Blog

By Suzanne Kane

Looking for an affordable, yet reliable small or compact used car? Get ready to do some research on your own, but first take a look at the results from Consumer Reports. The magazine analyzed data from their Annual Auto Survey, Reliable Used Cars and Used Cars to Avoid to come up with their Best of the Best used vehicle lists in various categories. The models include those from years 1999 through 2008 and are not specific as to year. Highlights from various years for each of the magazine’s picks are featured here. These top 5 used small and compact cars can serve as the starting point in your research for your new used set of affordable wheels.

• Honda Civic (2001-2006) – Consumer Reports calls the Honda Civic “reliable, economical and fun,” and highlights three model years. Honda redesigned the Civic in 2001, the 7th generation for the model. Available in coupe and sedan as well as 2-door hatchback Civic Si, the car was powered by a 117-hp 1.7-liter engine (127 horsepower in EX). The Civic hybrid debuted in 2003, powered by an 85-hp 1.3-liter 4-cylinder engine and a 13-hp electric motor. At the time, Honda Civic hybrid achieved 46 mpg city/51 mpg highway. In 2006, with its 8th generation all-new redesign, the Civic, available in sedan and coupe in DX, LX, and EX trim, and Si models, were powered by a single overhead cam (SOHC) 140-hp 1.8-liter inline 4-cylinder engine (Si had the 197-hp 2.0 liter engine). Standard equipment included anti-lock brakes (ABS), curtain air bags and improved ride. The hybrid, with its now 110-hp 1.3-liter 4-cylinder gas engine and integrated electric motor, achieved EPA fuel economy (at the time) of 50 mpg city/50 mpg highway. New EPA fuel economy ratings put the 2006 Honda Civic hybrid at a 42 mpg combined rating (40 mpg city/45 mpg highway). Edmunds.com shows dealer retail price ranges for used Honda Civics from $5,274 (2001 models) to $18,167 for 2006 models.

• Toyota Echo (2000-2005) – Toyota launched the Echo in 2000 in an attempt to bring younger buyers into the Toyota lineup with a mostly bare-bones model. Powered by a 108-hp 1.5-liter inline 4-cylinder engine, Echo was available in coupe and sedan. Fuel economy at the time ranged in the mid-30s mpg, considered among the best for a non-hybrid model. Most features were optional to keep the prices low. Standard equipment included AM/FM four-speaker audio, tilt steering and 14-inch wheels. In 2001, side airbags were available, and in 2003, when Echo was restyled, 15-inch wheels were offered. In its final years, Toyota made Echo a special-order vehicle, causing its sales to plummet. EPA fuel economy (new) ratings for the 2005 Echo with manual transmission are 30 mpg city/38 mpg highway and 28 mpg city/36 mpg highway in the automatic. Edmunds.com posts dealer retail used vehicle prices for the 2000 to 2005 Echo from about $4,393 to $7,468.

• Scion xB (2004-2008) – Toyota’s next new entry, Scion xB wagon, designed to lure younger buyers debuted in 2003 as a 2004 model and was only available in California. After a gradual rollout to markets like New York, Texas and Florida, Scion xB went nationwide in the 2005 model year. Part of the vehicle’s allure is its ability to be personalized, a big attraction for younger buyers. Standard equipment in the 1st-generation Scion xB includes ABS, stability and traction control, air conditioning, MP3-compatible CD player, power windows/mirrors/locks, 15-inch steel wheels and choice of plastic wheel covers. The powerplant from 2004-2005 was the 108-hp 1.5-liter inline 4-cylinder engine, available with manual or automatic transmission. In 2006, the horsepower dropped to 103 due to new SAE certification procedures. Edmunds.com cites the vehicle’s used car price range at about $8,677 (2004) to around $14,417 (2008). EPA fuel economy (new) numbers for the 2004-2005 Scion xB are 27 mpg city/32 mpg highway (manual) and 26 mpg city/31 mpg highway (automatic). For 2006, the numbers are 26 mpg city/31 mpg highway (manual) and 26 mpg city/30 mpg highway (automatic).

• Toyota Corolla (1999-2008) – Toyota’s 8th generation Corolla (1998-2000) featured an all-new (for 1998) all-aluminum 120-hp 1.8-liter dual overhead cam (DOHC) 4-cylinder engine. It was available in sedan only, and in base VE, midline CE and uplevel LE trim. ABS was optional as well as side airbags and CD package. In 2000, VVT-I variable vale timing was added to the 1.8-liter engine, boosting horsepower to 125. Corolla became a low emission vehicle (LEV). The 9th generation (2003-2008) featured a redesign to appeal to younger buyers. Corolla models included base CD, luxury LE or sporty S, powered by a 126-hp 1.8-liter DOHC 4-cylinder engine. ABS was optional. The 2007 Corolla was named as one of the J.D. Power and Associates highest quality compact cars. In new EPA numbers, fuel economy ranges from 28 mpg city/37 mpg highway (manual) and 26/25 mpg city/ 36/30 mpg highway (4-speed vs. 3-speed automatic) for 2002 models to 28 mpg city/37 mpg highway (manual) and 26 mpg city/35 mpg highway (automatic) for 2008 models. According to Edmunds.com, dealer retail price range for used Corollas runs from $3,696-$4,090 (1998) to $11,979-$13,289 (2008)

• Toyota Matrix/Pontiac Vibe (2003-2008) – Both models are listed in Consumer Reports best used small/compact cars and both are fraternal twins from a Toyota/General Motors collaboration. They are, however, distinctively different-looking vehicles. Introduced in 2003, the Matrix took the place of the Corolla wagon. Matrix and Vibe both are powered by the base 130-hp 1.8-liter 4-cylinder engine (123 horsepower in all-wheel drive and 180 horsepower in XRS front-wheel drive or Vibe GT). Matrix came in standard, XR and XRS trim. Vibe came in base and GT models, with front- or all-wheel drive. ABS was standard on AWD and GT models and optional in base. Dual front airbags were standard with seat-mounted side airbags optional. Toyota Matrix, according to Edmunds.com, has dealer retail used prices that range from $9,898 (2003) to $14,378 in 2008. Consumer Guide lists used vehicle prices for Matrix from 2003-2008 from $6,800 to $15,900 and for Vibe from about $7,000 to $14,600. New EPA fuel economy ratings for 2003 2004 Matrix and Vibe models are 25 mpg city/30 mpg highway in automatic (Vibe is 31 mpg highway) and 25/22 mpg city/ 33/28 mpg highway (for 5 speed/6-speed manual, while Vibe 6-speed gets 29 mpg highway). For 2005-2006, automatic numbers for both are 25 mpg city/31 mpg highway, and 26/22 mpg city/ 33/29 mpg highway for the 5-speed/6-speed manual. In 2007-2008, the numbers for both Matrix and Vibe are 25 mpg city/31 mpg highway for automatic and 26 mpg city/33 mpg highway for the 5-speed manual.

For more unbiased tips & advice on car buying and selling, see http://blog.iseecars.com.  To start your car search, visit http://www.iSeeCars.com , a leading search engine for finding over 2 million cars for sale from more than 11,000 websites.

Once it was the king of the road, so to speak, at least in terms of family versatility and popularity. But the minivan, which debuted in the mid-1980s with the introduction of the Dodge Caravan and Plymouth Voyager, is definitely on the decline, according to the editors of Consumer Guide. Although it’s been replaced by more popular crossover vehicles, the minivan still serves the needs of many families across America. It costs less to buy, less to insure, and less to maintain than full-size vans, SUVS and some crossovers.

Minivans come in three sizes: compact, regular and large. For 2009, there are 8 minivans available: Chrysler Town & Country, Dodge Grand Caravan, Honda Odyssey, Hyundai Entourage, Kia Sedona, Nissan Quest, Toyota Sienna and Volkswagen Routan.

If the prices of brand-new minivans is not in your reach and you’re looking to buy used, you may well ask what the best used minivans are. Consumer Reports, in their Best of the Best lists of various vehicle segments, lists only two: Toyota Sienna and Honda Odyssey. Their research includes vehicles from 1999 through 2008 and includes only vehicles with multiple years of above-average reliability. Listed here are the major design and/or equipment changes for these two minivans, along with pertinent EPA fuel economy numbers and crash-test ratings.

Toyota Sienna

First introduced in 1998, the Toyota Sienna is a good choice, new or used, according to Edmunds.com. Posting good crash-test scores, Sienna has exceptional reputation for both long-term overall dependability and overall quality, Edmunds’ editors say. A look at the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) reveals Toyota Sienna scored 5 stars for driver frontal and 4 stars for passenger frontal and 5 stars for driver and passenger in side-impact tests from 2000-2003. In 2004, Sienna earned a 5-star rating in frontal and side impact testing. From 2005-2009, Odyssey’s NHTSA ratings were 4-star driver frontal, 5-star passenger frontal and 5 stars in side-impact testing.

First-generation Toyota Sienna (1998-2003) models seat up to 7 passengers. There was no fold-flat seating in the 3rd row. The first-generation did post excellent crash test scores, had a great ride and a respectable 210 horsepower 3.0-liter V-6 engine. Consumer Reports says the first-generation has “refined design, cut tight space in the 3rd row.”

The right side power door appeared in the 1999 model year. Front seat airbags and stability control became optional in 2001. Also in 2001, dealer-installed rear-seat entertainment system was available, although it was VHS. If you’re looking to buy a Toyota Sienna from that time period, you’re better off to install your own DVD system.

The second-generation Toyota Sienna debuted in 2003 as a 2004 model, powered by a 215-hp 3.3-liter V-6 engine. Consumer Reports hails the redesigned model as “roomier, more powerful, with available all-wheel drive (AWD), and overall good reliability.” You may want to buy a 2005 and newer Sienna, since Toyota strengthened the side structure in 2005 and revised the side airbags to improve performance in side-impact crashes. Side airbags were standard on all Sienna models in the 2006 model year. Before that time, side airbags were standard only on the XLE Limited, and optional on other trims.

Edmunds.com lists used Toyota Sienna dealer retail prices ranging from $4,785 (1998) to $28,743 (2008). For 2009, Toyota Sienna base prices range from $24,540 to $37,865. Offering 7- or 8-passenger seating and a 230-hp 3.3-liter V-6 engine, the 2009 model is well-equipped and benefits from Toyota’s reputation for strong resale value. EPA fuel economy range for 2009 models is 17 to 23 mpg. Toyota Sienna is the only 2009 minivan available with AWD for better traction control on slick roads.

Honda Odyssey (2001-2006)

While Honda Odyssey has been around since the first-generation (1995-1998), Consumer Reports lists the second-generation (2001-2006) as the best used minivans. From 1999 to 2004, Odyssey was available in front-wheel drive (FWD) only in LX and EX (EX featured the dual power-sliding doors). Power came from a 210-hp 3.5-liter V-6 engine (240 horsepower from 2000 to 2004). Anti-lock brakes (ABS) were standard, 2nd-row seats folded or could be easily removed, and 3rd-row seats folded flat into the floor.

In 2005 models, Odyssey was redesigned (its third-generation model), with only minor changes through 2008. Available in EX, EX-L and Touring, Odyssey boasted a 244-hp V-6 that still qualified as an Ultra Low Emission Vehicle (ULEV-2) by the California Air Resources Board (CARB). EPA fuel economy was 20 mpg city/28 mpg highway – the highest in the segment, according to the 2005 EPA Fuel Economy Guide. Touring trim included the Honda DVD rear entertainment system.

In NHTSA testing, Honda Odyssey from 2001-2009 achieved a 5-star rating in frontal and side-impact tests.

Edmunds lists used Odyssey dealer retail prices ranging from $2,913 (1995) to $33,341 (2008). For 2009, Honda Odyssey dealer retail prices range from $24,214 to $37,355. Consumer Guide lists 2009 prices ranging from $26,255 to $41,605, and EPA fuel economy at 16 mpg city/23 mpg highway.

What To Look For

Using these two minivans as a starting point, compare other available minivans out there. Consider their NHTSA crash-test ratings, EPA fuel economy, costs to buy, insure and maintain. Also check the vehicle’s maintenance records to ensure it’s been serviced properly.

As for features: look for good V-6 power, seats that are easy to adjust (reconfigurable 2nd-row seats, 3rd row that folds flat), rear air conditioning, entertainment system, storage containers, power sliding doors, and overall comfort.

Are there other really great used minivans? You bet. Consumers have their favorites, as indicated by blog postings all over the Web. But you have to start somewhere, so use these two that Consumer Reports list as the best and go from there.

For more unbiased tips & advice on car buying and selling, see http://blog.iseecars.com.  To start your car search, visit http://www.iSeeCars.com , a leading search engine for finding over 2 million cars for sale from more than 11,000 websites with ONE SEARCH.

Pickup trucks are more than just workhorse vehicles. They’re tough, true, but they’re also packed with  car-like features, the latest in safety technology, comfort and convenience. And, they’re expensive. But the good news is that you can find great deals in used pickup trucks – if you shop wisely.

To help you on your search for just the right used pickup truck to suit your needs, check out this Top 5 Best Used Pickup Trucks list. Consumer Reports is responsible for the list, garnered from their research and data on the “Best of the Best” in terms of their overall scores in reliability for the years 1999 through 2008. To be on the list, each model has to have 3 years of reliability. Note that if no specific year is listed, we’ve chosen representative years with significant styling and/or content changes and additions.

Are there other great used pickup trucks out there beside these top 5? Of course there are. Just use this guide as a starting point and then widen your search.

• Honda Ridgeline (2006-2008) – Consumer Reports gives the Honda Ridgeline midsize pickup truck its number one spot in the best used pickup truck category. Why? The editors clearly found that it’s the most reliable over time. We found several reasons why Ridgeline, first introduced by Honda in 2006 as its initial pickup truck entry, should be at the top of your used pickup short list. In its first year, three trims were offered: RT, RTS and RTL. In 2008, RTX was added (but dropped in 2009). The four-door crew cab compact pickup with seating for five combines the utility of a truck with a sedan’s ride and handling. Powered by a smooth and responsive 247-hp (250 horsepower in the 2009 model) 3.5-liter all-aluminum V-6 engine, Ridgeline also has an easy access cabin with nice appointments and detail, and a weather-tight lockable trunk that’s in the 5-foot bed. Tow capacity is 5,000 pounds. Standard equipment includes anti-lock brakes (ABS), stability and traction control, front and curtain side airbags, all-wheel drive (AWD). Edmunds.com lists dealer retail used car price ranges from about $16,367 (2006 base model) to $30,108 (2008 top of the line RTL). Fuel economy ratings estimated by the EPA for the V-6 engine are 15 mpg city/20 mpg highway (2006-2009 models). Ridgeline also has a 5-star frontal and side impact rating from the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA).

• Toyota Tacoma (2005-2008) – Toyota redesigned Tacoma for the second time in 2005 (it was introduced in 1995). Available in a variety of body styles and trims, the Tacoma midsize pickup was powered in 2005 by an all-new 164-hp 2.7-liter 4-cylinder or 245-hp 4.0-liter V-6 engine. Both were available in 2WD or 4WD. Three cab styles were offered (regular, extended and crew) and either short or long pickup bed lengths. ABS was standard, while stability control was optional. Most options were available in packages, such as the Off-Road, Sport or SR-5 (in 2008). Maximum towing capacity when properly equipped in 2008 models was 6,500 pounds. The Tacoma earned a 5-star rating in NHTSA frontal and side impact tests in regular and extended cab in 2006-2008. The crew cab also earned 5 stars in these tests from 2006-2008. Edmunds lists dealer retail prices ranging from $9,445 (2005) to $22,199 (2008).

• Toyota Tundra (2006-2008) – Available since its introduction in 2000, the Toyota Tundra is a rear-wheel drive (RWD) full-size pickup truck. In 2006, two engines were offered, a 236-hp 4.0-liter V-6 or a 271-hp 4.7-liter V-8. Both came in 2WD or 4WD. EPA fuel economy was 14 mpg city/21 mpg highway for the 2WD V-6 and 14/17 mpg for the 2WD V-8 and 13/16 for 4WD V-8. Maximum tow rating was 7,100 pounds. The base model included ABS standard, while in the Limited you got alloy wheels, CD in-dash changer, power windows/mirrors/locks and many features that were optional on the SR5 trim. In 2007, Tundra was completely redesigned and added a beefier 381-hp 5.7-liter V-8 engine as optional with EPA estimated fuel economy at 14 mpg city/18 mpg highway. Towing capacity maximum increased to 10,800 pounds. Edmunds lists used dealer retail prices ranging from $9,994 (2006) to $35,527 (2008).

• Subaru Baja (2003-2006) – By anyone’s classification, this is a fish/fowl type of vehicle. You either love it or hate it. Subaru introduced the Baja crew cab pickup in 2003 and it was only available through 2006. Initially, the powerplant was a 165-hp 2.5 flat-4 cylinder engine mated to a standard 5-speed manual (EPA estimated 18 mpg city/23 mpg highway) or optional 4-speed automatic, but by 2004, that was increased with a 210-hp turbocharged version 2.5. In 2006, the 5-speed manual V-6 got 20 mpg city/26 mpg highway (regular fuel). The AWD vehicle featured a versatile cargo bed, a midgate that folded down to increase the bed size to 5 feet, and nice trim levels. Standard trim included ABS, AC, leather seating, full power accessories, and CD player and 16-inch wheels. The Sport was base but with manual transmission. Edmunds lists used vehicle dealer retail prices ranging from $10,662 (2003) to $20,498 (2006).

• Nissan Frontier (2005-2008) – The second generation Nissan Frontier bowed in 2005 as a bigger, more powerful compact pickup truck entry that was redesigned inside and out. Extended and crew cab and three trims were available. Two engines were offered, a 154-hp 2.5-liter 4-cylinder or a 265-hp 4.0-liter V-6. Either manual or automatic transmission and 2WD or 4WD were available. EPA fuel economy was 19/23 (manual) and 17/22 (automatic) for the 2WD 4-cylinder and 15/20 (manual) and 14/19 (automatic) for 2WD V-6. In 4WD, the numbers were 15/19 (manual) and 14/19 (automatic). The numbers varied only slightly through 2008. ABS was standard, while front-seat side-impact and curtain airbags were optional. A long bed version was added in 2007, and in 2008, a technology package with Bluetooth and auxiliary audio jack. Edmunds lists used vehicle dealer retail prices ranging from $10,100 (2005) to $23,304 (2008).

For more unbiased tips & advice on car buying and selling, see http://blog.iseecars.com.  To start your car search, visit http://www.iSeeCars.com , a leading search engine for finding over 2 million cars for sale from more than 11,000 websites with ONE SEARCH.

Family cars are a basic necessity for millions of Americans. But they don’t have to be stodgy, boring boxes on wheels. Automakers have stepped up their game in recent years by offering stylish, comfortable and technologically advanced vehicles that appeal to every demographic. Looking for a new, used family car to suit your family’s needs?

We’ve compiled a list of the Top 5 Best Used Family Cars, based on the research from Consumer Reports in their annual tracking study of best used vehicles by segment. The magazine doesn’t list specific years for each of the top 5, but does consider models from the last 10 years in terms of reliability and customer satisfaction.

Although you can certainly find others, and should consider others on your shopping list, start with these for a leg-up on your new set of family wheels.

• Honda Accord (2003-2008) – Editors of Consumer Reports give the Honda Accord midsize coupe and sedan great marks for its track record of reliability, and put it at the top of the used-car choices for family cars. Its 7th generation redesign in 2003 (which lasted until 2007) resulted in standard anti-lock brakes (ABS), and a much more quiet and agile vehicle. Powertrains included a 160-hp 2.4-liter inline 4-cylinder engine and a 240-hp 3.0 liter V-6 engine. Three trim levels were offered: base DX, more contented LX and luxury EX. Traction control was optional on V-6 models. The Honda Accord Hybrid sedan debuted in 2005 with a 255-hp gasoline/electric V-6 powertrain. In 2006, Accord V-6 models received standard electronic stability control (ESC). The 2008 redesign included standard ESC on all models. Editors at Edmunds.com say that the 6th generation (1998-2002) is very popular on the used car market (with used car prices ranging from about $3,589-$9,242), while budget-minded consumers can find good picks among the 1994-1997 crop ($2,200-$3,418). Edmunds lists used car prices for 2003-2007 Accords at $8,122-$22,482, while the used 2008 models range from $17,314-$25,626. Consumer Guide, another pricing source, lists price ranges for 2003-2007 Accords at $6,800-$20.900.

• Toyota Prius – First appearing in the U.S. in 2000 as a 2001 model (some seven months behind the Honda Insight), the Toyota Prius hybrid may have been second to market, but it soon made up ground. In 2003, the 2nd generation Prius hatchback (lasting from 2004 to 2009 model years) featured a more powerful engine, still in 4-door hatchback design, but more carrying versatility. By 2005, sales had climbed to nearly 108,000 in the U.S. The all-new 3rd generation design bows in the 2010 model. Buyers looking for good used Prius models can find reasonable prices in the 2002-2003 versions, when Toyota added navigation system, side airbags and cruise control as options. Edmunds.com says that 1st generation Prius owners have been very happy with the car’s overall quality and reliability. Look for prices ranging from about $9,335 for a used 2001 Prius to about $21,337 for a 2008 model, per Edmunds.

• Ford Fusion (2006-2009) – For good reliability and affordability, you can’t go wrong with a Ford Fusion. Originally introduced for the 2006 model year as front-wheel drive (FWD), with S, SE and SEL trim, Fusion was powered by a standard 160-hp 2.3-liter 4-cylinder engine and manual transmission (or optional automatic). For more power, you could get an optional 231-hp 3.0-liter V-6 and 6-speed automatic on the SE and SEL. In 2007, changes included standard front seat airbags, side curtain airbags and auxiliary audio jack. Options included navigation system, satellite radio, all-wheel drive (AWD) and more standard equipment on SE and SEL. Ford’s Sync system was added in 2008, along with standard ABS. In 2009, traction control was made standard, and ESC was optional. Edmunds lists used Fusion prices ranging from $10,302 for the 2006 model to $22,660 for the 2009.

• Mercury Milan (2006-2009) – Corporate twin to the Ford Fusion, with the same I-4 and V-6 powertrains, the midsize Mercury Milan featured more refined interior and additional appointments. The base 2006 model included keyless entry, 6-way power driver’s seat, and premium 6-speaker stereo with MP3 capability, cruise control, full power accessories, and split-folding rear seat. ABS, front seat-mounted side airbags and curtain airbags were optional in 2006 and standard in 2007. AWD was available on V-6 Fusions in 2007. Navigation system was optional in 2007 and Microsoft Sync (in collaboration with Ford) was optional in 2008. Edmunds lists used vehicle prices for the 2006-2009 Fusion ranging from $10,778 to $24,010.

• Toyota Camry (except 2008 V-6) – Always high on the list of reliable used vehicles, Toyota Camry for 2002-2006 (all-new in 2002) is a comfortable, roomy sedan with choice of 154-hp 2.4-liter inline 4-cylinder or 190-hp 3.0-liter V-6 engine. Depending on model and trim level, ESC and side-curtain airbags were available. ABS was not standard in base Camry models prior to 2005. The 6th generation redesign occurred in 2007, with a modest horsepower boost to 159 in the 4-cylinder engine and a potent 268-hp 3.5-liter V-6 engine mated to a new 6-speed automatic transmission. LE, SE and XLE trims are available. Seven airbags, ESC, ABS and tire pressure monitor are standard across all models. Edmunds lists prices for used Toyota Camrys ranging from $3,366 for a 1997 model, to $7,389-$16,973 (2002-2006), and $13,638-$22,400 (2007-2008). An all-new Camry bows for the 2010 model year.

For more unbiased tips & advice on car buying and selling, see http://blog.iseecars.com.  To start your car search, visit http://www.iSeeCars.com , a leading search engine for finding over 2 million cars for sale from more than 11,000 websites with ONE SEARCH.

Sports cars will always have a place in the automotive mix, and even more so within the aficionado audience that lives and breathes everything sports car-related. But not everyone has the large chunk of change available, or is willing to pay $50,000 to $60,000 and upwards even if financed, for such a dream set of wheels. Still, there are good deals to be struck out there – if you look carefully and shop wisely.

It always helps to have the experts give us the benefit of research to maybe steer us in the right direction. In this case, we’re talking about the experts at Consumer Reports. In their Annual Auto Survey, responses from 1.4 million people garnered data on the reliability of new and used vehicles. Consumer Reports “Best of the Best” in terms of best used sports cars can serve as a starting point for your own research.

* Mazda MX-5 Miata Convertible (2007) – This sporty two-seater convertible in its 2007 model year configuration is also in the top spot of the magazine’s new car list. So, it’s got to have a lot going for it. Sure enough, the MX-5 Miata convertible, available in SV and Sport includes 5-speed manual transmission, rear-wheel drive (RWD), and 166-hp 2.0-liter 4-cylinder engine, includes anti-lock brakes (ABS) and side air bags standard. It’s also a lot of fun to drive. EPA fuel economy numbers are 22 mpg city/27 mpg highway. Using pricing calculators from two sites (Edmunds and CarMax), estimates of used car price for this model with low mileage range from $15,221 to around $17,000.

* BMW Z4 2.5i Roadster (2004) – The zippy RWD roadster boasts a 184-hp 2.50liter 6-cylinder engine and 6-speed manual transmission. Air bags and ABS are standard. EPA fuel economy is listed as 18 mpg city/27 mpg highway. Edmunds lists private party used car price at about $16,461, while dealer retail, according to Edmunds is $18,215. Kelley Blue Book (kbb.com) posts a used car price of $16,350 for a vehicle with 68,000 miles in excellent condition. New, the vehicle carried a manufacturer’s suggested retail price (MSRP) of $33,600.

* Nissan 350Z Track Coupe (2005) – For 2005, the 2-door hatchback 350Z coupe in RWD track model is powered by a 300-hp 3.5-liter V-6 engine and 6-speed manual transmission. Dual front airbags, four-wheel ABS and stability control are standard. EPA fuel economy numbers are 17 mpg city/24 mpg highway. New, the 350Z Track Coupe listed for $34,600. KBB says a used 2005 with 60,000 miles in excellent condition costs $19,066. Edmunds posts $17,350 for private party and $18,711 for dealer retail.

* Honda S2000 Convertible (2006) – When brand-new, this 2-seater cost $34,995 (MSRP). Today, according to used car pricing from KBB and Edmunds, you can find the S2000 for between $18,250 (KBB) and $19,423 and $20,704 (Edmunds, private party and dealer retail, respectively). What you get is a 237-hp 2.2-liter 4-cylinder engine, 6-speed manual transmission in RWD configuration, four-wheel ABS, dual front air bags and stability control standard. EPA numbers are 18 mpg city/24 mpg highway.

* Porsche Boxster Base Roadster (2008) – Our final top 5 best used sports cars is the RWD Porsche Boxster, with its 245-hp 2.7-liter B6 engine and 5-speed manual transmission, the roadster achieves EPA fuel economy of 20 mpg city/29 mpg highway. Standard equipment includes dual thorax/head air bags and safety rollover bar and ABS. Edmunds says the car has a private party used car price of $38,911 and dealer retail price of $42,115.

For more unbiased tips & advice on car buying and selling, see http://blog.iseecars.com.  To start your car search, visit http://www.iSeeCars.com , a leading search engine for finding over 2 million cars for sale from more than 11,000 websites with ONE SEARCH.

With gasoline prices having come down significantly from its peak of over $3 / gallon, it may be time to consider a SUV.  When it comes to versatility and spaciousness, you can’t beat a sport utility vehicles or SUV. Gone are the days of the purely utilitarian and box-like SUVs, replaced by increasingly sophisticated palaces on wheels with every conceivable amenity. Sure, all this comes with a penalty – often a steep price tag too much for your wallet. But you can find some great deals in used SUVs. What should you look for? Low mileage, plenty of safety and convenience features, of course, good styling and performance and finally, price. Here we list the top 5 best used SUVs according to one leading source, Consumer Reports. Note that these aren’t the be-all and end-all of the best used SUVs. Use this top 5 list of used SUVs as a starting point to drive home your best deal.

* Hyundai Santa Fe (2004) – The base SUV is the one you want for overall best value. Powered by a 138-hp 4-cylinder engine mated with automatic transmission, the 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe in front-wheel drive achieves 20 mpg city/27 mpg highway. According to Consumer Reports, this model with 66,000 miles can be purchased used for about $6,500 (versus $18,799 new).

* Toyota Sequoia Ltd (2005) – The magazine’s next used SUV best buy pick is the rear-wheel drive (RWD) Sequoia Ltd with 282-hp V-8 engine and automatic transmission. This model gets EPA fuel economy ratings of 15 mpg city/18 mpg highway. With some 51,000 miles on the odometer, this SUV, which sold new for $41,605, is available to buy used for about $17,000, according to Consumer Reports.

* Subaru B9 Tribeca (2006) – The base 5-passenger SUV model with 40,000 miles in all-wheel drive configuration, 250-hp 3.0-liter 6-cylinder engine and automatic transmission, carries a used car price of about $15,000, per the editors of Consumer Reports. Other sources cite the vehicle’s new car price range at between $10,800 and $19,000. For 2006, the B9 Tribeca base utility’s EPA numbers are 18 mpg city/23 mpg highway.

* Mitsubishi Outlander ES (2007) – Another RWD model on Consumer Reports list of best used SUVs is this 220-hp 6-cylinder Mitsubishi Outlander ES with automatic transmission. Look for around 33,000 miles. New, the model cost around $21,270, but you can find a great deal used for about $10,000. The ES in this configuration gets 20 mpg city/27 mpg highway.

* Honda Pilot VP (2008) – With 20,000 miles on the odometer, this 2008 Pilot VP is a 2-wheel drive 244-hp 6-cylinder 4-door model with automatic transmission. New, this model sold for nearly $28,000, but you can find it used for under $18,000, says Consumer Reports. The Honda Pilot VP in this configuration achieves 16 mpg city/22 mpg highway fuel economy.

If you’re hot for an SUV, there are great bargains out there, both on dealer lots (they’re eager to get them out of their inventory) and private sale. Read all the reviews you can on the particular models you’re interested in and go in to see and test-drive the SUV yourself. Be knowledgeable, be confident, and… be willing to walk away. There’s always another great used SUV that meets your needs and your wallet.

To start your car search, visit http://www.iSeeCars.com to find over 2 million used cars for sale from more than 11,000 websites.

By Suzanne Kane

Luxury cars and today’s economy – sounds like an oxymoron, doesn’t it? Not so if you’re looking to buy a used luxury vehicle – and you have either cash or a pre-approved personal loan for a used car you may have obtained through your local credit union. What to buy? What are some of the very best used luxury car buys out there? Consumer Reports recently released their top choices in used luxury cars in two categories: $24,000 to $30,000 and $30,000 and up. This article covers the top 5 best used luxury cars $30,000 and up, listed in alphabetical order by manufacturer, model and year. Note there are two entries for BMW and Infiniti, listed together, while Lexus and Porsche each have numerous recommended years and models.  We combine all the Consumer Reports top used luxury manufacturers’ makes into these the top 5 best used luxury cars:

* Acura MDX (2007) – A crossover SUV in the luxury category, the 2007 MDX – all new for this model year — is powered by a 3.7-liter 300-hp V-6 engine. Base, Sport and Technology packages all have the same powerplant.

* BMW 328i sedan (2007) and BMW M3 (2004) – The 328i sedan, in its 2007 version, is Euro-style luxury that’s finely tuned. Powered by a 3.0-liter 230-hp inline 6-cylinder engine, the 328i is mated to either a 6-speed manual or 6-speed automatic transmission. The 2004 BMW M3 is the high-performance version of the 3-Series coupe, also available in convertible, providing 333 horsepower. The M3 is often compared to the Porsche 911 for acceleration, braking and handling at higher speeds.

* Infiniti FX35 (2007) and Infiniti M (2006-2007) – A luxury crossover, the FX35 for 2007 is a two-wheel drive, 280-hp 3.5-liter V-6 mated with a 5-speed automatic transmission. There are two Infiniti M models on the top 5 best used luxury car list, the Infiniti M-35 with its 275-hp V-6 engine and Infiniti M-45 powered by the 325-hp V-8.

* Lexus (numerous years and models) – You can’t go wrong with Lexus, according to Consumer Reports’ list of top used luxury cars. Lexus also has the singular distinction of ranking number one in the J.D. Power and Associates Dependability Study for 12 consecutive years until having to share the top spot with Buick in 2007. Check out the 2006-2007 6-cylinder rear-wheel drive (RWD) GS, 2007 GS450h Hybrid, 2005-2007 GX, 2007 IS, 2004-2007 LS, 2003-2006 LX, and 2006-2007 RX.

* Porsche 911 (2001-2002, 2004, 2007) — An acclaimed supercar in all these years listed, the more recent 2007 has various models, sizes and engines recommended by Consumer Reports top used luxury car listing. Noteworthy are the Carrera (3.6-liter 325-hp flat-6 powerplant), Carrera S and S Cabriolet (3.8-liter 355-hp V-6 engine), 911 Turbo (twin turbo 480-hp 6-cylinder) and the GT3 Track (415-hp 6-cylinder).

What’s next? Do your research, narrow down your list, find the vehicles in dealer inventory or scan the classifieds, bring your cash (or pre-approved credit), negotiate your best deal, test-drive and take home your new best used luxury vehicle. It’s a wheel deal.

For more unbiased tips & advice on car buying and selling, see http://blog.iseecars.com.  To start your car search, visit http://www.iSeeCars.com , a leading search engine for finding over 2 million cars for sale across more than 11,000 websites.

By Suzanne Kane

Buying a new vehicle involves many considerations, some confusing terms and a lot of research. One of the terms that are not well known is “dealer holdback.” What is dealer holdback and why should it matter? Consider the following.

Definition of Dealer Holdback

In simple terms, dealer holdback is a percentage of either the Manufacturer’s Suggested Retail Price (MSRP) or a new vehicle’s invoice price, depending on the manufacturer, that the manufacturer repays to the dealer.

What it’s intended to do

Dealer holdback has the intent to add to the dealer’s cash flow and/or to reduce sales commissions by an artificial elevation of the dealer’s paper cost.

How holdbacks work

Dealers have to have inventory on their lots in order to have vehicles for customers to see, touch and test-drive prior to purchase. If this inventory comes from the manufacturer, the dealer has to first pay the manufacturer for it. The amount the dealer pays is the amount on the invoice from the manufacturer called the invoice price.

Holdbacks are calculated by the manufacturer (typically 2 to 3 percent of MSRP) and added to the invoice. After the dealer pays the manufacturer for the vehicle, the manufacturer repays the dealer for that holdback, sometimes on a quarterly basis. On a $30,000 MSRP vehicle at a holdback rate of 3 percent, that’s $900 – a pretty tidy sum that goes back to the dealer.

How holdbacks benefit the dealer

The dealer has the ability to borrow money to finance cars that is based on the invoice amount of the vehicles (and includes the holdback). Holdbacks lower gross profit and sales commissions (which are paid based on gross profit per sale), through inflating the dealer’s cost. Holdbacks give the dealer the opportunity to advertise it sells vehicles for $1 under/over invoice and still make several hundreds of dollars on the transaction (the amount of the holdback).

Holdbacks are something to keep mum about…

Dealers are sensitive to any discussion of holdbacks, considering them a “sacred cow.” Don’t get into a discussion about holdbacks with the dealer unless you feel that, after good faith negotiation, the dealer is taking you for a ride. If you mention you know they’re making money on the holdback right at the outset, you’ll pretty much kill any negotiating room you have.

A better strategy might be: Know how much the dealer invoice is and try to calculate the amount of the holdback. Then offer the dealer a couple of hundred over the invoice price. This may be attractive enough to the dealer (he’ll be selling the vehicle) that he’ll agree to your offer. It’s certainly worth keeping in mind as you look at that new vehicle you’re hot to buy. Just remember not to show that you’re too eager… You always have to be ready and willing to walk away. Sometimes that’s when the real deals start.

Extensive information about dealer holdbacks can be found by visiting Edmund’s website at http://www.edmunds.com/advice/incentives/holdback/index.html.

if you have a question you’d like our experts and community to answer, please ask your question at http://forum.iseecars.com.  To start your car search, visit http://www.iSeeCars.com to find over 2 million cars for sale across more than 11,000 websites.

By Suzanne Kane

What vehicle makes the most sense for you? What is the one vehicle that’s really just right, given your particular circumstances? Here’s how you can wade through the variety of choices out there.

1. Figure out what you need – If you already have a vehicle and are happy with it, maybe you want to replace it with one exactly like it – just newer. Your particular circumstance may influence the type of vehicle you’re now going for. This includes family size (and increase due to children, in-laws, etc., or decrease due to marriage, divorce, kids off at college, etc.), what you’ll use the vehicle for (hauling people and groceries, doubling as a work vehicle, hauling or towing boats, trailers, etc.), whether you need off-road capability, and other considerations.

2. Figure out what you want – Maybe you’re looking to move up to a luxury vehicle. Perhaps you need to economize with one that costs less to own and operate, or you just want to be more environmentally conscious. Whatever your motivation, pay close attention to what type of vehicle it is you really want. If you don’t wind up with a close approximation, you probably won’t be very happy with it – no matter what it costs.

3. Know your spending limit – Everyone has a budget, and a car payment is usually the second largest monthly hit behind a mortgage loan. Know exactly how much you have to spend in total on your new vehicle, and break it down into monthly payments that you can easily afford. This may dictate the type of vehicle that’s right for you – or you may have to make modifications based on the amount of the car.

4. Factor in the cost of insurance – In your calculations, make sure you factor in the cost to insure that new vehicle (or used, if that’s what you’re going for). Type of vehicle — car, truck, SUV; brand, fuel economy, vehicle size, engine size, luxury, economy, hybrid, alternate fuel, etc., are some of the considerations. New cars, luxury makes, cars loaded with high-priced options – all are more expensive to insure.  See the top 10 most and least expensive cars to insure.

5. Check your credit report – You can’t buy anything on credit without a good credit record. Know what your score is and clean up any negatives on your report before you begin shopping for your new vehicle. This step can really improve both the rate you’ll pay in interest as well as the willingness of a bank, credit union or finance company to take you on as a client.  See how you can get a free credit report courtesy of the U.S. government.

6. Check with your friends – Maybe you have your eye on the snappy coupe or all-purpose midsize SUV one of your friends owns. See how happy they are with their brand and make of vehicle. The recommendation (or lack of) that you get can go a long way in helping you determine if this is the right type of vehicle for you. If they love the brand, get great customer service, have no vehicle complaints, it’s even more ammunition for you to check out this brand among your other considerations.
7. Research – Cut photos of ads from magazines or write down brands and makes that really catch your eye from TV. This gives you a starting point, along with recommendations from friends, from which to perform your nest step: research. Go to independent websites like Edmunds (www.edmunds.com) and Kelley Blue Book (www.kbb.com) for independent reviews of every type of vehicle available. These sites also offer great tips on how to buy cars as well as other informative articles. Also check out the websites for the various manufacturers of the brands/makes you like.

8. Compare vehicle features – In this step, you’ll compare what each vehicle on your list has in terms of features. Things to consider are standard and optional equipment, safety equipment, technology, legroom, interior room, luggage capacity, towing capability, horsepower and torque, etc. Make a spreadsheet and check off items pertaining to each category. Make bold the ones that are critical to you. This may be high miles per gallon, low carbon footprint, low operating costs, included scheduled maintenance, etc.

9. Narrow down your list – At this stage, you should have one or two vehicles on your short list. Concentrate on them and really do your homework. Learn everything you can about the vehicles, checking their reliability, customer satisfaction (go to www.jdpa.com to check customer satisfaction with various brands and makes, along with reviews of vehicles). Have all this information in front of you so you’re well educated – before you go to a dealer.

10. Take a test drive – Whether you’ve finalized your list to one or two vehicles, it’s important to make sure you get a thorough walk-around and complete list of the vehicle’s selling points from the dealership salesperson. Most important, before you sign the dotted line is to insist on a test drive. This is especially important if you’ve never been in the vehicle before, but it’s equally important if it’s a newer model of one you’re already familiar with. The selling features of this new vehicle most likely mean there’s lots of new standard equipment, new gadgets that work differently, or new technology you need familiarization with.

f you have a question you’d like our experts and community to answer, please ask your question at http://forum.iseecars.com.  To start your car search, visit http://www.iSeeCars.com to find over 2 million cars for sale across more than 11,000 websites.

You wouldn’t buy a suit, dress or pair of shoes that didn’t fit right, would you? When it comes to buying insurance for your car, truck or SUV, it makes even more sense to get just the right fit. Here are 10 steps to help you choose your next auto insurance provider.

1. Know what you need – If you currently have an insured vehicle, and plan on replacing it with a like vehicle, you already have an idea of what you may need. Type of vehicle — car, truck, SUV; brand, fuel economy, vehicle size, engine size, luxury, economy, hybrid, alternate fuel, etc., are some of the considerations. Suppose you are moving up (or down) in various classifications. You may need to do some research on the additional types of coverage you may want or need. With an older car, you can probably eliminate comprehensive coverage and only carry liability (a minimum amount of liability insurance coverage is required in all states). For a luxury make, you’ll more likely want comprehensive or full coverage from a more upscale insurer.
2. Know what you can spend – Calculate your monthly budget to determine what you can spend on car insurance. This is especially important if you are buying up, a new vehicle that costs more to insure than your current one. It makes no sense to buy a sports car or luxury SUV if you can’t afford the monthly insurance premiums.
3. Decide on your deductible – You can get a premium price break if you opt for a higher deductible – the amount you pay out-of-pocket for covered losses before your insurance kicks in. There are deductibles in amounts ranging from $250 to $1,500. Remember, however, that you won’t be able to repair your vehicle if you don’t have the deductible readily available to you. That $1,500 deductible may sound really good, but if you don’t have it in the bank and you suddenly need it, maybe it isn’t such a wise idea after all.
4. Check your credit report – Insurers base premiums and coverage on many factors, including your credit worthiness. Know what your credit report contains and get a copy of your credit score. Good credit worthiness equals better rates – if other factors are also in alignment.
5. Maintain a good driving record – This goes without saying, but it does bear repeating. Accidents, tickets for speeding, DUI, etc., all take a toll on your insurance premium. And they stay on your record for three years. Some insurance carriers ask whether you’ve had any of these in the past five years. A good driving record also helps you qualify for discounts, which lower your monthly insurance premium.
6. Ask your friends – Find out which insurer your friends use and whether or not they’re happy with their overall service. This is a good place to start, especially if you’re not happy with your current auto insurance provider.
7. Research – This involves a bit of legwork on your part, but the results will be well worth it. Compare rates of numerous auto insurance providers through sites such as www.netquote.com/ and www.insweb.com/. Next, check consumer complaint ratings through your state’s department of insurance website (number of complaints per 1,000 claims). Also check the companies’ consumer satisfaction ratings. J.D. Power and Associates (www.jdpa.com) conducts an annual survey of the major auto insurance companies. For the past three years, Amica and Erie have scored at the top of the list in all categories. You’ll want to research the financial strength of the companies by checking their A.M. Best (www.ambest.com) and Standard and Poors’ (www.standardandpoors.com) ratings. A good site with lots of tips on buying car insurance is Edmunds (www.edmunds.com).
8. Compare services –Check each company you’re considering to see how they handle billing and payment, policy renewals, and claims process. Most have a toll-free number. Use it and ask lots of questions. The way you’re treated and how they answer your questions will be a good barometer of the company’s overall customer service.
9. Decide how you’ll interact – Do you prefer to work with a local agent, an independent agent representing several companies, or directly with the auto insurance provider? You can buy online, over the phone, or in person through an agent.
10. Get all your available discounts – While you’re interacting with your short list of insurance providers, make sure to inquire about all available discounts – non-smoker, anti-theft devices, good driver discount, senior discount, special membership discount, etc. If you do stay with your current insurer, make sure you get persistent customer discount as well.

By Suzanne Kane

If you have a question you’d like our experts and community to answer, please ask your question at http://forum.iseecars.com.  To start your car search, visit http://www.iSeeCars.com to find over 2 million cars for sale across more than 11,000 websites.

There are lots of great vehicles available today – if you’ve got the money. Even though the deals are very attractive as dealers scramble for customers, the painful truth is that money is hard to come by. You’ll need funds for your down payment and enough income to make the monthly payments, whether you purchase or lease.

How can you obtain financing in today’s tough credit market? Here are some steps.

1. Check your credit rating – The amount of credit, or the likelihood that you can get credit, depends in large part on your credit rating – and your credit score. Consumers with top tier rating of 720+ are the best credit risks, and it goes in descending order from there. Your first step is to check your credit rating through the three nationwide credit reporting agencies: Experian, TransUnion and Equifax. You can obtain a free annual report through www.AnnualCreditReport.com/. If you have any negatives on the report, correct them before you shop for credit.
2. Know how much you can spend – It doesn’t pay to look at that loaded luxury car if all you can really afford is a good midsize sedan. Lay out all your monthly cash expenditures for mortgage or rent, utilities, insurance, medical, food, dining and miscellaneous expense. Are there any areas you can economize, cut down or eliminate? This may give you an extra hundred or so dollars each month that can go toward your new vehicle. Don’t forget you’ll need to factor in car insurance as well.
3. Determine your purchase strategy – Know whether you plan to lease or buy your vehicle. There are pros and cons to each decision. With a purchase, you own the vehicle, but you may not be able to afford the vehicle you really want. When you lease a vehicle, you can probably get the next-highest model, but you’re only, in essence, renting the vehicle. Once the lease is up, the vehicle goes back. And there are other restrictions as well, including mileage caps and penalties for excessive mileage, wear, etc.
4. Research incentives and rebates – How much you can afford also depends on what attractive incentives and rebates dealers and automakers are currently offering. Research all the automakers to see who has the best deals. This will help lower the amount of your down payment. It also reduces the loan-to-value ratio and makes your loan more attractive to a potential lender.
5. Go for the loan – Check out the automakers’ in-house financing divisions as a first step. You can do this yourself or work through the dealer. Almost every automaker has a captive financing arm — even General Motors Acceptance Center (GMAC) is still financing GM vehicles. Don’t forget that the dealer has many more options for auto loans that they can turn to. There’s also your own bank or competitive banks, consumer finance companies and credit unions. The best bet is to get pre-approved for your financing – before you go to the dealer. Having that pre-approval in hand will also strengthen your buying position with the dealer. Remember, they want your business.

By Suzanne Kane

If you have a question you’d like our experts and community to answer, please ask your question at http://forum.iseecars.com.  To start your car search, visit http://www.iSeeCars.com to find over 2 million cars for sale across more than 11,000 websites.

Buying a new car is an exciting prospect, but we all know it can also be frustrating and troublesome. The last thing you want is to buy the car and then have that awful feeling that maybe you could have done better in terms of the deal. How do you know you’re getting the best deal? Here are 10 steps to help you get the best deal possible.

1. Do your research – Before you go to the dealership, gather all the research you can on the vehicle or vehicles you’re interested in. Be sure to include horsepower and fuel economy, greenhouse gas emissions and air pollution scores, quality, safety and technology, cost to insure, and any other pertinent data. Weigh and balance what you want in a vehicle – luxury, towing capacity, best fuel economy, hybrid or alternative vehicle, etc. – and narrow your list down to one or two vehicles.
2. Know your credit report – Be proactive and learn what’s on your credit report. You can obtain a free credit report every 12 months from Annual Credit Report (www.annualcreditreport.com). Free reports are available for the three consumer reporting agencies: Experian, TransUnion and Equifax. If you have any negative items, clear them up – before you try to buy a car.
3. Shop rates – If you’ll be financing or leasing your vehicle, it pays to comparison shop rates. Consider various sources: banks, credit unions, online lenders, automakers, and dealers – even the AAA. Check rates through sites such as BankRate.com, eloan.com and lendingtree.com.
4. Educate yourself – You may be able to lease a more expensive or higher-contented vehicle than you could if you purchase it outright. Leasing may offer tax write-off benefits as well. Take the time to educate yourself on the difference between financing and leasing, especially the terms and conditions. Decide which is better for your particular circumstance. Automakers may offer special financing rates for certain vehicles.
5. Stay in your budget – Don’t be tempted to go overboard and blow your budget. After you’ve done your research, obtained your credit report, shopped rates and decided on purchase or lease, know what you can afford to spend. Take into consideration the monthly payment as well as the length of the contract.
6. Insist on a test drive – You wouldn’t buy a home without a thorough walk-through, would you? A car is one of your highest-ticket items after a home, so it only makes sense that you’re satisfied with how it performs on the road. If you’re considering a couple of makes, be sure to test-drive both. Also, have the salesman do a walk-around and explain all the vehicle’s features and highlights. Ask lots of questions. If the salesperson doesn’t know the answer, ask to speak with someone at the dealership that does.
7. Check out any optional additions – Be sure you understand any additions or options in your contract – before you agree to them. These include extended service contracts, guaranteed auto protection, credit insurance, and things like undercoating. Know what the item includes, the value of the item, and the price.
8. Negotiate the deal – Don’t be afraid of this step. Negotiation is a key part of getting the best deal on your new car. Negotiating points include purchase price and financing, throwing in items for free, beating a competitor’s price or deal. Be sure you discuss any available incentives and rebates for the vehicle you’re interested in. These include cash-back and/or discounted financing rates. Customers are in the driver’s seat in today’s car market. Be confident, polite, but firm. Just don’t be unreasonable.
9. Be prepared to walk – If, at any time during the negotiation process, you feel uncomfortable or at an impasse, be prepared to walk. This is especially true if you already have a deal offer from a competitive dealership. Chances are, when you’re about to leave, the negotiations will reach a new level. The salesperson doesn’t want to lose a potential customer and may be able to match or beat your other offer. They may have to go to a manager to get approval, but this is worth it to you. If not, go elsewhere.
10. Read the contract completely – The last step, and one that many consumers fail to pay attention to, is to thoroughly read through the contract. There may be an error in your down payment, length of contract, interest rate, sales tax calculation or other items. If you buy the car in a county different than where you live, be sure your sales tax is calculated according to your residence. This will save you money if your resident-county tax rate is lower.

By Suzanne Kane

If you have a question you’d like our experts and community to answer, please ask your question at http://forum.iseecars.com.  To start your car search, visit http://www.iSeeCars.com to find over 2 million cars for sale across more than 11,000 websites.

In previous articles, we explained using Kelley Blue Book, Edmunds and NADA to estimate the value or pricing of the car you’re selling or purchasing.  In this post, we thought it would be helpful to briefly revisit each valuation site and provide a comparison of the three sites to give you an idea of the differences.

Estimating used car values is sometimes confusing to consumers. But help is just a click away with three major sites for used car valuation: Kelley Blue Book (KBB), Edmunds, and NADA Guides. If you’re contemplating buying or selling a used vehicle, it’s best to visit all three sites, print out your details, and go from there. But how does each work to provide estimates of the value of vehicles? Here’s a comparison.

Kelley Blue Book (KBB), with 100 years in the vehicle appraisal business, generally provides the highest, best-case scenario. In other words, their used car trade-in values are usually the highest. Their used vehicle valuation utilizes actual auction values or a combination of auction values and formulas. KBB bases its retail value on new car prices and takes market, depreciation, and cost to repair and dealer overhead into consideration. For private party sales, the method is the same as for retail but minus overhead, repairs and profit margin. Used car estimates are reported as trade-in, private party and suggested retail.

Edmunds uses what it calls the True Market Value or TMV, which is a combination of auction data and retail sales. Edmunds’ TMV uses formulas and calculates vehicle depreciation. According to Edmunds, it factors in current vehicle inventory levels, market sales conditions by locale, economic trends (such as rising or falling gas prices) and unpublished incentives. Values are reported as trade-in, private party and dealer retail. Edmunds’ TMV is often lower than the other two major sites.

NADA Guides utilizes a method similar to that of KBB, with results reported as rough trade-in, average trade-in, clean trade-in and clean retail. Clean retail price is based on a clean vehicle history report. NADA Guides’ used car valuation is generally in the middle of the three sites.

How it works

Let’s take a 2008 Cadillac CTS V-6 4-door sedan with direct injection and all-wheel drive (AWD) and use each of the three sites. On KBB, select Used Car Prices. Enter your zip code, and select year, make and model. You will then select trade-in value, private party or suggested retail. Select equipment (engine, drivetrain, transmission), enter mileage, and check optional equipment on the vehicle (standard equipment is already pre-selected). In this instance, premium 19” wheels, sunroof, Bose premium sound, navigation system, luxury package and rear sensors are added. Next, select vehicle condition (excellent, good, fair or poor), and click configure. Here are the results for KBB: Trade-in value: Excellent = $35,125, Good = $33,725, Fair = $31,125. Private party: Excellent = $39,940, Good = $35,340, Fair = $36,140. Suggested Retail: $43,240.

On Edmunds, go to used car prices, TMV pricing or appraise your car. You’ll need to enter make, year, model and style. For TMV pricing, select buy or sell vehicle, color and enter mileage in Step one. Add optional equipment in Step two. In Step three, list the vehicle’s condition (outstanding, clean, average, rough or damaged), and in Step four you get the vehicle’s pricing report. In this instance, Edmunds’ TMV for trade-in is $29,235, while private party pricing is $32,041 and dealer retail is $34,745.

For NADA Guides, go to used cars and then used car prices. Select body style, vehicle make, year, model and trim. Then enter mileage and options (noting that standard equipment is already selected for your). There are fewer options and equipment items listed here than KBB. Results for the 2009 Cadillac CTS as configured: Rough Trade-in = $29,125, Average Trade-in = $31,400, Clean Trade-in = $33,300 and Clean Retail = $37,725.

What to do with the information

Print out your used car estimates from the three sites, and use them as a starting point in a vehicle trade-in at the dealership or private party sale. Remember, geographic location, market conditions, the economy and other factors play a big part in the actual value of your used vehicle. Be in a position of strength with your gathered information, and go from there.

By Suzanne Kane

If you have a question you’d like our experts and community to answer, please ask your question at http://forum.iseecars.com.  To start your car search, visit http://www.iSeeCars.com to find over 2 million cars for sale across more than 11,000 websites.

Here are the top vehicle searches by iSeeCars.com users for the first quarter (January to March) of 2009. iSeeCars.com currently enables users to search over 2.5 million cars for sale across more than 10,000 different car classifieds websites.

The top 10 most searched used cars by make on iSeeCars.com were:

1. Honda
2. Toyota
3. BMW
4. Nissan
5. Chevrolet
6. Lexus
7. Acura
8. Mercedes
9. Ford
10. Volkswagen

The most searched for used car by manufacturer was Honda. Toyota and Honda kept the same top 2 spots as 2008. Chevrolet was the most searched for American car manufacturer. In 2008, Ford took the top American spot but came in 9th most searched vehicle in the first quarter of 2009, dropping a whopping 6 places. In the luxury car segment, BMW had the most searches. BMW searches increased 3 spots from 6th last year.

The top 10 most searched for used cars for sale by make and model were:

1. Honda Civic
2. Honda Accord
3. Toyota Camry
4. Toyota Corolla
5. Ford Mustang
6. Honda Civic CRX
7. Ford F-150
8. Jeep Wrangler
9. Chevrolet Impala
10. Chevrolet Tahoe

The most searched for used car was Honda Civic. Honda and Toyota cars retained the top 3 spots from last year. Appearing in the top 10 this year but not last year were 2 fuel-efficient vehicles, mainly Honda Civic CRX and Chevrolet Impala. The truck with the most user searches was Ford F-150 compared to Toyota Tacoma last year.

The top 5 most searched cities for cars for sale were:

1. Houston, TX
2. Atlanta, GA
3. Dallas, TX
4. Chicago, IL
5. Boston, MA

The most frequently search filter used was “moving sale” where users were looking for good deals on used cars for sale by owners who are moving and need to sell their cars.

The user searches and activities on iSeeCars.com continue to grow significantly on a daily basis. The amount of time a user spends per visit increased to almost 10 minutes. We look forward to growing the engagement level by introducing new features to make the site even more helpful to our users in searching for a car and finding a great deal.

Is it better to trade in your old car or sell it outright? In many cases, you’ll come out ahead if you opt to sell your car on your own. However, it is not an easy thing to do, which is why so many people decide to let the dealer take care of their old car.

When a vehicle is traded in, the valuation will be based upon the wholesale value of the unit. When an individual is selling or buying a car from another individual, the price is based on the private party value. If sold by a dealer, the price of the car would be the retail value. Depending on the vehicle, these three valuations can vary by several thousand dollars. Research your car’s value on websites such as www.kbb.com, www.nada.com or www.edmunds.com .

If undecided whether to trade or sell, the first thing a person should do is contact their lender and get the buy-out value for the current loan. If you owe $6,000 on your trade, the dealership is offering $6,200 and the private party value on the car is only $6500, it would be better to simply trade the car in. However, if the private party value was $7,000, it would behoove you to try and sell it individually, as there is potential profit of several hundred dollars.

Keep in mind the other points that will need to be calculated when making the decision to sell or trade:

Cleaning the vehicle: If trading in, just remove personal items. The dealership takes care of the rest. If selling, you will need to thoroughly clean the unit and get it detailed for sale. These costs will come out of your profit, so keep this in mind.

Repairing minor problems: If the vehicle has bad tires, a cracked or chipped windshield, missing knobs or other small things, or if it has scratches and/or small dents, you can leave as-is and the dealer will accept it. You might not get as much for the trade as if everything was repaired, but comparing replacement value vs. the wholesale dollars you recoup, it’s not worth it to go all-out in fixing “blemishes”. If selling the vehicle, however, you should easily recoup money spent in making these repairs. Do keep in mind that if the vehicle has several minor things wrong with it, repairing everything could severely cut into your net profits.

Legalities: When trading a vehicle, simply sign a few papers in the F&I office and the dealership will take care of everything. If selling a car, it is your responsibility to arrange the payoff on the lien. There will also be fees for notarization, title transfer, licensing and more. Since the laws vary from state to state, contact your local Department of Motor Vehicles to get info on everything that must be done to make it a legal sale.

And. . . You’ll have to pay for advertising, which can range from $25 or so in a small local paper to several hundred dollars if you go with a large used car website. Most importantly, don’t forget the time involved in cleaning, fixing, writing the ad, fielding the telephone inquiries and showing the car.

If you add it all up, there can be considerable profit in selling a car, rather than letting the dealer give merely wholesale on it. However, if the profit margin is slim, it could be better simply to turn it over to the dealership and let them worry about it!

You may have heard about getting great deals by buying cars from the government but may not know where to find those government owned or seized vehicles for sale.  Here is a summary list of approved government websites to find those vehicles.  There are a number of ways for the public to buy government vehicles online or offline.  Be wary of sites out there that want to charge you for this kind of information.

Buy Online: Cars and Vehicles

Buy Offline: Cars and Vehicles

As mentioned in the last post on Buying Government Vehcles Explained: Part 1, there are 2 types of government vehicles that the public can buy:

1. One type is the fleet of vehicles that are used by government employees.
2. The other type are the vehicles that are seized by the government -  depending on the branch of the government that seized the motor vehicle, the motor vehicle is either sold by the U.S. Marshals Service or the Department of the Treasury.

In the first part of the article, we covered the first type.  In this post, we will cover the second type which consists of the government seized vehicles sold by the U.S. Marshals Service.  In the next post, we will provide information on government seized vehicles sold by the Department of the Treasury.

Government Seized Vehicles Sold by the U.S. Marshals Service

Government seized vehicles include the cars, trucks, motorcycles, SUV’s, etc that are seized by federal law enforcement agencies and U.S. attorneys nationwide including The Marshals Service; U.S. Attorney’s Offices; Federal Bureau of Investigation; Drug Enforcement Administration; Department of Homeland Security, and the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco, Firearms and Explosives.

The U.S. Marshals Service administers the Department of Justice’s Asset Forfeiture Program by managing and disposing of the vehicles as well as other properties seized such as  residential, commercial real estate, Land, business establishments, Financial Instruments and a wide range of personal property such as boats, aircraft, jewelry, art, antiques, and collectibles.

The Marshals Service manages and disposes of all assets seized for forfeiture by utilizing successful procedures employed by the private sector. The Marshals Service contracts with a number of qualified vendors to dispose of and sell the motor vehicles and other properties with the objective of minimizing the amount of time an asset remains in inventory and maximizing the net return to the government.

The U.S. Marshals Service offers property for sale to the public which has been forfeited under laws enforced or administered by the United States Department of Justice, its investigative agencies (Drug Enforcement Administration, Federal Bureau of Investigation, and Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms), and certain other federal law enforcement agencies.  More than 8,400 items of forfeited property are sold annually with gross sales of $97 million.

Typically, motor vehicles are sold through auctions across states throughout the U.S.  Below is a list of contract service providers and federal agencies who have been authorized to sell forfeited vehicles and other properties. To get a list of the motor vehicles being auctioned off, you’ll have to locate the service provider below for your state and contact them.  Unfortunately, the U.S. Marshals Service does not maintain a central or single list of the vehicles.  The link to the list on the U.S. Marshals Service website is http://www.usmarshals.gov/assets/nsl.htm

There are 2 types of government vehicles that the public can buy:

1. One type is the fleet of vehicles that are used by government employees.
2. The other type are the vehicles that are seized by the government specifically law enforcement agencies such as The Marshals Service; U.S. Attorney’s Offices; Federal Bureau of Investigation; Drug Enforcement Administration; Department of Homeland Security, and the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco, Firearms and Explosives.

In this first part of the article, we will cover the first type:

Government Fleet Vehicles

These are cars that are leased by the government on a 3-5 year term for use by government employees on the job.  At the end of the lease term, the government sells the vehicles at steep discounts to the public through the Internet and auctions.  The U.S. General Services Administration (GSA), a division of the federal government, is in charge of buying / leasing the cars, managing the fleet (doing the necessary maintenance and repair), and selling the cars.  Cars for sale are listed on the GSA website at http://www.autoauctions.gsa.gov.  GSA sells about 35,000 vehicles a year ranging from cars, trucks, SUVs and vans.   The vehicles are generally of good quality and have been well maintained by the government.  The savings could be substantial since after all the government does use our hard-earned tax dollars to acquire the vehicles and  is not in the business of making a if any profit from the sales of the vehicles to the public (the tax payers).

To learn more about buying these government-owned fleet vehicles, here are some frequently asked questions from their site:

What are my advantages in buying a pre-owned GSA Fleet vehicle?
GSA Fleet offers you cars, trucks and other vehicles with low mileage and only one previous owner. These vehicles have been well maintained. Our vehicles are carefully detailed before sale and come loaded with most options consumers typically prefer. Additionally, with no buyer’s fees, pre-owned vehicles from GSA usually sell for substantially less than from other sources.

How do I register for an auction?
You must register at the sponsoring auction facility on the day of inspection or auction to obtain a bidder’s number.

Who is eligible to purchase a GSA Fleet vehicle?
Any member of the public who is a licensed driver and at least 18 years of age is eligible to bid at our auctions. GSA employees and members of their immediate households, and auction contractors, subcontractors, and members of their immediate households are prohibited from buying, directly or indirectly, at a GSA Fleet sale. Employees of other government agencies may purchase government property, unless prohibited by their agency regulations.

How much does a GSA Fleet Vehicle Auction cost to attend?
Nothing. Registration to participate in any of our Vehicle Auctions is free.

Am I able to purchase a vehicle for someone else?
Yes. To purchase a vehicle on behalf of other parties, you must furnish their Social Security Number or Tax Identification Number. The attending bidder must furnish a letter granting power of attorney to purchase Federal Surplus Property on behalf of the individual or company you are representing.

Can I test drive a vehicle before bidding?
During inspection you can start a vehicle to check the performance of its engine, air conditioning, heater, and other accessories. However, the vehicle must stay parked and cannot be driven.

Does the Government warranty its vehicles?
GSA Fleet offers to the original purchaser that the property listed in the invitation will conform to its description. However, where applicable, manufacturer’s warranties are transferable. Purchasers should contact their vehicle’s manufacturer to determine whether its warranty remains in force. We cannot attest to the condition of vehicles we sell for other Federal agencies, however known deficiencies will be listed.

How does GSA Fleet determine who is awarded the vehicle?
Each vehicle will be sold to the highest responsive bidder. GSA Fleet reserves the right to reject any or all bids including bids under which a bidder would take unfair advantage of the Government or other bidders.

How many vehicles does GSA Fleet sell, and when?
GSA Fleet will sell approximately 35,000 vehicles this coming year. Most vehicles will be available between April–September, when a majority of our leases expire, but we conduct sales throughout the entire year.

Can I refuse a vehicle after my bid was accepted?
No, Successful bidders are contractually bound to pay for and remove their vehicles from the auction facility within the time period specified. Failure to pay for, or take possession of the vehicle within these time frames may subject the buyer to additional fees/penalties as identified in the SF 114C, or any other special terms and conditions of sale.

Are there any hidden charges?
Your accepted bid price represents your total payment, except in those states that require applicable taxes to be paid at the time of sale. There are no added buyer’s fees.

How can I pay for my vehicle?
Accepted forms of payment may include cash, credit card, cashier’s check, credit union cashier’s check, traveler’s check, postal or commercial money order, and properly endorsed Federal, State, or local government checks. Personal or company checks may be accepted if accompanied by a bank guarantee; however, check with the auction before the sale to make sure they will accept it. Checks must be made payable to the auction facility. MasterCard, VISA, American Express, and Discover credit cards will be accepted, subject to verification and approval by the issuing bank. It is recommended that you contact your credit card provider in advance of the sale to pre-authorize what might otherwise be an abnormally large purchase. As a security feature of many credit cards unusually large purchases, while legitimate and within available credit, may be declined to prevent fraud. A pre-authorizing phone call to your credit card provider may prevent any delays in the processing of your payment.

How do I register my vehicle?
A Government Certificate to Obtain Title (Standard Form 97) and a Purchaser’s Receipt will be issued for each motor vehicle sold. SF-97 is evidence of titleability only and should be used by the purchaser to obtain a proper motor vehicle registration for his or her state.

Why does GSA Fleet sell its vehicles?
GSA Fleet maintains most of its vehicles through leasing arrangements. At the conclusion of its lease (typically 3–5 years), GSA Fleet will sell a vehicle in order to finance its automotive fleet purchases.

Does GSA Fleet sell seized vehicles?
No. Seized vehicles are sold by the U.S. Marshals Service and the Department of the Treasury.

Did you know that the US government (well using our tax money) requires nationwide consumer reporting agencies like Experian, TransUnion and Equifax to provide every consumer with a free credit report every year?  Well that’s true.

So what’s the big deal about credit reports?  As you may already know, your credit history determines whether or not you get a loan for your car and at what terms including interest rate. So it may behoove you to review your credit report on a periodic basis and see if there are mistakes. If there are, it would be beneficial for you to fix them as soon as possible.

Below is a document posted by the US government’s Federal Trade Comission regarding your entitlement and right to a free credit report from the consumer reporting agencies Experian, Equifax, and TransUnion.

Your Access to Free Credit Reports
The Fair Credit Reporting Act (FCRA) requires each of the nationwide consumer reporting companies — Equifax, Experian, and TransUnion — to provide you with a free copy of your credit report, at your request, once every 12 months. The FCRA promotes the accuracy and privacy of information in the files of the nation’s consumer reporting companies. The Federal Trade Commission (FTC), the nation’s consumer protection agency, enforces the FCRA with respect to consumer reporting companies.

A credit report includes information on where you live, how you pay your bills, and whether you’ve been sued or arrested, or have filed for bankruptcy. Nationwide consumer reporting companies sell the information in your report to creditors, insurers, employers, and other businesses that use it to evaluate your applications for credit, insurance, employment, or renting a home.

Here are the details about your rights under the FCRA and the Fair and Accurate Credit Transactions (FACT) Act, which established the free annual credit report program.

Q: How do I order my free report?
A: The three nationwide consumer reporting companies have set up a central website, a toll-free telephone number, and a mailing address through which you can order your free annual report.

To order, visit http://www.annualcreditreport.com, call 1-877-322-8228, or complete the Annual Credit Report Request Form and mail it to: Annual Credit Report Request Service, P.O. Box 105281, Atlanta, GA 30348-5281. The form is on the back of this brochure; or you can print it from ftc.gov/credit. Do not contact the three nationwide consumer reporting companies individually. They are providing free annual credit reports only through annualcreditreport.com, 1-877-322-8228, and Annual Credit Report Request Service, P.O. Box 105281, Atlanta, GA 30348-5281.

You may order your reports from each of the three nationwide consumer reporting companies at the same time, or you can order your report from each of the companies one at a time. The law allows you to order one free copy of your report from each of the nationwide consumer reporting companies every 12 months.

A Warning About “Imposter” Websites

Only one website is authorized to fill orders for the free annual credit report you are entitled to under law — annualcreditreport.com. Other websites that claim to offer “free credit reports,” “free credit scores,” or “free credit monitoring” are not part of the legally mandated free annual credit report program. In some cases, the “free” product comes with strings attached. For example, some sites sign you up for a supposedly “free” service that converts to one you have to pay for after a trial period. If you don’t cancel during the trial period, you may be unwittingly agreeing to let the company start charging fees to your credit card.

Some “imposter” sites use terms like “free report” in their names; others have URLs that purposely misspell annualcreditreport.com in the hope that you will mistype the name of the official site. Some of these “imposter” sites direct you to other sites that try to sell you something or collect your personal information.

Annualcreditreport.com and the nationwide consumer reporting companies will not send you an email asking for your personal information. If you get an email, see a pop-up ad, or get a phone call from someone claiming to be from annualcreditreport.com or any of the three nationwide consumer reporting companies, do not reply or click on any link in the message. It’s probably a scam. Forward any such email to the FTC at spam@uce.gov.

Q: What information do I need to provide to get my free report?
A: You need to provide your name, address, Social Security number, and date of birth. If you have moved in the last two years, you may have to provide your previous address. To maintain the security of your file, each nationwide consumer reporting company may ask you for some information that only you would know, like the amount of your monthly mortgage payment. Each company may ask you for different information because the information each has in your file may come from different sources.

Q: Why do I want a copy of my credit report?
A: Your credit report has information that affects whether you can get a loan — and how much you will have to pay to borrow money. You want a copy of your credit report to:

make sure the information is accurate, complete, and up-to-date before you apply for a loan for a major purchase like a house or car, buy insurance, or apply for a job.
help guard against identity theft. That’s when someone uses your personal information — like your name, your Social Security number, or your credit card number — to commit fraud. Identity thieves may use your information to open a new credit card account in your name. Then, when they don’t pay the bills, the delinquent account is reported on your credit report. Inaccurate information like that could affect your ability to get credit, insurance, or even a job.

Q: How long does it take to get my report after I order it?
A: If you request your report online at annualcreditreport.com, you should be able to access it immediately. If you order your report by calling toll-free 1-877-322-8228, your report will be processed and mailed to you within 15 days. If you order your report by mail using the Annual Credit Report Request Form, your request will be processed and mailed to you within 15 days of receipt.

Whether you order your report online, by phone, or by mail, it may take longer to receive your report if the nationwide consumer reporting company needs more information to verify your identity.

There also may be times when the nationwide consumer reporting companies receive a high volume of requests for credit reports. If that happens, you may be asked to re-submit your request. Or, you may be told that your report will be mailed to you sometime after 15 days from your request. If either of these events occurs, the nationwide consumer reporting companies will let you know.

Q: Are there any other situations where I might be eligible for a free report?
A: Under federal law, you’re entitled to a free report if a company takes adverse action against you, such as denying your application for credit, insurance, or employment, and you ask for your report within 60 days of receiving notice of the action. The notice will give you the name, address, and phone number of the consumer reporting company. You’re also entitled to one free report a year if you’re unemployed and plan to look for a job within 60 days; if you’re on welfare; or if your report is inaccurate because of fraud, including identity theft. Otherwise, a consumer reporting company may charge you up to $10.50 for another copy of your report within a
12-month period.

To buy a copy of your report, contact:

Equifax:1-800-685-1111; equifax.com
Experian: 1-888-397-3742; experian.com
TransUnion: 1-800-916-8800; transunion.com
Under state law, consumers in Colorado, Georgia, Maine, Maryland, Massachusetts, New Jersey, and Vermont already have free access to their credit reports.

Q: Should I order a report from each of the three nationwide consumer reporting companies?
A: It’s up to you. Because nationwide consumer reporting companies get their information from different sources, the information in your report from one company may not reflect all, or the same, information in your reports from the other two companies. That’s not to say that the information in any of your reports is necessarily inaccurate; it just may be different.

Q: Should I order my reports from all three of the nationwide consumer reporting companies at the same time?
A: You may order one, two, or all three reports at the same time, or you may stagger your requests. It’s your choice. Some financial advisors say staggering your requests during a 12-month period may be a good way to keep an eye on the accuracy and completeness of the information in your reports.

Q: What if I find errors — either inaccuracies or incomplete information — in my credit report?
A: Under the FCRA, both the consumer report ing company and the information provider (that is, the person, company, or organization that provides information about you to a consumer reporting company) are responsible for correcting inaccurate or incomplete information in your report. To take full advantage of your rights under this law, contact the consumer reporting company and the information provider.

Tell the consumer reporting company, in writing, what information you think is inaccurate.
Consumer reporting companies must investigate the items in question — usually within 30 days — unless they consider your dispute frivolous. They also must forward all the relevant data you provide about the inaccuracy to the organization that provided the information. After the information provider receives notice of a dispute from the consumer reporting company, it must investigate, review the relevant information, and report the results back to the consumer reporting company. If the information provider finds the disputed information is inaccurate, it must notify all three nationwide consumer reporting companies so they can correct the information in your file.

When the investigation is complete, the consumer reporting company must give you the written results and a free copy of your report if the dispute results in a change. (This free report does not count as your annual free report under the FACT Act.) If an item is changed or deleted, the consumer reporting company cannot put the disputed information back in your file unless the information provider verifies that it is accurate and complete. The consumer reporting company also must send you written notice that includes the name, address, and phone number of the information provider.

Tell the creditor or other information provider in writing that you dispute an item. Many providers specify an address for disputes. If the provider reports the item to a consumer reporting company, it must include a notice of your dispute. And if you are correct — that is, if the information is found to be inaccurate — the information provider may not report it again.

Q: What can I do if the consumer reporting company or information provider won’t correct the information I dispute?
A: If an investigation doesn’t resolve your dispute with the consumer reporting company, you can ask that a statement of the dispute be included in your file and in future reports. You also can ask the consumer reporting company to provide your state ment to anyone who received a copy of your report in the recent past. You can expect to pay a fee for this service.

If you tell the information provider that you dispute an item, a notice of your dispute must be included any time the information provider reports the item to a consumer reporting company.

Q: How long can a consumer reporting company report negative information?
A: A consumer reporting company can report most accurate negative information for seven years and bankruptcy information for 10 years. There is no time limit on reporting information about crimi nal convictions; information reported in response to your application for a job that pays more than $75,000 a year; and information reported because you’ve applied for more than $150,000 worth of credit or life insurance. Information about a lawsuit or an unpaid judgment against you can be reported for seven years or until the statute of limitations runs out, which ever is longer.

Q: Can anyone else can get a copy of my credit report?
A: The FCRA specifies who can access your credit report. Creditors, insurers, employers, and other businesses that use the information in your report to evaluate your applications for credit, insurance, em ployment, or renting a home are among those that have a legal right to access your report.

Q: Can my employer get my credit report?
A: Your employer can get a copy of your credit report only if you agree. A consumer reporting company may not provide information about you to your employer, or to a prospective employer, without your written consent.

For More Information

The FTC works for the consumer to prevent fraudulent, deceptive, and unfair business practices in the marketplace and to provide information to help consumers spot, stop, and avoid them. To learn more about credit issues and protecting your personal information, visit ftc.gov/credit.

To file a complaint or to get free information on other consumer issues, visit ftc.gov or call toll-free, 1-877-FTC-HELP (1-877-382-4357); TTY: 1-866-653-4261. The FTC enters Internet, telemarketing, identity theft, and other fraud-related complaints into Consumer Sentinel, a secure online database available to hundreds of civil and criminal law enforcement agencies in the U.S. and abroad.

The FTC works for the consumer to prevent fraudulent, deceptive, and unfair business practices in the marketplace and to provide information to help consumers spot, stop, and avoid them. To file a complaint or to get free information on consumer issues, visit ftc.gov or call toll-free, 1-877-FTC-HELP (1-877-382-4357); TTY: 1-866-653-4261. The FTC enters consumer complaints into the Consumer Sentinel Network, a secure online database and investigative tool used by hundreds of civil and criminal law enforcement agencies in the U.S. and abroad.

NADA (National Automobile Dealer’s Association) is obviously an association for those in the automotive retail business, the website (www.nada.com) also has a consumer division, to assist those buying a new or used vehicle.

Every month, NADA processes over half a million pieces of data to insure that the prices it publishes are the most accurate. NADA compiles and then averages out the information it receives from dealers, lending institutions, insurance companies, auction houses and more in order to come up with a fair evaluation price on any used vehicle dating back to 1990.

Some detractors to the website claim that the prices are slanted toward the dealer, not the consumer. After all, it’s an association for dealers, right? However, when I tested the pricing on a 2005 Chevy Malibu, I found that NADA’s suggested trade values were higher by about $150, which is in the consumer’s favor. There was also a slight difference on the suggested retail value. Kelly Blue Book values the car at $10,765 and NADA says it is worth $10,175. While this same level of pricing may not be the same for all makes and models, NADA’s website seems to be fair in its valuation of used vehicles.

Of course, as with any of the other vehicle evaluation websites, the prices given by NADA are subjective, and can vary greatly due to supply and demand. If there is a glut of a particular vehicle, the car will probably be worth less than the NADA evaluation. Conversely, if the vehicle is a very desirable make or color, it could very well be worth more than NADA predicted.

Whether trading in a vehicle, looking to sell a vehicle or even buying a used vehicle, make sure to check not just NADA for pricing but also other pricing sites like KBB and Edmunds.  From those prices, you should be able to come up with a price range that you can then use as a guide.  For more on KBB, see an explanation of the KBB pricing or for more info on Edmunds pricing, see an explanation on Edmunds TMV or True Market Value.

Prior to the easy availability of the internet, used car buyers had to rely on Consumer Reports Magazine in order to find out the best and the worst of what was available. While a lot of information is now quickly accessible online, those seriously considering a used car purchase should buy this month’s (April 2009) Consumer Reports, the Annual Auto Issue, to get the real lowdown on the best of the best, and the worst of the worst.

The magazine puts out the most unbiased opinion of any information-gathering business. The company is not related in any way to anything in the automotive industry. No advertisements are allowed in any issue, further assuring the consumer that the information read in the magazine is as close to the truth as possible, without any gloss or wash.

The info has been broken down by vehicle type, best in price range, worst overall and more. The data was compiled from information obtained from their annual auto survey—and information was received on over 1,400,000 vehicles. The information on pre-owned vehicle covers those ten years and younger, from 1999-2008 and has been sorted into nine categories: small cars, sport cars, family cars, upscale cars, luxury cars, minivans, small and mid-large sized SUVs, and pickup trucks.

Best small cars were the Honda Civic, Toyota Echo, Scion xB, Toyota Corolla and Toyota Matrix, Subaru’s Impreza and Mazda Protégé also made the top ten, as did the Mazda 3. The only American car on the list was the Pontiac Vibe.

Honda topped the best family sized cars list with the Accord. Also on this list were Toyota’s Prius and Camry and American-made Ford Fusion and Mercury Milan.

Best minivans were the Toyota Sienna and the Honda Odyssey; while the best small SUV were also Toyota and Honda, with the RAV4 and the CR-V. Toyota dominated the ‘best of’ list for mid and large SUV’s with the Highlander, Land Cruiser, 4Runner and Sequoia. Also on the list were the Honda Pilot, Lexus’ RX and GX, Infiniti FX35 and QX4, amongst others.

Best resale sports car honors went to the Mazda Miata, best upscale and luxury vehicles were the Lexus ES and the Infiniti I30.

One interesting point made by Consumer Reports is that overall, problems on all used cars have decreased. This is welcome news for the buying public, which is turning more to pre-owned vehicles than ever before.

Any vehicle a buyer might be considering will certainly be somewhere in this report—it is certainly worth it to spend a few bucks at the news stand or on their website to save potentially thousands of dollars in repair bills down the road.

If you have a question you’d like our experts and community to answer, please ask your question at http://forum.iseecars.com.  To start your car search, visit http://www.iSeeCars.com to find over 2 million cars for sale across more than 11,000 websites.

Some interesting stats from this weekend’s New York Times article about the fact that American car owners are holding on to their cars more during this economic recession.

• The median age of cars on the road hit a record 9.4 years in 2008, up from 9.2 in 2006 and 2007

• The percentage of cars taken off the road decreased to 5.1 percent, from 5.5 percent in 2007

• In 2008, new car dealers known as Franchise dealers, obtained more used cars from auctions than any other channel such as trade-ins

• A R.L. Polk survey of car owners found that 64% of them were “very likely” or “extremely likely” to hold on to their car and 81% were going to take better care of their cars rather than buy another one

• JD Power & Associates survey of 10,000 dealerships found that reliable, fuel efficient cars such as 2004 Hyundai Elantra, 2003 Toyota Corolla and 2007 Honda Fit spent an average of less than 30 days on the used car lots before they were bought compared with an industry average of 57 days

• With declining gasoline prices, consumers have been eyeing bigger cars which have come down in prices much more than compact fuel efficient cars.  In the beginning of 2009, the 2006 Honda Pilot, 2006 BMW X5 and the 2006 Toyota 4Runner used or pre-owned cars were getting picked up the quickest

In this market, it seems consumers can get a good deal whether they’re looking for a used or new car.

What were you doing last summer when gas prices skyrocketed over four bucks a gallon? Did you walk more? Take the bus? Carpool? Did you ditch that big Hummer or Suburban in favor of a smaller, more fuel efficient car? Did you take it one step further and buy a hybrid like the Toyota Prius or the Honda Insight? If you agreed to that last one, you’re not alone. Apparently a lot of people went in that direction, and now that gas has evened out to around two bucks a gallon, this is causing problems on both the new and the resale side of the automobile business.

Last summer, the demand for hybrids was so high that in some instances, buyers were willing to pay new car prices for used hybrids. The production couldn’t keep up on new, and most dealerships were able to sell the hybrids that came in at well over MSRP.

Once America’s appetite for big gas-guzzling vehicles returned with the low gas prices, hybrids went out of vogue. According to Kelly Blue Book, the used car values on hybrids are down nearly 24% from where it was last year. This is a strange anomaly where used car values overall have been climbing.

Hybrid vehicles traditionally cost about $3,000 more than a similar non-hybrid. When gas was $4 a gallon, a consumer could have expected to recoup that extra three grand in gas savings in about three years. When gas prices fell to $2 a gallon, that same $3,000 extra could take almost ten years to recover. With consumer’s minds focused on the recession, most are not looking to the big picture, but for what it costs to buy now. Overall, the hybrid will still save money, but that idea is lost in the fact that the hybrid price is so much more expensive than a standard vehicle.

New car lots now have a glut of hybrids, and used car lots are experiencing the same problem. Last summer, the resale lots couldn’t get its hands on a hybrid; now it may very well refuse one on trade because it already has a surplus in inventory.

This surplus is a good thing for consumers. When the economy recovers, so will gas prices, and eventually two-bucks-a-gallon-gasoline will be a fondly remembered thing of the pass. For those that have been thinking about a hybrid, there’s no better time to buy, whether it be new or used. New cars no longer go for MSRP and above, and it shouldn’t be too hard to find a gently used one at a decent price. Consumers that have traded in their hybrids for a pickup will eventually be feeling the pinch again, while those that buy the hybrids now will be cruising right past the gas pumps.

It’s no longer a status factor to have newer and shinier, but to make do with what one has. Parts and service departments across the country are reporting good numbers as people chose to fix their current vehicles rather than trade out and into something new.

Taking this into consideration, there’s no better time to buy a new vehicle. February 2009 had the lowest prices and highest incentives in years. Both Chrysler and Hyundai offered the highest incentive levels ever, and the incentives offered were the highest in February ever for Ford, GM, Toyota and Honda.

Historically, it may be one of the best times to buy new, but more and more people are turning to used cars. In fact, according to a recent study by Edmunds.com showed that over half a million used cars sold in the past three months would have been new vehicle sales if the public wasn’t so worried about the economy..

Several factors are motivating this change, but the biggest one is the recession. Just a year or so ago, not only was everyone ‘keeping up with the Joneses’, they were trying to outdo their neighbors. A new car is a certain sign of success, and to many buyers it meant nothing to lose 25% or more depreciation in the first twelve months, as long as there was a new car in the driveway and it had all the latest technology. With the poor economy, buyers are now finding it more practical to let someone else pay the depreciation, and pre-owned vehicles are becoming a hot topic.

Another factor motivating the trend is the reliability of used cars. With the technology used on today’s cars, a used car buyer is no longer throwing money at an unknown. If the vehicle has enjoyed good care, and continues to be tended to, there’s no reason that any Honda or Toyota (or many American-made models, for that matter) cannot last well past the 200,000 mile mark. Certified pre-owned cars make it a safer bet to buy used, but many dealerships are seeing a request for used vehicles under $10,000.

What does this trend mean for the consumer? A person buying a used car may pay a little more for it now than he would have a year ago, but then again, trade-in prices on relatively late-model vehicles may increase as well, as the supply and demand of used cars continues to waver. It also means fantastic bargains for someone looking to buy new. Go ahead and trade in that used sedan and get a little more than normally offered, and buy a new vehicle with better incentives and lower process than ever before.

If you have a question you’d like our experts and community to answer, please ask your question at http://forum.iseecars.com.  To start your car search, visit http://www.iSeeCars.com to find over 2 million cars for sale across more than 11,000 websites.

The internet has completely changed the way we buy cars. Twenty years ago, if a person wanted to research new and used cars, he had to schlepp down to the library and pore over back issues of Consumer Digest magazine. There was no leisurely cup of coffee while perched behind a computer for guy that couldn’t decide between a Chevy, Ford or Toyota. No, he had to go pound the pavement, visiting dealer after dealer, being subjected to sales spiel after spiel. No wonder drivers used to keep their cars a lot longer: who would want to go through that rigmarole just to get a new family sedan?

The arrival of the internet has changed the way car dealerships work. Nothing is secret anymore – with a few clicks of a mouse a consumer can find out trade-in value, the MSRP (Manufacturer’s Suggested Retail Price) on the new vehicle, the best dealer, available rebates and more:

• Know how much the trade-in is worth. Because any used vehicle’s trade-in value is so subjective (due to varying conditions, equipment, mileage, pay-off amount, or even color of the vehicle) it’s easy to be taken advantage when it comes time to trade a car. Prior to the internet, it was almost impossible to get a valuation on a vehicle without going to a car dealer. Today, websites such as www.kbb.com or www.edmunds.com help keep consumers informed.
• Figure out what sort of payment the budget can handle. Before there were loan calculators, like the one found at www.bankrate.com , the rough rule of thumb was that for decent credit, a buyer would pay back about $20 a month for every thousand borrowed, and a person with poor credit would pay back about $25 per thousand. However, using this rough rule of thumb was just that: rough. A visit to this website allows consumers to plug in different factors, such as loan amount, length of loan, percentage points in order to find the payment most comfortable with.
• Know how much car qualified for. If you currently have a preferred bank, visit that lender’s website to pre-qualify the loan. If not, go to www.lendingtree.com where one simple application will be reviewed by several different lenders, and all will make loan offers. Research the lenders and make a decision as to which loan will cost the least amount of money.
• Looking to buy pre-owned instead of brand new? Websites such as www.autotrader.com allow consumers to see the cars dealers have for sale and classifieds sites like www.craigslist.com allow consumers to find cars for sale by private parties.  Recently, sites like this website (iSeeCars.com) provide a search engine like Google that lets consumers easily search for car classifieds posted on thousands of car sites, saving users time and helping them find great deals.
• An invaluable website that will assist on the mission of used car buying is www.carfax.com For a fee of $39.99, Carfax will run checks on the VIN (Vehicle identification Number) of an unlimited number of vehicles. This will give all sorts of information that the dealer would rather remain hidden: was it a fleet vehicle, how many owners has it had, what sort of repair work has been done, what is the true mileage, has it ever been water-damaged or in an accident.
• The website www.is-it-a-lemon.com will inform consumers if the make and model of any vehicle has a bad history. There are also links on this website to assist with insurance, extended warranties and more.
• Go to www.nhtsa.gov to check any vehicle to see if it has ever been involved in a recall. This is also a good precautionary check for used car buyers, simply to see if there might be inherent problems due to a previous recall.
• *Just how reliable and honest is the dealership you’re considering? Check out www.ripoffreport.com for comments about the business. This website gives a forum for customers to sound off about their bad experiences. Granted, no dealership is perfect, and there will always be disgruntled customers for one reason or another. However, if there is comment after comment, or if there appears to be a trend as to how a certain place treats their customers, perhaps it’s time to check out a different dealer.

So go pour a cup of coffee, turn on the computer, skip the hassle and buy your next car.

If you have a question you’d like our experts and community to answer, please ask your question at http://forum.iseecars.com.  To start your car search, visit http://www.iSeeCars.com to find over 2 million cars for sale across more than 11,000 websites.

NEW CAR TECHNOLOGY:

Some drivers want a new car every three years, so that they have all the latest technology, while other drivers buy a new car and then keep it until it falls apart. With a lease, the vehicle is always under three years old. With a purchase, the vehicle is eventually owned, but by the time it is paid off, there’s lots of new technology available.

PAYMENTS:

The payments on a lease will always be significantly less than the purchase payments on the same vehicle. On a lease, the driver pays for the part of the car used (depreciation) while on a purchase, payments are on the entire vehicle.

CREDIT:

Obtaining a loan on a vehicle purchase is far easier than getting a loan. Those with average or poor credit will most likely not qualify for a lease.

INITIAL OUT OF POCKET COSTS:

Leases only require the first month’s payment, first year license fee and perhaps a security deposit equal to one month’s payment. Buying a car, on the other hand, will generally require 10-20% of the vehicle’s price as a down payment.

INSURANCE:

It’s less expensive to insure a vehicle that’s being purchased, as insurance companies require higher minimums on leased cars.

WARRANTY:

If the lease term is 36 months, and the mileage limits are adhered to, the vehicle will always be under warranty– no unexpected repair bills. On a purchase, once the warranty is up, repair bills are the responsibility of the owner.

MILEAGE:

Buying the vehicle is the better decision if for those drive a lot. Most leases allow just 12,000 miles a year. If circumstances change during a lease and suddenly a leased car is driven significantly more, there will be a large over-mileage penalty after the lease ends.

TRADING OUT OF THE VEHICLE:

While a vehicle loses a lot of equity during the first two years, it’s still easier to trade out of a purchased vehicle. Once the car is 2/3 of the way paid off, it should be close to a break even proposition. A lease is impossible to break without taking a severe financial wallop.

PREPPING A VEHICLE FOR LEASE END/TRADE-IN

If a vehicle is being traded or sold, it’s not necessary to get every little last problem repaired. Not doing so will result in a lower selling price, but won’t cost anywhere near as much as the penalties faced by not fixing a lease d vehicle. Prior to turn-in, the lessee is responsible for even cosmetic problems, as the vehicle must be returned with only “reasonable wear and tear,” Missing knobs and hubcaps need to be replaced, dents and scratches repaired, over-worn tires and chipped windshields need replaced.

So, is leasing a car a good value? If you’re the type of driver that puts a lot of miles on your car, are rather lackadaisical about maintenance and repairs and don’t like the thought of not actually “owning” something, stay away from leasing. Drivers that tend to take good care of a vehicle, drive under 12,000 miles annually and like driving newer cars may be good leasing candidates.

If you have a question you’d like our experts and community to answer, please ask your question at http://forum.iseecars.com.  To start your car search, visit http://www.iSeeCars.com to find over 2 million cars for sale across more than 11,000 websites.

By Ali Koomen, who spent over a dozen years in the car dealership busines, provides her expert insights

“I know what you paid for that vehicle. . . ” or “Why don’t you dip into your holdbacks?”

There’s no other business where a buyer feels it is his right to know what the seller paid for the merchandise. Telling the dealership that it makes enough money on the holdbacks is just as presumptuous. Holdbacks help pay for costly advertising, and for flooring (interest paid to the manufacturer to have the vehicle on the lot) and other operating expenses.

Giving an ultimatum on price may come back to shoot you in the foot. The vehicle you just grandly offered to pay $200 over invoice for could be new to the lot and will most likely sell at MSRP or close to it, due to its desirability. On the other hand, you could be looking at a unit that has been there for months, the flooring on it has killed any chance of a good profit and all the dealer wants is to get the albatross off the lot. In a case like that, the manager may dip into the holdback, just to get rid of the vehicle.

Instead: Wait to see what the salesman’s response to the first offer is and take it from there.

“My payments cannot go any higher than $_______”

Payment shoppers are a salesman’s dream. It’s very easy to fit a vehicle to a payment by offering a different trim level, requiring more money down, changing the length or the terms of the loan, changing it from a purchase to a lease.

Instead: Don’t shop payments, shop the price of the vehicle. Go to www.bankrate.com and plug in terms, interest and price in order to find the payment desired; this will give a good indication of the price of the new vehicle you should be searching for. In other words, don’t look at a $30,000 truck if you need your payments under $300. . . .

“I’ve done my research!”

Most salesmen hate this declaration. So you’ve ‘done your homework.’ So what? The top three vehicle evaluation websites cannot agree on prices on identical vehicles. Besides, there’s a lot of misinformation on the internet, but a lot of people that have ‘done their research’ take it as gospel, when it should simply be points to ponder.

Instead: Don’t ever go into a dealership ‘unarmed’ , but keep in mind that not all information garnered online is correct. Use the info as a negotiation tool, not as something written in stone.

“I don’t have much time.”

A salesman might look at this as a challenge to keep you there long past your ‘deadline’. Or he may simply mentally dismiss you: why waste time talking to this guy when that couple over there looks ready to buy?

“I don’t have much time” is marginally better than the ubiquitous ‘I’m just looking’. No one goes into a dealership to while away the hours, everyone there is either gathering information with eventual intentions to buy, or wants to buy that day.

There is no ‘express route’ through the buying process. The salesman knows that it’s going to take time to show several vehicles, take one or two test drives, give his sales spiel, have the trade evaluated, negotiate the deal and put you into finance.

Instead: Let the salesman know that you’re there comparing his vehicle to a similar one in a different make, and there is no way you’ll buy until you’ve had a chance to test drive both. However, if you go with his vehicle, you will buy from him. Remember, vehicle salesmen work on commission only, and as long as he thinks there’s a chance he’ll get you to eventually buy, he won’t begrudge the time spent assisting you.

“I see that $30,000 vehicle there and I am willing to offer $18,000 on it” (or some other such ridiculous quote)

The salesman’s knee-jerk reaction will be “Don’t waste my time!” and he is right. Starting the negotiations at an impossible price just lets him know that you’re a jerk, or that you haven’t done even the slightest bit of research beforehand. Either scenario is going to start you off on the wrong foot.

Instead: Serious buyers should visit www.edmunds.com to get the TMV (True Market Value) and use the price given there as a negotiation tool. If the TMV on that $30,000 vehicle is $28,100, offer $27K. You’re not going to get it at that price, but a sound offer will correctly get the negotiation ball rolling.

If you have a question you’d like our experts and community to answer, please ask your question at http://forum.iseecars.com.  To start your car search, visit http://www.iSeeCars.com to find over 2 million cars for sale across more than 11,000 websites.

By Ali Koomen, who spent over a dozen years in the car dealership busines, provides her expert insights

So what is good credit? Most lenders consider a Fair Isaac Score of 700 or better as good, but some of the too-good-to-be-true finance offers (no payments for 6 months, 2.9% financing, etc) require scores of even 720 and higher. A buyer with a 700+ should be able to get very competitive rates, but don’t assume that the buyer will automatically qualify for the best rate. The higher the percentage the F&I (the Finance & Insurance dept at a car dealership) manager can sell the loan for, the more money he makes. So he may get the loan bought at 8%, yet tell the buyer it is 9%. To avoid this trick, check with a preferred lender first to see the loan amount and percentage rate qualified for. If the interest rate offered is a mere half-percent less than what the dealer offers, it will still save a little over $200 over the life of the loan (assuming a 60 month loan on $15,000.)

Buyers with fair credit (in the 600’s) are often made to feel like the dealership’s F&I department is doing a marvelous favor by finding a lender. These buyers will often sign on the dotted line without doing the research. It makes no sense to fight furiously for the very best price on a new vehicle, then glibly accept what the finance department says is ‘the best finance rate, considering your credit score.’

The local credit union usually offers very competitive rates compared to the regular banks, and will often extend loans to its members that couldn’t get done at a conventional lender.

Buyers with poor credit (under 600) are not in a position to shop around for a loan, and the finance manager knows this. Paying a higher interest rate is a given, but signing a loan with rates bordering on usury is not. Walk away from a loan that isn’t fair. It’s far easier to continue to ride the bus than it is to pay an interest rate that will have the car upside down the entire life of the loan.

Try not to fall victim to the buy-here-pay-here lots. Buy-here-pay-here is really a misnomer, because the loan is not through the dealer but through a sub-prime lender. BHPH lots generally require payments every other week, which means a buyer will make the equivalent of thirteen car payments in a year, instead of the standard twelve. The vehicles in inventory at BHPH lots tend to be higher mileage and rougher-around-the-edges. Most BHPH lots do not have service technicians, so once the car is detailed, it’s thrown onto the lot and good luck to the buyer.

First-time buyers (no credit) might actually consider a new car. The big lenders (GMAC, FMC, etc) often give incentives to first time buyers, especially to recent college grads. The interest rate is better than most other lenders, and if the car breaks down, it’s under warranty-no unexpected repair bills!

While a buyer’s credit score determines the interest rate and terms offered on a loan, the most important thing for any person attempting to buy a car is that the dealership and the lender need you to remain in business.

If you have a question you’d like our experts and community to answer, please ask your question at http://forum.iseecars.com.  To start your car search, visit http://www.iSeeCars.com to find over 2 million cars for sale across more than 11,000 websites.

By Ali Koomen, who spent over a dozen years in the car dealership busines, provides her expert insights

Once you’ve made the decision to sell your current vehicle, the first thing to do is to completely empty the vehicle of all personal belongings. Be sure to check under the seats, inside the doors, glovebox and trunk. Take an honest evaluation of the vehicle, paying close attention to first impressions. If you’re noticing a flaw, so will the buyer.

Gather all receipts to show what work has been done on the vehicle and to prove that the car has enjoyed routine maintenance. If it’s a newer vehicle that’s had all work done at the dealership, your service advisor should be able to give you a print-out of the service record.

The five best places to spend money repairing and replacing are as follows:

TIRES. . .Insert a penny upside-down between two treads. If any of Lincoln’s head is visible, the tires are worn. Replace the tires with the least expensive ones available. Even if the buyer plans to buy fancier tires, if the ones that are on the car are in good shape, he cannot expect the $200-400 discount he would if the tires are in worn condition.

GLASS. . .If the windshield is cracked and your insurance covers the replacements, get it taken care of before putting it on sale, or expect an immediate $500 discount request from buyers. If the glass has been chipped, have it chip-repaired and keep the receipt to show the buyer that it’s not going to segue into a full blown crack any time soon.

MISSING/WORN PARTS. . . Hubcaps, antennas, mirrors, floor mats, windshield wipers, knobs for the radio, gearshift and the like can all go missing or become over-worn. Some buyers will look for any excuse to talk the price down. Making minor replacements like those listed above need not be over-costly, and paying attention to small details like this can help earn more money on the sale.

MINOR DENTS and SCRATCHES. . . Don’t attempt to paint-match scratches. It is next to impossible to find the exact color, and if the vehicle is not buffed immediately afterward, the touch-up will be noticeable. If the car only has one or two very minor dents, it can probably be left as is, but more than that may call for a visit to a paintless dent repair shop. Repairmen use suction cups and soft hammers to pop the dent out at a cost that is significantly lower than an auto-body repair shop might charge.

CLEANING AND DETAILING. . . After all the cosmetic flaws have been repaired or replaced, have the car detailed inside and out. If the vehicle has a large engine that is part of the selling point, have the engine professionally steam cleaned, too.

When the vehicle is show-worthy, visit a website like www.kbb.com or www.edmunds.com for a suggestion of what the vehicle is worth (for tips on how to use KBB or Edmunds, see KBB price explained and Edmunds price explained). Compare these prices with those in recent classified ads (search for similar cars on sites like iSeeCars.com to get an idea of what sellers are asking for), and you should be able to come up with a fair and profitable selling price for your vehicle.

If you have a question you’d like our experts and community to answer, please ask your question at http://forum.iseecars.com.  To start your car search, visit http://www.iSeeCars.com to find over 2 million cars for sale across more than 11,000 websites.

By Ali Koomen, who spent over a dozen years in the car dealership busines, provides her expert insights

Where do resale lots obtain inventory?

Both the corner used car lot guy and the big resale lot attached to a new car dealership get vehicles via trade-ins, fleet/lease returns, auto auctions and individual sales.

The trades that are taken in by a new car dealership tend to be nicer, late model vehicles. Those that are not in good shape are wholesaled out, and those cars often end up at auction, where the corner lot guys may buy the vehicles. The used car lots take in older units on trade, and many are not suitable for resale.

The big dealer has more capital available than the corner guy, and better connections. When a fleet turn-in comes available, the big guy can say, “Sure, I’ll take all ten of those Malibus.” Meanwhile, the little guy has to be content with buying a few cars at a time, and doesn’t get the financial breaks the bigger dealer would.

The small lots are often approached by individual sellers, and some small lots obtain some of their inventory by chasing the classified ads, whereas the large dealer simply does not have the time to obtain inventory piecemeal.

Is there a better deal to be had at a small lot or a big one?

While the big guy probably paid less for the same vehicle, the asking price is generally higher than the little lot. Of course, when the deal is negotiated, that will help make it appear as if the buyer got a smoking deal.

The resale lots at large dealerships run by the same credo as the new lot does. Hammer the sale, don’t let the buyer get away, push, push, push. That’s not to say that the salesmen at the little lots aren’t going to be pushy, but most of them tend to have a little more ‘good ole boy’ personality than the slick larger lots do. At the large lot, you’re dealing with a salesman, who reports to a manager, who reports to a GM, who reports to an owner/corporation board. On a small lot, the guy that is selling you the car could very well be the owner of the place.

What about finance?

The big dealers have a lot more lending sources at their disposal, but the small lots often specialize in secondary financing (for those with bad credit). However, beware those lots that advertise “buy here, pay here”. That does not mean the friendly owner is financing the purchase out of his back pocket. What it does mean is that the lot is contracted to use a particular secondary lender, one whose interest rates are ridiculous. Often, the BHPH lots require a payment to be made every other week, which means in a twelve-month period the buyer will be making two more payments than he would have with conventional financing. When a car is financed with a BHPH lot, the buyer is on a very short leash, and woe betide one who misses a payment. The BHPH lenders tend to do repossessions a lot quicker than some of the larger banks and lenders.

What about service/warranty work?

The large dealer has the advantage here. Most corner lots don’t have a service department, or if it does, only limited work can be done there. The large lots have comprehensive service areas available, making it easy to have warranty work done by certified mechanics.

If you have a question you’d like our experts and community to answer, please ask your question at http://forum.iseecars.com.  To start your car search, visit http://www.iSeeCars.com to find over 2 million cars for sale across more than 11,000 websites.