into gear or hesitate? This would also indicate a transmission problem.

15. Test the braking system in all scenarios. Slam on the brakes in a safe place. The vehicle should stop with no issues. Check the emergency brake. Does it hold the vehicle on a hill and stop the vehicle?

16. When you are done, while still in the vehicle take a look around, reach in the backseat. Is the vehicle comfortable? How was the ride itself? Was it too bumpy? Did you have a good view? Do you have enough head, leg and hip room? Sit in the back seat. Is there enough room back there as well? Check the trunk. Is there enough room to put what you need?

17. Make sure you write everything down. This will be your biggest comparing tool. If you’re going to check out another vehicle, do it right away while your thoughts are still fresh.

18. Don’t buy it right away. Wait until the next day and take it for another drive. This time, take it to an independent mechanic. Have them check out the vehicle and give them your list. This will aid them in either confirming your suspicions or putting them to rest.

Take the time to check every area of the vehicle. This will ensure that you make the right decision in buying a used car and leave nothing to surprise.

When you are in the market for a used car purchase, there are a number of factors to consider. Your finances, your personal taste, and your experience with vehicles all play a role in determining where you should turn. This is especially true if one of these categories presents a challenge (such as having a limited amount of funds or knowing virtually nothing about used cars). While there is no single, ideal way to buy a used car, there are pros and cons to help you weigh in on where to purchase your next used car — buying from a New Car Dealership, Used Car Dealership or from a private party or private sellers.

Pros and Cons of Buying from a Dealership

Buying a used car from a dealership is one of the most popular choices for consumers today.  Some people consider it a “safe” alternative to buying from a stranger. However, as with most sales venues, there are two sides to this option.

There are 2 types of dealerships.  One type is New Car Dealerships (also known as Franchise Dealerships that work with a specific auto manufacturer) which sell new cars but also carry used cars from trade-ins.  The other type is Used Car Dealerships which only sell used cars; they procure used cars primarily from car auctions.

Pros and Cons of Buying from a New Car Dealership

Pros:

• New car dealers typically offer Certified Used Cars which specifies that their used cars have been looked over by a qualified mechanic and have not been in any undisclosed accident.   Oftentimes, the sale of a Certified Used Car comes with some sort of mileage or length of time warranty.  Many dealers will also throw in a free year’s worth (or even life-of-the-car’s worth) of car washes or oil changes.
• New car dealerships generally have a large selection of vehicles to choose from providing a better chance to find the specific make, model, color and options you want.
• Additionally, the cars at a new car dealership are probably of better quality that are newer, later model cars with low mileage.  Most of the time, these cars are the trade-ins and previously leased vehicles that are in better condition than those sold off at auctions.  They are also more likely to carry the manufacturer’s original warranty.
• The service may be better at new car dealers since there are certain customer satisfaction standards they need to meet from auto manufacturers.

Cons

• Cost is also a pretty big factor in buying used cars from a dealership. Although not every vehicle will be grossly overpriced, you will almost always pay more for a vehicle from a dealer than you would with a private seller. After all, you’re paying for business overhead, salaries, and the owner’s profits.
• Car dealerships don’t necessarily have a great reputation for treating customers fairly.  It is probably also a case of a few rotten apples spoiling the good ones.  Part of the problem is that because most car salesmen work on commission, it is in their best interest to get you to drive home with any car – no matter what while pocketing as big a profit as they can.  (CarMax, one of the largest car dealers, is one example of a dealership offering no haggle pricing where the sales people are compensated based on volume rather than profit).  Car dealerships can also be intimidating, especially if you don’t know too much about cars.
• This is not to say there aren’t reputable dealers out there.  Just make sure to get suggestions from your friends and colleagues.  Check with the Better Business Bureau (BBB.org) to see if a certain car dealership has had prior complaints and how those complaints were handled.

Pros and Cons of Buying from a Used Car Dealership

Used car dealerships are often times small businesses and mom and pop operations.  They are also called independent dealerships (presumably independent from an auto manufacturer unlike a Franchise dealers) and there are many more of these dealerships than there are new car dealerships.   Used car dealerships typically get their cars from auctions and less so from trade-ins.

Pros:

• The prices at used car dealerships are generally lower than a new car dealership partly because they have less overhead.
• There’s also a good number of cars on the lot for you to choose from (CarMax.com is one of the largest used car dealers selling many makes and models)

Cons

• Cars at a used car lot are typically sold with no warranty
• The cars at a used car dealership are also of lower quality and older than those at a new car dealership.
• Used car dealers are not known for their stellar reputation.  There’s tendency to do whatever it takes to sell a car even if some of those sales tactics are questionable.  As with a new car dealer, make sure to check resources like the Better Business Bureau and do searches on Google to see if there are user reviews of the dealer (dealerrater.com which allows users to comment on their experience shopping at particular dealerships, is also a good source to consult).

Pros and Cons of Buying from a Private Party

Pros:

• One of the biggest upsides to buying a used car from a private seller is the price.  Private party sellers typically don’t have any overhead in running a business, they don’t work on commission, and they are often motivated to sell at any price. If you know what you’re looking for as well as the value of the used car you’re considering, you can drive away with a really great deal.
• One way to get a good deal on a car is to buy cars from private sellers who must sell either because they need to move out of town or country or they need the money.
• Buying from a private seller can also get you access to all of the car’s history. This is especially true if the private seller has been the sole owner of the car. He or she will know every accident, every mechanical problem, and even the slight eccentricities of the radio.  Assuming you are negotiating with someone who is trustworthy, this can provide you with an invaluable look at the car’s details.

Cons:

• When private parties sell a used car, truck, or SUV, they often have some level of emotional attachment to the vehicle. They also typically have a frame of reference for the cost they originally paid, and they may feel that they deserve a close (if not equal) payout from you. Both of these can lead to the occasional overpricing of the used vehicle.
• There is also no guarantee that the car you’re getting is in good shape. Unless you have your own mechanic check out the car and give it a thumbs up (or you know enough about cars yourself), you may end up driving home with a lemon – and have no legal recourse to rely on to get your money back.
• Probably takes a bit more time and effort than going to a dealership since one private party or individual may only have one car to sell.

The Bottom Line

Buying a used car can be a time-intensive and complicated process, but it doesn’t have to be overwhelming. As long as you know what to expect from used car dealerships as well as private party sellers, you can make an educated decision that will save you time, money, and future mechanical breakdowns.

If you have a question you’d like our experts and community to answer, please ask your question at  http://forum.iseecars.com.  To start your used car search, visit http://www.iSeeCars.com  

Buy a used car instead of a new one and you could unearth a real gem of a deal.  But there’s also the possibility that the brightest, shiniest gems you find turn out to be nothing more than camouflaged lemons.

How do you sort out the duds from the studs in your search for used cars? A professional mechanic you trust should perform an inspection on any used car you’re thinking of buying. This applies not only to used cars for sale by owner, but to vehicles from used car dealerships as well.

But before you make an appointment to take that used Honda, used BMW, or whatever kind of used car for sale that has piqued your interest to your trusted mechanic, you could perform a basic inspection yourself.  If you spot a lemon early enough, you can skip the professional inspection, saving you time and money.

So make sure you bring along a flashlight, some paper towels, a hand-held mirror, and a small magnet. It’s a good idea to bring a notebook and writing utensil as well to record your results and some hand sanitizer to clean up. If the car has a stereo, you might want to bring a CD or cassette, too, to test to see if the system still works. With all of this on hand, here is used car inspection checklist for the eleven points you should inspect before deciding to buy the used car.  It could also help you in your negotiations depending on the issues you find.

1. Check the car history report

Ask for the used vehicle’s VIN number. The seller should have the number available on his or her insurance card or the vehicle title.  But you should still confirm the number yourself.  The number is typically located beneath the vehicle’s windshield. Use this VIN number to order a car history report.  You can visit an online service like Carfax or AutoCheck to get a full history report on the car.  This step is crucial; accident and repair history are essential in determining if that shiny coat of paint is hiding something!

2. Check the condition of the used vehicle’s body

Walk around the entire length of the car and bend down and use the flashlight and mirror to look at some out-of-sight seams. Are the gaps around the doors even? Are there signs of rust, particularly above the tires? (This is likely due to salt on the roads in the winter, but it could be signs of a previous accident.) Is the color mismatched in any place? Use the magnet to see if the body is actual metal or Bondo, which is often used in vehicle restoration.

3.  Check the tires

What’s the brand of the tires? Are they worn? Are there any cracks? What about the condition of the rims?

4.  Check the engine

Make sure the engine is off (and has been for a time) and pop the hood. Bring along your paper towels. Is the engine relatively clean? Are there any signs of rust? Pop off the oil filler cap. Are there any thick black deposits? (This isn’t a good sign.)

5.  Check the engine’s oil

Make sure the car is still off.  Pull out the dipstick, wipe it as clean as you can with the paper towel, insert the dipstick back into the engine, and pull it out again. There should be “full” and “low” indicators. How high is the current level of oil? Is it a pale amber color (good) or a dark, sludgy color (bad)?

6.  Check the automatic transmission fluid

Make sure the car is level, the transmission is in park, and the parking break is on. Turn on the car’s engine. After it idles for a time, pull out the transmission dipstick and wipe it with a paper towel. Place it back and pull it out again. If the car had just been turned on, the fluid should be in between the “cold” indicators. (If it had been driven for a time directly prior to this check, expect it to be within the “hot” indicators.) It should also be a clear reddish color. A brown, sludgy color means it has not been maintained.

If the transmission is manual, you can skip this step. However, when you take the used car for a test drive, make sure that all gear shifts are smooth and that, when driving in second or third gear, a sudden acceleration doesn’t make the clutch slip.

7.  Check the brake fluid level

If it’s low, it could be leaking and/or the brake pads could be wearing.

8.  Check the engine coolant

Make sure it’s relatively full and a yellowish-green color.

9.  Do a final under-hood check with the flashlight and mirror

Does the fan belt look worn? Is anything rusty or leaking? (The air conditioning condenser may be leaking slightly if it has just been used, but this is normal.)

10.   Check the interior of the car

Are the seats worn or stained? How about the flooring? Do the visors and cupholders stick? What’s the condition of the seatbelts?

11.  Test the electrical features

Make sure to try the car’s indoor lights and the power window controls. Turn on the car to test both the air conditioning and the heat. Here’s also when you can test the music system with the CD or cassette and rock out while you decide if you’ve got a real gem or lemon on your hands!

For more information on used cars, visit blog.iseecars.com which provides tips, advice, and commentary on searching and buying used cars.  The blog is written by the team at iSeeCars.com, a search engine for used cars for sale, created by guys who think buying used cars are better than buying new and who are passionate about building a better tool for users to search for used cars.